Your MG that started off as a hull

[macdon]

Not to toot my own whistle but i just did this proline body for my slash 4x4,, not to bad for my second time using an airbrush, i did all the foxracing logos and all the body painting, the rest is just stickers,,,
Macdon im liking yours waybetter maybe i should just toss the inner lid so one of yours would fit!!

Great job on the airbrush! One of the designs I wanted to do via airbrush is the "aliens" theme - but I highly doubt if I have the skill.

If you're still using the stock plastic MG canopy, then you would need that tupperware inner lid ............. but if you score a fiberglass canopy, then you can toss out the inner lid.
I'll be developing the turbine canopy this weekend.

[tagasagwan]

Not to toot my own whistle but i just did this proline body for my slash 4x4,, not to bad for my second time using an airbrush, i did all the foxracing logos and all the body painting, the rest is just stickers,,,
Macdon im liking yours waybetter maybe i should just toss the inner lid so one of yours would fit!!

Bravo! Great job Jerry! If you didn't mentioned that it's only your 2nd paint job, I would thought you've been doing it for a while. Have you tried using waterslide? It's a cheat we do to get a replica grade paint job at lightning speed. Hehehe! You print the resolution photo of the design on waterslide sheet then slowly stick them to the inner surface of the lexan body then spray paint the back with your base color. It's like sticking a decal inside your lexan body.

[macdon]

Here's a cleaned-up version of the MG turbine version that Im currently developing.

Kindly give your feedback or any negative reaction .........Lol!

[tagasagwan]

Here's a cleaned-up version of the MG turbine version that Im currently developing.

Kindly give your feedback or any negative reaction .........Lol!

My 2 cents! Use a smoked plexiglass as windshield about 3-5mm thick and use fiberglass resin to hold it firm. Then get those tiny 1 x 7mm stainless Allen cup-head bolts as rivets. It's not only cosmetics but, it actually adds extra support to hold your plexiglass!

[ecoovert]

Thanks Mardon, My dad Uses his paint gun for lots of things, most recently to paint the shed. As to the reverse effect it would seem that all I would have to do is do everything in reverse order and sand between each coat. It does appear that I also would have to aply a clearcoat as well. I do understand how moving the spray farther away will make for a lighter coat. I also understand that parts of the body or hull that have deep impressions or stick out will effect how much paint will land on that surface. If you look at the photos of my E-Revo you'll see that effect. Though unintended I happen to like this effect. On the E-Revo I started with red then went to yellow then black and last metalic blue for the windows. I used 3 light coats for each color. This is a 1/16 scale body so it's about the same sise as the MG canopy. There is some speckling visible but it isn't all that bad. I trust with an airbrush the speckling will not be as much of an issue.

Talk to you soon my friend.

[srislash]

Hi Eco,I read you were contemplating clear on one of your posts.Here's my 2 cents U-POL,U-POL,U-POL.Clear #1.It rocksSeems to go well with most paints.Just thought I'd throw that in.

[srislash]

Here's a cleaned-up version of the MG turbine version that Im currently developing.

Kindly give your feedback or any negative reaction .........Lol!

Seriously Macdon!! Maybe I can match my current paint.That looks awesome!! I love the windsheild.How much you gonna send me one for.
You can see my matching dilemma
Goodpics 003.jpg
And Eco that the clear on there.

[macdon]

Thanks Mardon, My dad Uses his paint gun for lots of things, most recently to paint the shed. As to the reverse effect it would seem that all I would have to do is do everything in reverse order and sand between each coat. It does appear that I also would have to aply a clearcoat as well. I do understand how moving the spray farther away will make for a lighter coat. I also understand that parts of the body or hull that have deep impressions or stick out will effect how much paint will land on that surface. If you look at the photos of my E-Revo you'll see that effect. Though unintended I happen to like this effect. On the E-Revo I started with red then went to yellow then black and last metalic blue for the windows. I used 3 light coats for each color. This is a 1/16 scale body so it's about the same sise as the MG canopy. There is some speckling visible but it isn't all that bad. I trust with an airbrush the speckling will not be as much of an issue.

Talk to you soon my friend.

Oh thats great then - so your dad already has a compressor?
You doing the tri-color fading of red, orange & yellow?
I'd trace the footprint of the canopy in any scratch materials - paper, cardboard, etc. and practice your fading technique. Let your hand muscles memorize the strokes over and over using the scratch materials.
For 3 colors, I would make an imaginary line to divide the length of the canopy in 3 parts. I'd start off with the yellow for the rear - starting from its imaginary line with an up stroke going to the rear, then orange in the middle with the up stroke then finally the red color from the front of the canopy and an up stroke going to the middle.
Just practice first with the paper or smooth cardboard.
Once you're confident with your practice - then do the same method with your actual canopy.

[macdon]

Seriously Macdon!! Maybe I can match my current paint.That looks awesome!! I love the windsheild.How much you gonna send me one for.
You can see my matching dilemma
[ATTACH=CONFIG]65815[/ATTACH]
And Eco that the clear on there.

That is an incredible paint job! Wow! If that was mine, i'd put that up for display and get myself a regular Geico to run with my club!

Gimme a few days to further develop the canopy then I'll post the final mock-up - if you guys like it and want a copy then I'll have it molded.

[HYDROJERRY]

Macdon that hatch in post 213 is the one, with the smoked windsheild and rivets is sweet.

[ecoovert]

Thanks srislash, I was hoping someone would point me in the right direction when it came to clear coat.

[ecoovert]

Thanks Stephen, I am known to be quite the perfectionist so you can rest assured I will follow your directions when it comes to preping my canopy. As to protective gear I guess it's similar to balancing and sharpening beryllium props. Even on my truck bodies I use multiple light coats. I do understand that I would have to apply the paint in reverse order. I also understand that the paint will not be uniform in the areas where there are depressions or elevated portions such as the air intakes on the MG canopy. You can see this on my E-Revo photos. To be honest, I kind of like that effect. Also note that that's a 1/16 scale body so working with a small canopy such as the Mg canopy shouldn't be a problem. Reas assured I'll practice on other oddly shaped objects I don't care about first.

Thanks again Stephen.

[ecoovert]

I agree. That's an awsome paint job srislash.

[tagasagwan]

You're welcome Eric! Glad to give a fellow Boater a hand.

That's one nice paint job Srilash!

[tagasagwan]

double post