Sealing without Tape: Whose acheived this?

[metoo]

I can see using tape everytime I wanna get close the hatch be coming a major pain. Has anyone come up with a better solution for this boat than tape? I have some ideas, but if someone has a proven alternative method, I'd like to see it.

Here is one idea involving foam rubber around the inside of the hatch, extending just a bit below the hatch. The foam is tapered on the ID. A wooden frame is glued to the hull matching the ID of the hulls opening. The frame has a chamfered outer edge. The frame is spray/brush sealed and sanded smooth. I haven't put much thought into the fastening aspect yet.

[egneg]

I used foam tape in a similar manner on a Campbell vintage hydro. It took 8 screws to keep the hatch tight. Much easier to tape than to remove and install all those screws.

[rscheffer]

Due to the lack of stifnes, large deck openings and the large forces during an impackt with crashes ist nearly im possible to get a water tight fit without tape .
Same reason why only tape is not the safest way to scure large hatches , in a hard impact the tape can easely be blown away/lose
There for i always secure the hatch with bolds in the corners and tape to make it water tight.
The issue with tape always comes up ones in a while , but it still by far the best insurance for you electical equipment.

[Fluid]

If the OP searched he'd find a lot of discussion on this topic. The short answer is that for 90% of FE boaters, tape is the way to go if you want the best chances of dry electronics. Drying out and/or buying new electronics is a lot harder than putting on a few strips of tape...

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape




.

[metoo]

If the OP searched he'd find a lot of discussion on this topic. The short answer is that for 90% of FE boaters, tape is the way to go if you want the best chances of dry electronics. Drying out and/or buying new electronics is a lot harder than putting on a few strips of tape...

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape




.

The OP looked at every post in THIS forum. Seeing as how the question is Revolt specific and this was in none of the thread titles, a new thread was warranted. Other boats have different hatch geometries, latch, etc., and sealing methods followed by tape as a seal. The Revolt has tape only.

[Fluid]

Don't worry, I won't be bothering you again with an attemp at helping a newbie.


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[metoo]

Due to the lack of stifnes, large deck openings and the large forces during an impackt with crashes ist nearly im possible to get a water tight fit without tape .

That, I didn't think of. Thanks. Good point.

[BHChieftain]

If the OP searched he'd find a lot of discussion on this topic. The short answer is that for 90% of FE boaters, tape is the way to go if you want the best chances of dry electronics. Drying out and/or buying new electronics is a lot harder than putting on a few strips of tape...

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=tape




.

Ha! I was about to say "Fluid, WHERE ARE YOU"!

Chief

[Grimracer]

Do ya know why I design these with tape hatches? Give yourself some time in this hobby and you will have your answer to your question.. I TRULY am making your life EASYER! Dont question it.. ENJOY IT!

Grim

[dirtnsnowrider]

Do ya know why I design these with tape hatches? Give yourself some time in this hobby and you will have your answer to your question.. I TRULY am making your life EASYER! Dont question it.. ENJOY IT!

Grim

I thank you for consideration and so does my wallet.

[Cooper]

I agree, tape is the time tested (almost ) fool proof way to go. I've built a few cats with foam seals but they are bolted down as they were saw cats. Even then when a high speed crash happens the hull, hatch can and will flex and allow a high pressure squirt of water in (in the throws of a flip or tumble). But tape can also peal off in a high speed crash as well. The bolts take some time as tape can come off in a hurry if need be (something cooking). As Grimm said its a tried and true method, I just use electrical tape, cheep and stretches.

[tlandauer]

I agree, tape is the time tested (almost ) fool proof way to go. I've built a few cats with foam seals but they are bolted down as they were saw cats. Even then when a high speed crash happens the hull, hatch can and will flex and allow a high pressure squirt of water in (in the throws of a flip or tumble). But tape can also peal off in a high speed crash as well. The bolts take some time as tape can come off in a hurry if need be (something cooking). As Grimm said its a tried and true method, I just use electrical tape, cheep and stretches.

Tape is actually simple and practical, it may not be an elegant solution from an engineering point of view, but it works!
I also like every day electrical tape, I don't care if the color doesn't match, it you can see that then your boat is REALLY slow. lol... I shy away from the cheapest Chinese ones but mid point price ones are OK, the good 3M stuff may be again too sticky and tend to lift decal/paint too easily.
I also think these tape do the least amount of damage to paint and decal. Next I use Hockey tape, they are stronger, thicker but can lift decal and paint if you are in a hurry.

[martin]

I also swear by electrical tape costing a fraction of the various water proof tapes around, if you run a lot then this saves a fortune using electrical tape. I also will not just tape hatches on as ive seen to many hatches come of, I use positive fixings that are easy to undo ie 1 or 2 pins at the front of the hatch & a single vertical bolt that is sealed at the rear & taping all round the hatch.

[dirtnsnowrider]

I like to use clear packing tape. It leaves no residue when you peel it off and it has not come off even when I have had some bad crashes. I like it mainly because it is a lot thicker than traditional hatch tape, hockey tape and electrical tape. The tape holds up well being underwater as long as it is applied to a dry hull. I also tend to paint my boats and that alone has made my lid fit a lot tighter now where it has a snug fit. Rolls of this tape run about 2.69 and last me quite a while.

[Heaving Earth]

I also swear by electrical tape costing a fraction of the various water proof tapes around, if you run a lot then this saves a fortune using electrical tape. I also will not just tape hatches on as ive seen to many hatches come of, I use positive fixings that are easy to undo ie 1 or 2 pins at the front of the hatch & a single vertical bolt that is sealed at the rear & taping all round the hatch.

+1 on that