1800 kv, 48mm prop, 60 a esc equals....thermal shut down

[Brushless55]

While we are on the topic of this particular motor mount, I think it was a clever idea as far as design is concerned, but the thin aluminum piece leaves much to be desired. As you said, there is little flex, and that is putting it politely.
Now I have an UL-1 with the same motor mount, while I was dialing in the boat there were numerous flips and rolls , everytime that happened I had major realignment issues. This alignment issue is present even without any flips, I got tired of it and made a motor mount myself, now it is rock solid. Check it out:[ATTACH=CONFIG]119655[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]119658[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]119659[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]119660[/ATTACH]

Nice job on that mount..
looks great

[ninjanerek]

But there is no disadvantage to running dual cooling, right? If i could find a dual pickup rudder that would correspond with the stock hardware, i would definitely cool seperately.
I ran my stock lucas oil motor on 6s 120a esc, and 42 mm cnc prop, it was pretty bucky. I think i actually got better performance on 4s with the 48mm cnc.

[iop65]

because there is no need for that,motor is warm not hot ,esc is barely warm
i changed the coolingblock from the seaking like the aquacraft esc is being cooled

1mm CU-plate in place of the original coolingblok that i removed
2 x 4mm tube solderd to it
some heatshrink

done

works great ,esc can stay in the same place
downside :when removing flex i have to tilt the esc to reach the coupler (esc is attached with velcro and rubber band)

click for bigger picture:
lucas oil 1 (1).JPG

[ninjanerek]

Why aren't you cooling motor and esc independently?

[iop65]

this is mine:
lucas oil 1.JPGlucas oil 2.JPGlucas oil 3.JPG

stock motor,tub removed ,carbon motormount ,better coupler,shortend flex,changed wateroutlet
5s ( 1x3 + 1x2 in series)
43 cnc prop 1.4p,motor:warm but not hot
90A seaking with disconected bec and extra caps

speed : easily 75 km/h and if set loose breaks 80km/h

[tlandauer]

The screws holding the original mount were actually loose...tightening them down after each run might be necessary

You need to use a bit of low strength thread lock ( blue) so the vibration will not shake the screws loose. Speaking of vibrations, there are culprits: they can be that your motor ( rotor) was not balanced from the factory, or you have a collet that is seriously defective. The collet is one item I will def up grade to a Octura one found here at OSE: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15S, or, the long version:http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15d
I personally use split washers to prevent the screws from walking loose. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE041&P=SM
And, if the holes are a bit big on the motor mount, I use flat washers first, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE048&P=SM then split washers between the flat washers and the heat of the screws.
You should not have to tighten them after every run. periodic check is a good idea though.

[ninjanerek]

The screws holding the original mount were actually loose...tightening them down after each run might be necessary

[ninjanerek]

Nice work. Im not far enough along to machine my own stuff. I flipped the stock mount and tightened it down, seems like it should hold.

[tlandauer]

Thanks for all of the tips guys. The motor mount had a little wiggle to it, that had to have been the issue. The flex shaft moves freely inside the stuffing tube, so i dont think that is the issue. And i always leave a gap between prop and drive cog. Lube after every run. The current plan of action is to flip the stock motor mount, ul-1 flex, and im going to install the castle electronics from my spartan inside. Only because i have them lying around though. Unless anyone has some suggestions on how to make this thing nasty ��

While we are on the topic of this particular motor mount, I think it was a clever idea as far as design is concerned, but the thin aluminum piece leaves much to be desired. As you said, there is little flex, and that is putting it politely.
Now I have an UL-1 with the same motor mount, while I was dialing in the boat there were numerous flips and rolls , everytime that happened I had major realignment issues. This alignment issue is present even without any flips, I got tired of it and made a motor mount myself, now it is rock solid. Check it out:DSCN5804_6139.jpg DSCN5809_6144.jpg DSCN5825_6160.jpg DSCN5834_6169.jpg

[ninjanerek]

Thanks for all of the tips guys. The motor mount had a little wiggle to it, that had to have been the issue. The flex shaft moves freely inside the stuffing tube, so i dont think that is the issue. And i always leave a gap between prop and drive cog. Lube after every run. The current plan of action is to flip the stock motor mount, ul-1 flex, and im going to install the castle electronics from my spartan inside. Only because i have them lying around though. Unless anyone has some suggestions on how to make this thing nasty 😀

i meant prop and strut

[ninjanerek]

Thanks for all of the tips guys. The motor mount had a little wiggle to it, that had to have been the issue. The flex shaft moves freely inside the stuffing tube, so i dont think that is the issue. And i always leave a gap between prop and drive cog. Lube after every run. The current plan of action is to flip the stock motor mount, ul-1 flex, and im going to install the castle electronics from my spartan inside. Only because i have them lying around though. Unless anyone has some suggestions on how to make this thing nasty 😀

[Doby]

No need to make unnecessary changes (bigger ESC)

Could be a bad motor (it happens).

I only run 4 cats, 3 hydros and 6 monos...so what do I know.

[iop65]

You do not... I have been racing that set up on a Revolt and Motley Crew for 2 years with no issues.

Theres more going on here...

Did you have a gap between the drive dog and the strut to allow for the flex cable to contract when under load?

a cat loves rpm's , to make this small boat go faster is to not to use 48 mm props and swinging them at an unloaded 26000rpm
this guy wants more speed and isn't restricted by any motor size or lipo rule

the boat will handle much better swinging a smaller prop at an higher rpm ,and use smaller prop

my 2 cents (coming from experience with my lucas oil)

and yes ,maybe he's got something else wrong too but now he has smoked his motor i would change it to a higher kv and lager size

[champion221elite]

Check to make sure the motor mount is secure and has no flex. Under load, a poorly designed or loose motor mount will allow the motor to tip forwards and downward which puts stress on the flex cable. This causes drag and added heat within the driveline. I had this happen on a boat and it was famous for breaking flex shafts until I figured out the problem and fixed it.

Your driveline should not heat up much over ambient temps. High temps on the stuffing tube should serve as a warning that something is wrong.

Also, make sure you leave enough gap between your drive dog and strut. A flex shaft will shorten under load. If it's too close already, the drive dog will make contact with the strut face and cause drag.

[Doby]

you sure will need a bigger motor and esc for that prop
and i wouldn't be surprised that a 48 mm pushing that boat will cause handling problems

You do not... I have been racing that set up on a Revolt and Motley Crew for 2 years with no issues.

Theres more going on here...

Did you have a gap between the drive dog and the strut to allow for the flex cable to contract when under load?