Just another reason why the Cheap ESC's are looking better and better

[tharmer]

When these ESC's smoke on plug-in are you guize using a resistor to charge the caps before you make the main connection...a la ETTI? Using a resistor eliminates that "snap" that happens when you make the main connection.
-t

[sailr]

I agree but I doubt any manufacturers will volunteer any information that MIGHT make you believe you MIGHT have a problem with their controller.

I would love to hear from any ESC manufacturer's technical department as to the possible causes of boom on plug in, especially on a new controller and is this a problem related to high voltage setups....6S on a max 6S rated ESC......13S on a max rated 13S ESC?

Douggie

[sailr]

I have seen the threads about putting a resistor in the line and connecting it first. I didn't know the ETTI included this as standard. Interesting.

When these ESC's smoke on plug-in are you guize using a resistor to charge the caps before you make the main connection...a la ETTI? Using a resistor eliminates that "snap" that happens when you make the main connection.
-t

[tharmer]

I get my ETTI's from Jim at South River. Maybe he includes them.
-t

[AntronX]

The two high dollar Schulze's I watched smoke were simply on plug-in, not during a run and by a very experienced SAW racer.

All i needed to see :)

[Punisher 67]

No offense taken Jim , I like Doggie am kind of curious on why a unit would would smoke on pluggin especially the cream of the crop ESC's like a Schulze

[sailr]

I have no idea why they smoked on plug-in. I wish someone could explain it! Those of us standing there were amazed. Two of them did it the same day. Talk about one unhappy SAW racer! He was running 10S lipos.

[teach]

I won't pretend to speak for speed control makers but I can speak for auto electrical systems. When a mystery electrical problem hits my dealership and we have tried everything in the world, it ALWAYS ends up being a poor contact somewhere.

When the floods in La. hit a few years back we ended up with multiple vehicles with blown control units. Even after replacing the control units the vehicle would always come back with problems. Came to find out every single one of them had been in the floods. I can see how this would affect this hobby. Anytime moisture is allowed to sit on any electrical board or conection it will corrode. One really easy to see this happen is look at your plugs to your receiver. If you are not active in preventing corrosion you will see green "dust" around the plug. That will cause high resistance, resistance equals heat, heat equals .

Again not saying this is what is killing stuff, just another theory. Just thinking out loud here.

[sailr]

Very interesting and something we should be more aware of. I'm not good about using corrosion X or some other preventive. At the end of the day I just pack the stuff up. Good tip! I'll try to be more vigilant.

[kennyrach]

Hi all . Here the way i see it ,i buy the low end equipment and pushed the limit .And if it go i just get other one and try again .i still again of the game and i use SEAKING 90A Water-Cool Brushless Motor Programmable ESC and up and their find

[Simon.O.]

Hi all . Here the way i see it ,i buy the low end equipment and pushed the limit .And if it go i just get other one and try again .i still again of the game and i use SEAKING 90A Water-Cool Brushless Motor Programmable ESC and up and their find

I think I get what you are saying.

I do agree that using some of the lower cost esc's is a good idea, especially when you plan on experimenting and pushing the limits of the item. I do it all the time, so I know where you are coming form.

The Seaking esc is a good unit from what I have read from a few reputable users. I see a lot of the price as being it is watercooled and "waterproof", I am very sceptical about that claim.

There are some 100A esc's out there for half the price, but the challenge being that you must have a dry boat to run them. I have 3 of them and today managed to flip my Hydro and Canard ( many times) today, and came back with a few drops of water in the hull.

Water proof the hull and run low cost speedies.
Spec the esc high and run them non watercooled.

I do, and I love the fun.

[tylerm]

There are some 100A esc's out there for half the price, but the challenge being that you must have a dry boat to run them. I have 3 of them and today managed to flip my Hydro and Canard ( many times) today, and came back with a few drops of water in the hull.

Hey Simon, i have a very dodgy "she'll be right!" trick i learned when a boat of mine filled up with water once
I had only half covered the esc(SS100A from HK) in dp270, as i didnt mix enough and was being lazy. I then ended running a crappy unsealed AM receiver WITHOUT its plastic case. After a good stuff, the boat would not go again. I opened it up to of course a load of water. What saved the ESC i think however, is that the reciever stopped working once it got wet. This meant the speedie wasnt trying to power up when it was wet, saving it i believe. For 27$, i think the SS100A is a blimin good esc

Of course this will only work if you know the receiver is going to stiop working when it gets wet, instead of going ape and writing off your beloved boat

Tyler.

P.S. this post is MY experience only, not to be used as a guide to running ANY RC boat No responsibility is accepted by TCM from the practical misuse of context in this post leading to electronic meltdowns and/or destroyed boats

[ozzie-crawl]

scraping the conformal coating of my recievers this very moment

[tylerm]

haha

[jcald2000]

Note!
My NEW xl 40-160 does NOT spark on connection!
My Etti 150 race with the add on cap. board defintly did SPARK.
All on 6s2p.