Best epoxy

[gsbuickman]

Just remember gorilla doesn't like heat. I wouldn't be using it for a motor mount.

Thanks, i'll remember that. I never had a problem with heat and any epoxy, then again I prefer water cooled motor mounts cause they keep front bearings kool I think if epoxy is getting that hot, there's bigger problems to worry about ...

[Chilli]

90% of the time I use either JB Weld or the 30 minute squeeze bottle, two part epoxy that hobby shops sell as their store brand. I've only had one failure in a dozen boats (electric, gas, 90+mph SAW) and that was due lousy surface prep on my part. The only time I go for the expensive stuff is when I mount rails in a bare hull. Then I go for Loctite Hysol HP-120. Surface prep is the key no matter what you use!

[siberianhusky]

My use of West has gone down considerably unless I'm building a wooden hull, mostly JB Weld to install stuffing tubes, motor, servo and battery mounts.
I don't put cloth inside the hulls anymore, the way we do it I'm not sure there are really any benefits, now if you could vacuum bag it with some peel ply and breather fabric to soak up the excess resin and really get it pressed into the bottom of the hull...
I now prefer rails which I do glue in with West thickened with coloidial (sp?) silica. Amazing how much hook rails can press out of a chinese hull!
I've read a pile about the Hysol, if I ever see it on a shelf I'll try it for sure, they use that stuff on full scale Unlimited Hydroplanes, should hold up on an rc version!

[properchopper]

When I built my first IB34 mono I attached the rails with 30 minute "hobby-store grade" Quik Bond two-part epoxy. Then, one day during practice with the lake kicked up with abnormally large waves, I had a "Hey Bubba, Watch this full throttle mono motocross" moment . Boat backflipped and slammed down deck first. The entire rail/motor/battery try assembly broke loose. I switched to West GFlex and now use it exclusively. I'm sure other premium brands do a good job, but I have a West Marine 2 miles away so I'm good to go. Chili is 100% correct in stressing prep. Scuff, scuff, scuff; then clean with alcohol.

If a flexible bond is necessary, 3M 5200 can't be beat. MEGA strong but rather messy to use and long cure.

[rickwess]

I switched to West GFlex and now use it exclusively.

Yep. I use G/Flex for bonding..........with silica for thickening if required. Plus black epoxy pigment if I need it to match the CF inlay.

MVS is only for laminating CF or FG cloth.

[tlandauer]

West 205/206 for FG/CF inlay and for motor miunt or stuffing tube I mix with their FG filler ( 404 High-Density Adhesive Filler), it's bullet proof.
Having said that, I love JB Weld and I too use that on motor mount and battery trays.
The Z-Poxy ( 30 minute) is very thick, I think it has filler in it, the over all strength is good, problem is that it will not flow or soak the FG cloth so my use for that is only limited to attaching components.
Z-Poxy's Finishing Epoxy is easily sandable but for structural bonding you must add the above mentioned filler or it cures in a somwhat brittle condition as compared to Z-Poxy epoxy.
For gluing polycarbonate or lexan I use E-6000.

[785boats]

For more than ten years I've been using some Chinese 'Super Epoxy' from the local Reject Shop. Three bucks for a syringe pack. Had some big flips & crashes. No failures yet.

[tlandauer]

Them Chinese stuff is very strong, maybe even radioactive!
About 10 years ago I was given a brand new cello case, beautifully made. I went to a movie recording session and soon everyone was nauseous and they almost had to evacuate the studio because the chemical smell from this "sample case" was simply a biological weapon.
Good thing they did not send me to Guantanamo Bay.

[siberianhusky]

LOL a drummer probably slept in it then they couldn't sell it!