New to theUL-1 and boating.

[stelerzman]

No problem. You can wax the top and sides if you want just not the bottom. As for the servo hone mine is on the 3rd one from the screw, and about 1/4'" of throw maybe a little more but it does not take much.

Nice, thanks. I'll check it out.

[SirBudman32]

You can get a nice and straight piece of wood with some 500 grit sand paper and true them up if you want. Try to get a block that will cover both at the same time.

[stelerzman]

Cool, I'll do that. Any idea how thick the hull is in that area? I don't want to take too much off and make it a weak point.

[SirBudman32]

not sure.

[stelerzman]

I guess I'll just drill a hole in the bottom of both the sponsons and measure it, then repair it.

[wayne middlemiss]

warning they are very thin would be best to use light ply and filler.

[Heaving Earth]

Considering its a 3 point hydro, and the transom doesn't really ride in the water, what is the concern?

[stelerzman]

Considering its a 3 point hydro, and the transom doesn't really ride in the water, what is the concern?

As you stated" a 3 piont hydro". Then why is it that most of the info I'm getting kinda goes away from this factor. Thank you HE, your the first to post this very important info. I've talked to several local 1:1 boat builders with a " BOAT " load of knowledge and they are the only ones to hit on this piont.
Major " PROPS " to you Bro.

[stelerzman]

Another question, how accurate is this hull compared to a current 1:1 boat.
Also, any way to know the age of the boat I currently have??????


Thank you to everyone that has posted info for me to absorb and work with. You are all top notch people for helping the new guy. Major PROPS.

[stelerzman]

Well, the weekend is almost here, I can't wait.

When I measure the strut depth, which is 7/8" to the bottom of the drive cable sleeve. Is this the correct place ?
Thanks.

[Doby]

Probably not a bad place to start...but you will only find the true sweet spot once you run it and tinker with all the adjustments...remember, when you start tuning things, only do one thing at a time, that way if something works better (or worse) you will know what you did.

[Doby]

Another question, how accurate is this hull compared to a current 1:1 boat.
Also, any way to know the age of the boat I currently have??????


Thank you to everyone that has posted info for me to absorb and work with. You are all top notch people for helping the new guy. Major PROPS.

As to the age of your boat, the first release had some issue with the turn fin mounting area not being strong enough and cracking, also the controller had smaller capacitors installed and sometimes failed.

Post a pic of the controller, that will help determine if you have the older version or the newer version of the UL-1 (assuming that the controller is the stock one that came with the boat originally, and wasn't swapped out)

[stelerzman]

I
Ok, I'll leave it as is and see what happens. I've been in the RC world for about 5 years and quickly found out the importance of changing one thing at a time to see the difference. I've also learned that taking notes is very important. Come on weekend.

[stelerzman]

As to the age of your boat, the first release had some issue with the turn fin mounting area not being strong enough and cracking, also the controller had smaller capacitors installed and sometimes failed.

Post a pic of the controller, that will help determine if you have the older version or the newer version of the UL-1 (assuming that the controller is the stock one that came with the boat originally, and wasn't swapped out)

I'll post pic's of the controller later tonight, if I remember correctly it has a small cap and a long cap. I don't know what what this means but hopefully pic's will conf
erm the age and wether or not it a moded old or newer version.

Thanks.

[stelerzman]

Doby, you mentioned the turn fin mounting area, what about the fin itself? Should it be flat or curve under the boat? Mine s curved.