Originally posted by Simon.O.
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Let me make it clear I'm no expert on monohulls either - outriggers are more my thing too.
Generally speaking, the starting point for setting up a monohull is a straight, flat bottom, with no hook or rocker. However, in order to correct torque roll, it is possible to modify the shape of the hull, for example to add wedges to the right hand side, or to introduce a very, very subtle hook with a thin layer of filler.
The monos I've played around with recently have all been stepped, and these behave quite differently to a boat without steps - usually they're much more nervous and don't turn as well.
Hook/hollows is usually considered a bad thing because it acts like a big trim tab, forcing the nose down and making the boat run very wet, and therefore killing speed - unless the designer of the boat has purposely hooked the bottom to avoid using trim tabs.
I would suggest that the logical course of action is to start with a flat, straight "neutral" hull and proceed from there. If you have very bad torque roll/prop walking, try correcting these with adjustments to the drive angle and by biasing the weight to the left. If this doesn't work, then think about re-profiling the hull bottom, or perhaps running spray rails on the right only, or reducing the spray rails on the left to alter the lift on each side.
When evaluating another design that has hook, you would need to know whether the hook is a consequence of poor quality manufacture, or a deliberate design feature. A badly made hull that works well is pure luck.
Paul
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