Dynamic high speed balancing services

[Basstronics]

I was able to dynamic balance on my new magnetic balancer . I found that the blades were of even thickness yet the hub was heavy one side. So I used my center drill to remove some material. Worked like a charm . Now it rotates and stops randomly instead of the same spot.

I'm sure is not as accurate as what schenck is doing but good enough for me .

[properchopper]

While we're at it, a few of my indispensable prop tools :

For thinning : (been posted before, but a favorite)

DSC04806.JPG


To insure equal blade length after reducing diameter

DSC04804.JPG


Super Hi-Tech Cupping Anvil **

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** Super Hi-Tech Cupping Anvil can be found at local Thrift Store for $2 - $5 (comes with free corner lamp)

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[Cooper]

While we're at it, a few of my indispensable prop tools :

For thinning : (been posted before, but a favorite)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104348[/ATTACH]


To insure equal blade length after reducing diameter

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104349[/ATTACH]


Super Hi-Tech Cupping Anvil **

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104353[/ATTACH]


** Super Hi-Tech Cupping Anvil can be found at local Thrift Store for $2 - $5 (comes with free corner lamp)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104359[/ATTACH]

Love those free gifts when they throw them in!!!! My anvil had wedding name cards in it!! Sitting on the table! Go figure!!! Lol!!

[Mid Day Machining]

I may be missing the point ( happens to me a lot) but going to great lengths to achieve optimum balance, statically and/or dynamically and then mounting it up linked to what usually is an out-of-balance drive dog makes me wonder. This has been addressed before and the answer seemed to be that the entire drive line needs to be balanced as a unit before maximum results are achieved. If anything, since this thread is about props only, and the prop/drive dog mate up as one, I'd think balancing the prop/drive dog together makes sense. Just sayin'..........

You're right Tony. It's not going to do any good to have a prop that's balanced dead nuts unless you balance all the rest of the rotating parts.

If you were turning your prop 1,500 RPM, it wouldn't make much difference. But you're not. You're looking more for the 15,000 to 20,000 RPM range.

[Cooper]

How true your statements are about complete balancing. I decided to make my own shafts that have the drive dog and shaft all one piece. I can match props to these shafts and use a bullet nut or clinch nut and balance it all as one unit. Then I can attach flex line, loc-tite it. The tolerances are key to attaching flex shaft. I cannot see how I could balance the shaft with flex, if someone can figure that one out,,,,,,,, but this is what I have come closest to a completely balanced driveline. I don't have any other pics, the pic was just the first ones made and some refining has been done. Plus they were stainless and I later found out they were not strong enough so new ones made out of tool steel and will be hardened and ground instead of lathed. I only have needed this or a saw set up 100mph+ cat in excess of 12,000 watts running almost 50k rpm.

[Gary]

Is that 50,000 in the water or calculated rpm? Thanks

[Cooper]

Is that 50,000 in the water or calculated rpm? Thanks

48k+ in water under load

[ray schrauwen]

Cool stuff, subbed

[dasboata]

Stick with someone who knows how to balance a prop, not someone that does it as a side job,, you still need to sharpen them, and to tell you the truth a prop is not always out of balance that can be corrected buy drilling the hub,