HiModel 4s-8s 200 amp esc

[ksm2001]

I am beginning to think an evil Genie occupies all esc's, regardless of brand and when we utter just the right word, he pops out and smokes our speedies. How else to you explain it?

Maybe you just gave us the answer...Don't rub the boat before connecting the batteries this way all the smoke including the genie stay in. JK

Ken

[ksm2001]

Hey guys, well this weekend i had the magical smoke escape my ESC I currently have the Turnigy 120A marine ESC running a fiegao 8xl on 3s and 4s. This is all in a 25" DF copy running an X640. I was thinking of going with the 4/8s Himodel. How do you guys think this set-up will work?

Can you put the smoke back in Sorry to hear that MM I've had very good success on the Himodel 4/8s on my DF29 8xl with a m445, 139 amps peak and its only warm. Knock on wood but I like this controller and think others that use it would say the same for the $. Should work out good on your setup.

Ken

[sailr]

I am beginning to think an evil Genie occupies all esc's, regardless of brand and when we utter just the right word, he pops out and smokes our speedies. How else to you explain it?

[M.M.]

Hey guys, well this weekend i had the magical smoke escape my ESC I currently have the Turnigy 120A marine ESC running a fiegao 8xl on 3s and 4s. This is all in a 25" DF copy running an X640. I was thinking of going with the 4/8s Himodel. How do you guys think this set-up will work?

[bustitup]

Thanks Ken!

I will be using the Castle BEC in both cases anyway, just wondering witch is the better esc

himodel site there was many reviews on 3/7 but nothing on 4/8

the 3/7 is cheaper too(well 2$ worth )

FV
both are a very popular and proven ....you couldnt go wrong with either one

yes OSE etti cooling plate will work and its a super easy mod...that heat sink pops right off but do it carefully...there are many threads explaining how to do it

and for the price its a no brainer....I think if you contact ray fuller at rrr he has one for $49 but he probabley wants shipping...if you buy from himodel they ship pretty fast and are reputable

GL...... keep up the good building

[ksm2001]

I like the 4/8 JMO don't need the ubec, and its around 105 degrees after a run with the 8xl and m445.

Ken

[ED66677]

I have the 100A version on my 29" DF copy, it is from the same ebay seller, Swang, good stuff for the money!

[domwilson]

Found these on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/Flyermate-Atlant...d=p3286.c0.m14

Don't know anything about them.

[FastVee]

Thanks Ken!

I will be using the Castle BEC in both cases anyway, just wondering witch is the better esc

himodel site there was many reviews on 3/7 but nothing on 4/8

the 3/7 is cheaper too(well 2$ worth )

[ksm2001]

the 4/8 esc can use the lipos as a source to power the receiver/servo while the 3/7 will require a separate battery pack or a ubec. The cooling plate from OSE fits and the thermal paste will work, I used Artic silver thermal epoxy from the computer store. I know some have put brass tubes in the cooling fins and works good too.

Ken

[FastVee]

Could some one help me to pick the right esc?

The himodel site has 3/7 cell no bec and 4/8cell bec one.

Witch one keeps the blue smoke inside better? -i will be using castle bec anyways.


Thinking of using it with 8XL and delta 29 (or bigger hull in the future). 4-6 cells

Is the OSE cooling plate good on this, and the thermal paste that Steven sells ok with this?

Or is the brass tubing on the cooling fins better mod?

-Pate

[sailr]

uh, yeah...sorta. haha

[domwilson]

Thank you. Good to know.

[785boats]

Just thought I'd relate a little situation I had with one of these ESC's a couple of weekends ago.
Boat...32" cat, 8XL, 4s 5350mah 25c Lipo, X640 prop
Brought the boat in after a good solid run. It stopped a few meters off shore, so I eased on the throttle a bit & the prop turned a few times & then stopped. I backed off with the throttle & tried again. Same result. Tried more throttle & nothing..
After getting the boat & opening it up I first checked the battery voltage at 3.8v/cell Which is OK in my book. Motor & shaft spun freely. All connections good. Heat was mild like it always is.
Tried the throttle again & motor revved up but only to what sounded like half revs at full throttle. Put the boat back in the water, gave it 1/4 throttle, motor kicked over a few times & stopped.
Tried again out of the water & motor revved again but not to full revs.
Thought I'd killed the ESC, but when I got home I decided to reprogramme it making sure I entered every setting even the default ones that you don't normally touch like brake, rotation, PWM, etc.
Tried it out on Saturday & everything was fine. No problems at all.
Maybe this will help someone if their ESC stops working & is not obviously blown or overly cooked.
All the best.
Paul.

[lomdel]

What is the "T" fitting and extra line on the loop tube?

I have a rudder with two water intakes. One goes to the motor (not installed in the pic yet) and the other one is splitted by the "T" to two tubes on the ESC and then the two lines exit through the side of the hull still separately. The third exit line is from the motor cooler... Clear?