Newbie with tunnel hull project

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  • HTVboats
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2011
    • 802

    #16
    Very good info. 42X55 Grimracer is the "bread and butter" prop on a spec tunnel. As for a water jacket without a cowling over the motor you have plenty of airflow on an outboard. I have run without which will let the ESC have more flow and saves weight. Cooling in series you have warmed water going to whichever is last on the pipe. I use a "T" and split flow of cool water to both when cooling the outboard motor with a water jacket. Check after run temps for sure. When we run road course cars I see motor temps above 150 degrees all the time without damage. Never had an outboard come in that warm.
    Mic

    Mic Halbrehder
    IMPBA 8656
    NAMBA 1414

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    • HANNlBAL_KING
      Junior Member
      • May 2016
      • 17

      #17
      42x55 Grimracer prop, leopard 3660 motor, and water jacket ordered. I will play around with and without the water jacket to see how I want to run it.

      I'm finally going to get a bit of time this weekend to work on the placement and mounting of the hardware. Once I have it situation and the boat balanced I will tear everything down and start painting. I'll be sure to post up pics as I make progress on it.

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      • HANNlBAL_KING
        Junior Member
        • May 2016
        • 17

        #18
        When the rest of my equipment shows up I will mount the lower unit and motor to start working on the balance of the boat, but here is the tentative placement of electronics.

        2016-06-17 08.13.31.jpg

        I'm also going to think through a way of waterproofing the section where the battery and ESC are located.

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        • HOTWATER
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Nov 2008
          • 2323

          #19
          You are gonna want that 4S pack in the back...esc on top of the lipo or just ahead of the lipo...trust me...

          You may have to make longer esc to motor leads and a 6"or 8" servo extension wire for the esc to receiver...drill a hole from mid box into front box as low as you can to run the esc extension wire to plug into rec.

          Also, you will be well off using a "push/pull-push/pull" system for steering using 4 -4/40 rods, two on each side doubling them up and using small wheel collars to lock the doubled rods together at the correct lengths. This double control horn : http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFVJ9&P=M

          I use these redline seal mounts and seals for steering rods...(they should work great coming out the back of your forward radio box!)



          Last edited by HOTWATER; 06-17-2016, 10:27 PM.
          "Will race for cookies!"
          IMPBA D12
          My Gallery: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/album.php?u=1738

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          • HANNlBAL_KING
            Junior Member
            • May 2016
            • 17

            #20
            In researching where the COG should be it appears that around 28-32% of the length of the hull from the transom. If that is correct the battery will need to remain where it is currently and I will actually have to put the ESC up in the front compartment. Does that seem right?

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            • HANNlBAL_KING
              Junior Member
              • May 2016
              • 17

              #21
              I have only been able to work on the boat a little bit at a time on the weekends, but here are a few updates:

              Float test after finding COG
              2016-06-25 09.45.59.jpg

              Building battery tray mounts
              2016-07-02 19.12.17.jpg

              I will be running power and cooling lines underneath the battery tray
              2016-07-02 19.28.27.jpg

              Building bulkhead wall between front and rear water tight compartments
              2016-07-06 19.26.33.jpg

              I am hoping to make some more progress on it this weekend.

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              • HANNlBAL_KING
                Junior Member
                • May 2016
                • 17

                #22
                I've been making some progress today. Here are a few pictures of test fitting components before I begin to epoxy things in place.

                Electrical and cooling lines running under battery tray (Battery tray is removable)
                2016-07-09 11.25.33.jpg

                Battery placement (can move forward or back to find COG)
                2016-07-09 11.26.28.jpg

                Test fitting placement for bolts to be used for closing the center hatch
                2016-07-09 11.59.14.jpg

                The rear section of the hatch will be permanently affixed and will have the power wires for the motor along with the intake and exit for the cooling lines coming through it.
                2016-07-09 12.50.48.jpg

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                • HANNlBAL_KING
                  Junior Member
                  • May 2016
                  • 17

                  #23
                  With all of these changes the boat is gaining a bit of weight. Once I am done I believe it will end up weighing about 10oz more than it did with the gas engine and the fuel tank being full. At first I wanted to keep it as light as possible, but thinking more about it I like the idea of a heavier and more stable boat. If I get the bug to go faster I will build something from scratch with speed in mind.


                  I've decided the rear hatch will also be removable to make it easier to service.
                  2016-07-09 15.12.10.jpg

                  Just a few pictures of the hatches on.
                  2016-07-09 15.46.30.jpg

                  2016-07-09 15.46.41.jpg

                  I'm off to the hobby shop to get some more parts.

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                  • HANNlBAL_KING
                    Junior Member
                    • May 2016
                    • 17

                    #24
                    I've been working on other projects around the house over the past few months, but finally found some time to work on the boat again.

                    I've spent most of the weekend priming, sanding, and painting the boat along with polishing the cowl to get it looking better. I still need to wet sand and polish the boat itself once the clear coat completely cures, but I got pretty excited about how it is turning out and wanted to share a few before and after photos.



                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by HANNlBAL_KING; 11-20-2016, 07:59 PM.

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