Is there a thread on fixing the turnfin crack? If not can someone give me a idea on whats worked to fix it. Thanks
Turnfin
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There are some that have used epoxy with a syringe in the screw holes but I opted for Darin's remedy which I think is the strongest and best solution.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=6249
Note: The shape of the ply insert may change depending on how the FG is layed out inside the sponson.IMPBA 20481S D-12
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I hate to state this. Aquacraft brought the best designed RTR hull to the market with the UL-1 but their manufacturing quality control leaves a lot to be desired.
DouggieLast edited by Flying Scotsman; 03-11-2009, 06:37 PM.
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I would like to add some additional food for thought on this whole fixing of the turn fin area.
Keep in mind that a larger mounting plate (on the inside) is only part of the equation. Not only do you want to increase the surface area that is bonding to the sponson transom, but you want to also tie in the sponson transom and the sponson ride pad. The intersection of the sponson transom (surface that the turn fin bracket is mounted on) and the sponson rid pad are at a 90 degree angle, you want to try and form a fillet or a chamfer in that corner that will tie the 2 surfaces together and make it much stronger.
If you only put in a new threaded plate you will be helping by spreading out the load. However, you still run the chance of the hull cracking at the corner of the sponson transom and the sponson bottom.
Does that make sense?
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One word...YESOriginally posted by longballlumber View PostI would like to add some additional food for thought on this whole fixing of the turn fin area.
Keep in mind that a larger mounting plate (on the inside) is only part of the equation. Not only do you want to increase the surface area that is bonding to the sponson transom, but you want to also tie in the sponson transom and the sponson ride pad. The intersection of the sponson transom (surface that the turn fin bracket is mounted on) and the sponson rid pad are at a 90 degree angle, you want to try and form a fillet or a chamfer in that corner that will tie the 2 surfaces together and make it much stronger.
If you only put in a new threaded plate you will be helping by spreading out the load. However, you still run the chance of the hull cracking at the corner of the sponson transom and the sponson bottom.
Does that make sense?
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Guys don't get this post wrong, I am not knocking Aquacraft I just want to make a point. I agree with Douggie about the manufacturing quality control issue and it is a shame because it is making for a lot of disappointed people when they expect to be able to take a RTR boat right out of the box and to the pond without having to make repairs first. Well, now does RTR really mean Ready to Repair.....LOLOriginally posted by Flying Scotsman View PostI hate to state this. Aquacraft brought the best designed RTR hull to the market with the UL-1 but their manufacturing quality control leaves a lot to be desired.
Douggie
I own two of the UL-1's and I love them and think they are a great boat. Considering all the quality issues Aquacraft had with the early SV's I would have thought they would have kept a close eye on quality.
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One more thought to add to the repair. My last incident shows that the sponson repairs I did were ok for the end and bottom which is where I ran my epoxy after I squirted it into the bolt holes, but now it's fractured the hull beyond those repairs along the outside of the sponson from bottom to top. If I were to do it again I would reinforce the entire back half of the sponson back, bottom and sides.
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