NEW Proboat 24 cat problem...

[SweetZ28]

Thanks PM sent

[SweetZ28]

Hi SJFE One good ? how do i get the old brass pipe out off the hull? and also if it did come out would't i have to install a larger brass pipe?
If so it will be impossible with this hull it's sealed inside you cant access the pipe?

[Rex R]

some pictures of the current driveline would be helpful. also what is the hull made of? hmmm lets see...oh right, are you going to keep this motor and please if poss get a good measurement of the current driveshaft dia.

[SweetZ28]

Hi it looks like 3mm on my mic ... the 550 motor side was to big and the shaft side for the long rod was to small to fit on the 550 4mm motor shaft.
here is alot of pic's of the boat

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRB3400

[Rex R]

If it were mine and if I were to keep the same motor...I think I would try a 0.098 flex shaft w/ liner. it might just fit in the stock tube.

[SweetZ28]

Hi Rex i think this may slip straight into the stock brass tube...this is a flex cable right?
Could you run these in brass tubing?
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=hug-e1068

Rex that .98 might be a good idea...but i wonder what the total OD is with the teflon tube on the flex cable?

[Steven Vaccaro]

How long is the coupler? I have 1/8" to 3mm straight couplers instock. Maybe if its to long I can cut it for you. I cant see how the coupler can be 1/4" out of whack. Can it be something else?

[Rex R]

yes one could run that cable(.13") w/o a liner...but it is likely to not fit your stuffing tube.
if it is that far out then I would think that something is bent.

[SweetZ28]

Thanks guy's
I am going to have to take her apart and get some measurments of the shaft size.
Steve the whole set up is so cheap the long rod they use looks so poorly made that the ends of it where they supposed to have a flat spot ground on them looks so junky it looks like they had guy's on a assembly line grind a quick spot on them with a big grinding wheel the cut out on the shaft is so un even and crooked it's not funny.. poor quality for sure.... If i can get a flex unit to fit inside the standard brass pipe it will be my best bet ....I will need to mic the inside diameter of the stuffing tube and maybe you can get me some measurments of the .98 flex shaft with the outer teflon tub on the total OD of the teflon tube ...maybe i can stuff that in the stock tube and run the .98 in side it... or maybe go with the 125 flex shaft if i could run it inside the stock tube without the teflon tube?

[Steven Vaccaro]

outside of the .098 telfon measures .145
Outside of the .130 teflon measures about .200
Now both of those measurements are not exact. Teflon varies in sizes.

[SweetZ28]

Steve i just did a measurment looks like 3mm the stuffing tube what can i do?

[Steven Vaccaro]

3mm is about .120. The stuffing tube looks much larger in the pictures.
Is the shaft 3mm running in bushings with a larger outer tube? Or is the inner diameter of the stuffing tube 3mm all the way to the transom?

[Diegoboy]

Sorry for the delay guys. My ISP had the neighborhood out of service all day for an "upgrade"
Anyway, Here's the mod I did to the Pro Boat BJ, & Pro Boat Mini-V. Would have done the SW26 if I didn't get the Jet drive...
This is going to be difficult to explain since I have never seen the apache.

*Note: I didn't pull the stuffing tube on the BJ because it was already the right size!

Parts list:
.130 flex shaft with 3/16 stub shaft (.098 - 1/8 for the Mini-V)
#130 Brass tube (7/32 x .014) <-- Strut bushings
1/4 brass tube <--Stuffing tube
Octura Coupler Flex Hex 5mm to .130 Cable Short <-- Brushless motor
-----> or <-----
Octura Coupler Flex Hex 1/8" to .130 Cable <-- Stock motor
Sleeve retainer like loctite 603 (If you don't buy the assembled flex cable)
7/32 drill bit
1/4 drill bit


Instructions:
Pull out the Motor
Pull out the drive shaft
Remove the strudder
Using needle nose pliers, Grab the stuffing tube in the boat, and twist to free it from the silicone or epoxy holding it in place. If it widens the opening in the transom a bit, don't worry because the new tube will be a bit bigger.
Pull the stuffing tube out through the back of the boat after it breaks loose.
Drill the transom hole for the tube with the 1/4 bit
Drill the other end with the 1/4 bit also
Cut the 1/4 tube to the same length as the stock tube removed
Install the 1/4 tube in the hull, Use epoxy to hold it in place
Remove the brass bushings from the strudder (short piece at each end)
Drill the strudder with the 7/23 bit.
Measure and cut the 7/32 tube to the length of the strudder (1 piece)
Install the 7/32 tube in the strudder
Assemble the flex shaft (if needed)
Install the teflon liner in the stuffing tube, cut to length (to the back end of the strudder)
Grease and install the flex cable in the boat
Couple it to your motor that I forgot to tell you to install.
Add a prop... I think you can take it from there.

[SweetZ28]

Steve i think it's 3mm all the way through...will have to check again..

[Doozie870]

Z28, I mainly run solid shaft boats, even with perfect alignment and ball bearing support I have never been able to direct couple the drive shaft to the motor without vibration, lots of it. My Mhz flash would almost jump off the table when i first ran it.. Assuming the shaft is straight (pull it and roll on a smooth surface) you may be able to get some of the thump out by loosening and rotating the coupler 1/8 turn on both shafts, do a bench test, you should find out quickly if your going the right way, then tweek it with smaller changes, down to just the motor side then the shaft side, until you find the sweet spot. Its going to be a on going issue everytime you hit something. If you cannot get a coupler with some give between the motor and shaft, a small flex cable system would be great also.