H&M Hydro Performance?

[andym]

Yes please , action shots and some vidio doing 65mph will be very nice thank you.

[Xzessperated]

You guys are welcome. We get a lot of help from your side of the pond also and it is always appreciated. It really does not matter what side of the pond we are on as we are all FE boaters.
I look forward to seeing the build progress and some action shots when your ice melts.

[10gauge]

I let you guys know how it's progressing. It's going to be a step up from my DF22 Vortex Hydro. It's a long winter here in New England, and I am going build this one carefully.

[ksm2001]

YW 10 gauge, let us know how your build comes along, as for the strut offset I did the same and works great, I set it to 3mm left of center. Oh ya your a dentist hmmm have this throbbing lol JK. Cheers
Ken

[10gauge]

Hey Ken, forgot to thank you too for your comments and photo!

[ksm2001]

Great pics paddy, I sheeted and epoxied fiberglass cloth around the booms to the hull and then cut the booms flush with the side of the hull for the lipos to fit up front. I like your motor position, I'll see how it runs with the 7xl and may move the motor to the front more now that I see how you have yours set. Thanks also for all the pics. To bad I didn't have them when I built the boat

[10gauge]

Paddy, I can't thank you enough for the superb pictures and great advice! You and Andy are in my book. This must be Australian hospitality at its finest. In any case, if you ever need free dental advice, you know who to ask.

[Xzessperated]

A tail of 2 riggers....
10guage here are the pics of the transoms. You can see there is a small offset on both struts. On Andy's old boat (red transom) you can see the rudder is quite long.
On my original boat you can see Solinger hardware but a very short rudder and turn fin. You could call it a SAWcuit boat

Andys boat turns much better but I just use mine for straight line and so turning is not a big issue for me. I use the short turn fin because of the small lake I run on (and the ducks)





I hope this helps
Paddy

[Xzessperated]

Some repair work I had to do (still waiting to be painted) after cutting a puffed 6s pack out with some side cutters . This hull has had a hard life but is going much faster today than when I first purchaed it. Sorry about the dark look inside the hull but that is what happens when you let the smoke out of an esc.

[Xzessperated]

Here are some pictures of my original Xs2. You will see I put my receiver pack up in the nose and then the Lipo behind it. You will also see my boom mod. I cut some marine ply and shaped a half round into it so the remaining boom would fit into the half round nicely. The ply and the boom are also wired together and then a generous amount of epoxy to glue it all in place. I did not cut the boom until the epoxy was set for several hours and that way the boom remains in the position it was meant to be.





Here you can see the receiver pack in the nose


The boom mod....

[Xzessperated]

I have the motor set at 180mm from Transom and my CG is at 335mm, I followed the instructions the where in German I know some said to set it to 160mm or even 150 but I couldn't get close to the cg of what is wanted.
Thanks Andy :thumbsup:

ksm2001 here is what is possible after cutting the CF boom and it will allow you to get the COG much better



You can see the Lipo will go up into the nose

[andym]

Try a m645 with the 8xl, if you have good packs and esc it will not be a problem and absolutly haul some ass

[ksm2001]

Once we get spring back here I'll kick the rudder back like you have it in the pic and try it out, the post above I should have said that having the cg at 335mm the boat runs fast and stable on calm water with a 8xl and a x637 prop and 4s. I'll try the 7xl out in spring.
Ken

[ksm2001]

I have the motor set at 180mm from Transom and my CG is at 335mm, I followed the instructions the where in German I know some said to set it to 160mm or even 150 but I couldn't get close to the cg of what is wanted.
Thanks Andy :thumbsup:

[andym]

You can see from the pic of the yelow one that the rudder is kicked out at the bottom by a few degree's. You will find that this induces some lift to help with blow overs and also puts downward pressure on the inside sponson during a turn, this helps keeping it planted and the turn fin hooked up so as to turn well. Ksm2001 I would run my motor a bit further forward than you have, what is the CoG like?