I bought a Genesis online used. It was originally upgraded by a Co. who specializes in Gens. It has a turnigy 180amp esc and a Leopard motor. When I got it it was only wired for a single pack with a traxxas connector on the esc. Im not sure why. I have since put Anderson power pole connectors on the esc in series. I ran the boat with spc 6500mah 65c 3s lipos. On the first run within mins I had the recovery boat out upon opening the hatch I noticed the wire that was melted was the wire that goes from the postive to negative to run the boat in series. Took it home fixed it ran it again a day later same thing melted the one wire and just that wire. I took it home fixed it again but this time used 8g wire for the wire causing the problems. After that run which I did run for about 5 or 6 mins the wire wasnt melted but was hot and the lipos where very hot 150 degrees and they are hard case lipos. Does anyone have any ideas to what is goin on? I am not familar with turnigy products because I dont buy them but this is what this boat came with. I have also bought an eagle tree. What should I be looking for with the eagle tree? Thx much Rob
why am i melting 10g wire
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Possibly the timing. Which motor do you have in there? If it is a D Wynd and the ESC is set to high timing the amp draw will heat things up. Another could be too big of prop and/or prop too deep in water. Pics of the back of boat would help for that.Originally posted by TheGnMan View PostI bought a Genesis online used. It was originally upgraded by a Co. who specializes in Gens. It has a turnigy 180amp esc and a Leopard motor. When I got it it was only wired for a single pack with a traxxas connector on the esc. Im not sure why. I have since put Anderson power pole connectors on the esc in series. I ran the boat with spc 6500mah 65c 3s lipos. On the first run within mins I had the recovery boat out upon opening the hatch I noticed the wire that was melted was the wire that goes from the postive to negative to run the boat in series. Took it home fixed it ran it again a day later same thing melted the one wire and just that wire. I took it home fixed it again but this time used 8g wire for the wire causing the problems. After that run which I did run for about 5 or 6 mins the wire wasnt melted but was hot and the lipos where very hot 150 degrees and they are hard case lipos. Does anyone have any ideas to what is goin on? I am not familar with turnigy products because I dont buy them but this is what this boat came with. I have also bought an eagle tree. What should I be looking for with the eagle tree? Thx much Rob
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Its the Leopard 3674 1900kv Ill get a pic on here soonOriginally posted by srislash View PostPossibly the timing. Which motor do you have in there? If it is a D Wynd and the ESC is set to high timing the amp draw will heat things up. Another could be too big of prop and/or prop too deep in water. Pics of the back of boat would help for that.
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Yes they are rated at 45amps I dont get that I can run a large heli on 12s on APPs but not a boat on 6s. I agree the APPs probably are the problem. I have converted everything I own over to APPs (lipos/escs) because I heard from others how great they are.Originally posted by jcald2000 View PostPowerpoles are rated for 45 amps, get rid of them.
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What prop? That's a high KV For 6s. Your pulling to many amps. Hard case lipid don't help either. They can't get rid of the heat. 5 to 6 minutes is way to long also. How much did you put back on the packs after the run?
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I just went back and checked the timing on the esc and I have noticed a problem The card I bought to program the esc is not correct the website says 4 programmable settings which does not match the card. does anyone know the correct way to program the timing on this esc and what the stock timing setting isimage.jpgimage.jpgOriginally posted by srislash View PostPossibly the timing. Which motor do you have in there? If it is a D Wynd and the ESC is set to high timing the amp draw will heat things up. Another could be too big of prop and/or prop too deep in water. Pics of the back of boat would help for that.
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Looks like the prop is too far in the water.
On my cheetah, the center-line of the shaft is 1/4 an inch higher than the bottom of the sponsons.Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),
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The info that comes up on the prog box is from the particular esc being used, in the case of the T180 esc you will only get 4 sections come up when programming. The different numbered sections on the front of the box are only relavent when a different type esc is plugged in.Originally posted by TheGnMan View PostI just went back and checked the timing on the esc and I have noticed a problem The card I bought to program the esc is not correct the website says 4 programmable settings which does not match the card. does anyone know the correct way to program the timing on this esc and what the stock timing setting is[ATTACH=CONFIG]109582[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]109583[/ATTACH]
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By the way follow the instructions that come with the T180 esc as the info on the HK specs you have highlighted is wrong as their is no brake as they state. It should read 1 running mode, 2 lipo cells, 3 lvc, 4 timing, this is what the instructions that come with the esc say which is correct.
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I will have to measure the prop as for the kv not 100% sure either , I had it in the water for 6mins but probably on under wot for 2 or 3mins thinking i put like 5000mah back into each pack, I bought this used and am trying to get it right. Does the motor have any markings on it saying what kv it is maybe under jacket.Originally posted by photohoward1 View PostWhat prop? That's a high KV For 6s. Your pulling to many amps. Hard case lipid don't help either. They can't get rid of the heat. 5 to 6 minutes is way to long also. How much did you put back on the packs after the run?
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