Found this recently. Some good information, worth seeing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4z8QMgTEA4
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Last edited by urbs00007; 02-06-2015, 09:45 PM. -
Good luck dissipating the heat from your ESC when its epoxy coated. -
I personally use corrosion -x on everything. But since we use water-cooling , do we need to worry about heat dissipation? Also, in the video he epoxies the end of the shrink wrap. I don't like the idea of sealing off electronics because of condensation. JMO.Comment
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Why do people say this? Friend, I have epoxy coated several esc's and they have no problem dissipating heat. You have a cooling block or tube directly touching the fets, heat gets dissipated through the block and carried out through the water. Let me give you some other reasons why it works.....Originally posted by photohoward1 View Post
1) seaking 180 v3 is coated
2) swordfish water proof esc's are coated. Have you ever seen a 240hv or 300? They are coated very thick. They work just fine.
3) mamba monster 2 esc.....it's coated
4) I have a couple different hobbywing car esc's that are coated. Work just fine.
5) I had an Etti esc, it was coated from the factory.
So....I'm not sure how or why you would say good luck? It's done all the time. :)32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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Why do they now sell an uncoated SW300. I have a couple and they run very hot at below rated amp draw. IMO if you are using your ESC in the higher rated band you might want all the dissipation you can get. Conformal yes. Epoxy not a fan.
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Uncoated 300? I wasn't aware of an Uncoated one but that still doesn't mean that epoxy coating is no good....lots of things are epoxy coated and work fine. So if the epoxy supposedly holds the heat in, what does the heat shrink do? Heck, being inside an enclosed hull holds heat in.....once again....the heat is carried away by the water.Originally posted by photohoward1 View Post32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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Originally posted by photohoward1 View Post
I tried to find an Uncoated 300. I found the lite version only....and its still coated. Says so in the description. Have a read....
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-HBF1300L-lite32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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You can buy epoxy that is special made to be thermally conductive. Check out Heat-Transfer Adhesives for Electronics offered by McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-...poxies/=vttb2y. It is made for encapsulating electronics. Electrically insulating, Heat conducting.41" & 29" FE Aeromarine Sprint Cats, Quickdraw powered "Dollar Eater" 41" Insane Cat, 29" BL mod Graupner Cat, 24" Hydro, 29" OB Cat, BL mod NQD Tear Into Jet boat, 55" Scarab, JET SWEEP R/C pool skimmer Rescue Boat.Comment
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Travis,
I'm with you on this one
For my ESC's use silicon RTV instead of epoxy, end result is still the same
For my receivers use... http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape
Everything is working just fine
Originally posted by kfxguy View PostAQ MiniMono - CopterX 430XL 3550kv BL Outrunner + Seaking(V2) 35A on 2S VERY Fast
Pro Boat SW26v3 - 2860-2600kv + Seaking(V2) 90A on 3S, Build in Progress
Pro Boat Stealthwake 23 - Stock For Now - Brushless Down The RoadComment
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I give a spray of corrosion x and that's it.
Do you guys not seal up your boats or something? I've been at electric boats for 5 years now and nitro since the 80's and have never lost any electronic components due to water, no servos, escs or receivers.
Not at all saying I have never had stuff break or burn up but nothing due to water since 82 or 83.
One of my biggest concerns is sealing up my boats properly before I ever run them and I never get water in them.
If my boat gets hit by another, breaks and fills with water I figure I have much bigger concerns than an esc or servo.
To be honest I don't think any of the guys I run with have lost anything due to water, one time my buddies JAE lost a flex cable, by the time we got out to it only the sponson tips were above water, he let it dry for a week and was running it the next weekend no problems. Non of us use conformal or epoxy, just the Corrosion X or CRC spray.If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?
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eGlad that the factorys are starting to address this problem. Water and electronic don't mix well
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No matter how good you seal your boat up, accidents can happen. Let me give you some reality.Originally posted by siberianhusky View Post
1) cooling line pops off. Not common, but it can happen. Happened to me a couple weeks ago. It filled up with water. Hey, we are all human and we make mistakes. I didn't have the zip tie on tight and made a 90mph run. Had I just simply relied on the fact that my boat is water tight, and not waterproofed everything....well I probably would have lost all my electronics. Good thing I know better
2) what if your flex breaks at the motor? Say bye bye electronics again
3) you hit something by accident you didn't see....puts a little hole in the hull. Fills up with water. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
I could keep going, but you get my point you have a vessel out in the water. Water always wants to find it way in. You can take chances, but I'm not. There's only two reasons I can think of if you've never got water in your hull.....
1) your extremely lucky or 2) you just don't run your boats very often. I run mine pretty much every weekend.
Ain't no sense in arguing about it either, everyone has their own way of doing things. Keep on doing what your doing and I'll keep on doing what I'm doing.32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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I assume you're referring to the lack of rubber potting inside the ESC. The reasons for this design were:Originally posted by photohoward1 View Post
1) The normal SF300s were too heavy
2) The wire layout sucked
3) They didn't fit well in 45" twin cats
Those are the exact and only reasons those ESCs are made that way. Any other advantage is secondary.Last edited by keithbradley; 02-14-2015, 04:39 PM.Comment
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Kfxguy, do you actually pour thick epoxy into the open ends of the heat shrink?Or do you paint on thin epoxy?
Ive been stocking up on materials to reinforce all of my hulls over 20", this seems like a good way for me to use up all of the experimental batches of epoxy I mix.I'm just a little worried about the epoxy creating a contact issue like corrosion if I pour it in.The open end on a 200a esc is huge compared to the little heli esc in the video.Comment
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I think he means cut off, shrink wrapping water proof it and install new shrink wrap. Or that's what I do.Comment
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