Largest Motor/ESC Combo In JAE Mini Sprint

[SweetAccord]

No, YGE were very upset that their property was stolen, but they are a small company and international lawsuits both very expensive and unlikely to result in a Chinese patent impeacher actually desisting manufacture of the stolen product. They would rather spend their money on R&D, making their next generation better, keeping their technology above the cloners and giving their customers a better product.

It is however quite easy to get a fake product removed from sale in most countries, so they don't use the original name or logo. They use a similar name and colour scheme to give the impression of the original product, while not technically passing off as the original.

It's easier to copy these days, change one thing and make it their own. Chinese are experts at copying and reselling even products from their own country and competitors. They copy and make it cheaper than the original, and make a profit and 90% of the time it's the same quality or better sometimes, and who benefits? We do. It is the right thing to do? Most consumers don't care, some do. You know how it works, all they have to do is change one little thing and they can market it, which if you look at both ESC the caps are different, everything else looks identical. It's the way of the world now.

[NativePaul]

We benefit in one way, that we get a cheaper product now.

If lots of people buy the cheaper clone, the company that put money into R&D cant recoup that investment and afford to do more R&D, eventually they will go out of business, we lose because it stagnates the technology. Not only do those that buy the clones get older technology, but it slows down the advance of technology that is out there to be cloned.

[Dashunde]

Well, I ordered a Flycolor 70a too.. we'll see if its a better fit, hopefully its only ~17mm thick.
I should have just ordered the FE21.. probably would have been cheaper overall

The YGE copy thing is kind of interesting in that they're apparently "made in Germany", but to what extent and using parts from where?
YGE does not appear to be a very big outfit, at least from a product selection and minimal website perspective.. In reality their "property" and R&D may only amount to firmware?
For comparison, Castle receives boards from elsewhere then they pick-n-place everything in Olathe KS
An interesting read on Castle.

[SweetAccord]

Well, I ordered a Flycolor 70a too.. we'll see if its a better fit, hopefully its only ~17mm thick.
I should have just ordered the FE21.. probably would have been cheaper overall

The YGE copy thing is kind of interesting in that they're apparently "made in Germany", but to what extent and using parts from where?
YGE does not appear to be a very big outfit, at least from a product selection and minimal website perspective.. In reality their "property" and R&D may only amount to firmware?
For comparison, Castle receives boards from elsewhere then they pick-n-place everything in Olathe KS
An interesting read on Castle.

I have the Flycolor 90A. Be careful on what program box you get. There are two kinds, one says Flycolor on the bottom and one says Flycolor on the top. I am still working out trying to figure out which goes to what as Flycolor does not clarify on their website. I can confirm the one that says Flycolor at the top does not work with the 90A ESC. This one: http://www.flycolor.net/Upload/produ...0153320639.jpg

I ordered the box that says Flycolor at the bottom/middle which is what is on their site also and will see if that works. I am also told the one from OSE may work as the Raider ESC is actually a Flycolor rebranded.

[Dashunde]

Sweetaccord, I ordered the 70a... have no idea which box would work with it?

So I went to build and found all of my ca dried up - had a baby girl in 2012 and haven't built squat since and didnt check it ahead of time :/

While I'm waiting on a fresh batch of Mercury adhesives I've been looking it over, prepping parts, etc and I keep coming around to the same question...
Why is everyone reinforcing some variation of the stock plywood mount when the rudder in the kit comes with a "L" mount already?
The "L" mount is about .25" longer, but can easily be cut back and re-drilled for the same length as the original wood (leave the wood in place as a template, then cut it off later).
Is the weight a big deal? Seems that the required reinforcing adds a fair amount of weight anyway?

I'm thinking I'll just cut the L mount back a bit to keep the original length, drill a couple holes in it to reduce weight, and double-ply the transom with thin sheet cf.
Is there some aspect I'm not seeing yet that makes all of that a no-go rudder mounting method?

[NativePaul]

Mine took a buoy strike to break it and a small diagonal reinforcement glued in held up even when it was all held together with glue. If I was to build another I would use lighter wood all round and add the diagonal from the start.

[bob horowitz]

Don't see any reason why it won't work. After tearing out one of the holes on mine, I put in a piece of triangle stock and a thin plate of CF along the side of the tub. By the way, I don't know if you are just going to tack it together with CA and then epoxy it, but I would recommend going over all the joints with epoxy. This little thing is fast for it's size, and puts some serious loads on itself.
Bob

[Dashunde]

Ok, L bracket it is then..
One main concern I have is if it hits something the brass screw will fail to sheer, instead ripping the hole out of the wood, that or just fumbling it during transport.

Bob, it'll depend on the part.. if it can be clamped in place, or is pure structure, I'll use epoxy. But superficial or ornery parts will get ca'd or a combination of both... a light/stingy epoxy application with a couple small spots left dry for a dab of ca/kicker to hold it while the epoxy dries. And I'll go over all of the joints with epoxy again followed up by finishing resin. I dont under-build anything, but I wont make big puddles in the corners either.
Building several planes has taught me the most important thing for a good bond is to lightly scuff away the laser-burnt edges.. nothing bonds well to charcoal.

[bob horowitz]

Sounds like a plan. Keep us posted.
Bob

[SweetAccord]

Sweetaccord, I ordered the 70a... have no idea which box would work with it?

So I went to build and found all of my ca dried up - had a baby girl in 2012 and haven't built squat since and didnt check it ahead of time :/

While I'm waiting on a fresh batch of Mercury adhesives I've been looking it over, prepping parts, etc and I keep coming around to the same question...
Why is everyone reinforcing some variation of the stock plywood mount when the rudder in the kit comes with a "L" mount already?
The "L" mount is about .25" longer, but can easily be cut back and re-drilled for the same length as the original wood (leave the wood in place as a template, then cut it off later).
Is the weight a big deal? Seems that the required reinforcing adds a fair amount of weight anyway?

I'm thinking I'll just cut the L mount back a bit to keep the original length, drill a couple holes in it to reduce weight, and double-ply the transom with thin sheet cf.
Is there some aspect I'm not seeing yet that makes all of that a no-go rudder mounting method?

You want the box that says Flycolor in the middle, not the top if you purchased the new version that is square looking and flat. The old ones are the long, elongated looking ESC's, they use the program box that says Flycolor at the top. Post a pic of which ESC you got and I'll tell you if the box you are looking at to get is right or wrong. I just was contacted by Flycolor and got it all resolved, but I figured it out before they contacted me. They actually have good support.

[SweetAccord]

Ok, L bracket it is then..
One main concern I have is if it hits something the brass screw will fail to sheer, instead ripping the hole out of the wood, that or just fumbling it during transport.

Bob, it'll depend on the part.. if it can be clamped in place, or is pure structure, I'll use epoxy. But superficial or ornery parts will get ca'd or a combination of both... a light/stingy epoxy application with a couple small spots left dry for a dab of ca/kicker to hold it while the epoxy dries. And I'll go over all of the joints with epoxy again followed up by finishing resin. I dont under-build anything, but I wont make big puddles in the corners either.
Building several planes has taught me the most important thing for a good bond is to lightly scuff away the laser-burnt edges.. nothing bonds well to charcoal.

Sand off the dark areas, put in position, tack with superglue and then epoxy and sand off any excess is how to make it clean and light and strong. I coated everything inside and out on the first one I built and it's a pig heavy. I did a second one and it's half the weight and I left the inside bare wood, I only coated the outside and the inside edges lightly epoxy to keep it water tight, strong and light. No matter how you think these should be built, in a crash they will break at the speeds they can do regardless if you build them on way or the other. The OEM setup may fair better in a light crash, but at full speed it won't. So I decided to build light.

[Dashunde]

Do you thin the epoxy to get it to flow or wick better into the narrow gaps left after the part is ca'd into place?

This thing will bust up in a run-of-the-mill wipeout? I thought t was mostly the booms?
I wonder... I have some 1/16 and 3/32 carbon fiber sheet here... and a nice set of new plywood "templates".

[bob horowitz]

I hit a dock with mine, it only broke the booms. It is built with epoxy though.

[SweetAccord]

Do you thin the epoxy to get it to flow or wick better into the narrow gaps left after the part is ca'd into place?

This thing will bust up in a run-of-the-mill wipeout? I thought t was mostly the booms?
I wonder... I have some 1/16 and 3/32 carbon fiber sheet here... and a nice set of new plywood "templates".

Sorry didn't mean to scare you. It won't burt in a wipe out that I can imagine. I was only referring to if you hit something full or somewhat partial throttle. Like Bob said above, he broke his booms. I was not even going full speed and broke mine once and since repaired nicely. That is one reason I like the JAE it's super easy to repair and make look like new again with little effort. Don't make it any thicker, follow the OEM design, just don't go crazy with the epoxy or resin sealer as it adds weight quickly as there is nothing else you can do to make the kit light as all else is already bare minimum by design. Once you build it and run it you will see it's pretty solid and strong, but when you are going 30 MPH or more it don't take much to smash depending on what you hit.

Yes, I CA'd in place and then added epoxy over the area and sanded off any hangs. The CA holds very well buy itself amazingly. I glued some seams (as a test) with CA with some left overs from the kit and when I broke the pieces, where it broke was around the area the CA was, not where the CA was. So that it good, but don't build it just with CA, just use to hold the pieces in place, and then lightly coat over the area with epoxy for full strength and then sand off any excess, as excess (thickness in height) does not help in any way if there is already a thin coating of epoxy between the seams. The epoxy gets into the wood pores and with a thin layer it's very strong but can still crack being a thin layer. It's a hit 22 type build.

Hope that helps.

[SweetAccord]

Ok I confirmed the Flycolor program box that works with the 90A ESC. It should also work with the other lower amp versions. Settings are 1-5 only.



These are the same settings as the OSE Raider and it's the same box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The manual on OSE's site is a bad copy. Attached is a better clearer version.

Hope that helps.