Ran Stiletto with the 42 X 55 grim sharp/balanced today. OMG! super fast - I would guess around 40mph w/o gps. This boat rocks. Thanks again Darin for the info.
Stiletto First Run w/New Boat
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I wana see more vids!
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
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Interesting, I got a Grim 40x52/3 yesterday at the LHS, can't wait to try that one on...Originally posted by Darin Jordan View PostIf you are talking about the stock prop, then certainly... it wasn't designed to go much faster with that prop...
Put an X440/3 or Grim 42x55 on there, perhaps with a little pitch added, and then hang on!
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used a 440/3 and noticabley faster but wires got warm and one even unsoldered itself but they were the ones i did so could be anything lol......really couldnt tell the temp as waited 30 min for boat to come drifting back to shore...even had to wade to get it finally....batteries were slighly warm to the touch but did run 5 min or so....the batteries were stacked on top of each other in front of bat compartment wire that was touching the plastic top peace did form slight indention lol......oh well back to drawing board or the soldering iron.....MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...
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Battery or motor side?Originally posted by ron1950 View Postused a 440/3 and noticabley faster but wires got warm and one even unsoldered itself but they were the ones i did so could be anything lol......really couldnt tell the temp as waited 30 min for boat to come drifting back to shore...even had to wade to get it finally....batteries were slighly warm to the touch but did run 5 min or so....the batteries were stacked on top of each other in front of bat compartment wire that was touching the plastic top peace did form slight indention lol......oh well back to drawing board or the soldering iron.....
Never mind, I've re-read your message... :)
What connectors are you using?
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When I'm recommending props like this, I'm recommending them for RACING applications. As such, you sport boaters need to keep in mind that a race only runs for about a 1 1/2 minutes or so, and mostly at full throttle (even in the turns). Sport running with these setups will likely cause the boat to get warmer.Originally posted by ron1950 View Postused a 440/3 and noticabley faster but wires got warm and one even unsoldered itself but they were the ones i did so could be anything lol......really couldnt tell the temp as waited 30 min for boat to come drifting back to shore...even had to wade to get it finally....batteries were slighly warm to the touch but did run 5 min or so....the batteries were stacked on top of each other in front of bat compartment wire that was touching the plastic top peace did form slight indention lol......oh well back to drawing board or the soldering iron.....
Also, my 440/3 is back-cut about .030" and detounged slightly, so it doesn't have the blade area, lift, or blade loading that a stock one would.
Keep an eye on things when trying these setups and build up to them...Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
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Hahahaha... Yah... FE isn't for everyone, that's for sure.Originally posted by ron1950 View Postone and a half minetes....heck i am going back to gas
You can run longer... just have to prop down for this setup.Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
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With the X440 (2 blades) I can go to LVC and the wires get to ~120F at the end, heatsink on the ESC is ~100F and caps are about ~130F.Originally posted by ron1950 View Postdeans but thinking of going to plugs
This is with 2x 2S 5300mah Turnigy hardcase (these are really 2S2P 2650mah) mounted vertically in front, side to side.
I'm using 5.5mm bullets on the batt side, I still need to change the motor side.
I should make a hole on the motor cowl to check the temp, but I don't want to ruin the look...
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You'll have a lot less resistance going to 5.5's instead of those Deans... In fact, I usually cut off the Y-harness, and just use the red and black wire, then series together the batteries themselves. Any resistance you can eliminate will mean more runtime and less heat.Originally posted by ron1950 View Postdeans but thinking of going to plugs
On the motor wires, if they are getting warm, you might want to open up the front of the motor cover some to allow more air to circulate around the motor. I did this on mine and it helped a lot.Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
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know what ya mean on the look if i wanted to run a ugly looking pos id run nitro....hey darin what is it in fe racing...first one to 3 laps wins?......so what about a x642/2 will that brin temps down?MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...
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i have a large round hole in the front of the motor cover as i put the water outlet from a bj26 in the back of the motor case like u did....usually i just flip the boat and cool the motor that way...oh ya the voltage on each cell was 3.85 or so so couldnt ahve run that long....MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...
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Try the 642. It should be a little better on temps.Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
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