How's your canopy fit Rabosi?
Looking for Offshore Warrior or similar
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Hey guys, well finally got my MK2 in the water. Runs the same as you guys mentioned with the stock setup. Being the first run I only did about 4 mins and all temps were less than 110F. I did get a couple tablespoons of water inside but I believe it's coming up the prop shaft since I bathtub check before and had no leaks. May have to silicone the area where the strut meets the transom. btw I used some weather seal type foam around the lip of the boat to make a seal with the canopy and had good success with it. Fully submerged in bathtub for about 20 sec and only had a couple very small drops which could have possibly fell in when I opened it up. I bought one of the TFL x432 and threw it on (not s/b). Boat seemed a tad quicker but still too low in water. Overall I'm actually happy with it. Of course I'm already contemplating my next speed upgrade.
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You need to seal where the stuffing tube goes into the strut, also on the coupling end of the stuffing tube fit a short piece of silicon water tube over the end of the tube so it seals against the flex. Foam around the hatch in my experience does not seal 100%, you still need to tape the hatch as well. Also make sure the strut is greased not only for lube purposes but it also prevents water entering & going up the stuffing tube into the boat.
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I put my battery back in the stock location and the damn thing still won't self-right. I'm about ready to order the Warrior motor mount and epoxy it into my Super Mono X (I really miss running my Super Mono X......the thing is unsinkable).
I've made a lexan hatch cover and it helps with water instrusion. I plan on making another lexan perimeter 'gasket' that I'll seal to the hull and give a better seal to the main lexan cover. The MK2's hatch design curves, so it's really hard to seal.
I've convinced Banggood to update their website with the MK2's pictures:
I've also convinced them to carry the XBlaze hulls, which should be on the website soon.
Rabosi can you show pictures of your sealing setup please? Thanks.
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MassiveOverkill thats my Warrior that you responded to on Youtube, re selfrighting you must play around with them as the Warrior will not selfright out of the box. I always use higher c rated cells which are heavier to aid righting, if thats still not enough which i suspect it wont be add stick on balance weights along the edge of the deck untill it self rights. On mine i also modded the hatch with an offset raised bubble on top of the hatch, i dont have to wait for the boat to self right as it like a cork & rights instantly as you can see in the video.
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Thanks Martin, I'm also wondering if my SK120 ESC, which weighs twice as much as the stock 30A ESC may be adding to the problem.Originally posted by martin View PostMassiveOverkill thats my Warrior that you responded to on Youtube, re selfrighting you must play around with them as the Warrior will not selfright out of the box. I always use higher c rated cells which are heavier to aid righting, if thats still not enough which i suspect it wont be add stick on balance weights along the edge of the deck untill it self rights. On mine i also modded the hatch with an offset raised bubble on top of the hatch, i dont have to wait for the boat to self right as it like a cork & rights instantly as you can see in the video.
Lite from Banggood:Originally posted by paultbg View PostHello guys,
Am I missing something here?
The price on banggood.com is 238 USD and on HK is 53 USD (and out of stock).
Are they 2 different boats?
Keep in mind that HK's shipping puts that $55 to ~$90, plus they're always out of stock.Last edited by MassiveOverkill; 09-13-2012, 11:45 AM.
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Thanks for the sealing tips Martin. I had already planned on sealing the strut area and did grease the stuffing tube. I will also try the silicone tube at the coupler. As far as the hatch seal, I think I will just re-do it when it stops keeping water out. Easy than taping every time out I think. I have not tested the self-righting yet but figured it's all about weight placement.
Massive here's a photo of my "gasket". Not the greatest work but working well right now. The adhesive is very sticky and a bit tricky to work with.
2012-09-13 13.11.08.jpg
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I got this of a forum member Keithbradley. He also sells hatch bolt kits. I bought a bunch of different weather stripping stuff both home and automotive but the stuff he sells seem much better. A bit closer to the material on your Super Mono gasket. I actually contemplated using some silicone to adhere the SuperMono gasket since it's almost the same size but I had this stuff lying around already.
found the original posting
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...t=keithbradley
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Well second run with s/b tfl 432 prop was much better. Boat moves very well now. Water was a little rough and the hatch popped off the front pin even though I had a strip of tape over front area also (pin is too short). She was submerged except for nose but I was able to drive it back to shore. The hull was completely filled with water. I drained the water out put a new battery in, taped the entire hatch and off it went again. I had to do a recovery because it flipped over and would not self-right. I will have to play around with the weight. Continued running after I flipped it back. Temps after run were all under 100F. Still some small issues I have to iron out but I really like it.
here a small clip of the hatch incident.
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