I don't know if you saw my "paint" thread, but I actually found my CG was too far back- about 8" or so from transom. That may explain why it liked to go airborne so easily since the motor swap lol. I never checked it with the new setup, just *ass*umed it would be in the same spot. I ended up making battery trays and moving the cells forward a few inches. Also, that flip you saw in the vid knocked the rails loose, so I redid the rails and made an aluminum stuffing tube brace (mainly for looks, but also now I just have to loosen a set screw and break the glue free at the transom if I ever have to remove the tube). The trays are tied into the rails and it is all glued together with West Systems G Flex epoxy so the bottom is like a brick now and if it eve comes loose again, it's taking the bottom of the boat with it :D. The boat is much more stable with the packs moved forward and the CG back to the 9.5" mark..
Pursuit chine walking- advice?
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The temps on my setup are hottest at the motor plugs,
I get temp from 120f to 150f so I keep them loose and check them first.
The rails and trays setup look very good.
But I would like to make the motor mount a quick change some how,
So the mounting bolts come in from the top for easy in and out with the motor and mount.
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Originally posted by iop65 View Postit is not a good idea to bind the motor plugs together!
i think if someone would see that at the club i sometimes drive my boats, they would throw the guy and his boat in the water :-)
excuses for the sarcasme, but don't do that!I don't disagree, but the way they sit in this hull, I didn't want them flopping around. They tend to spread apart if not tied and I did not want them moving around so much, bending back and forth putting packs in and such, risking breaking them. I figured this was the better of the two evils. Not worried about a short and as far as temps go, the motor barely breaks 90*'s and the plugs are even cooler after a run (made sure to check all this :D), so I'm not overly concerned. Same thing with the motor cooler someone pointed out in another thread- I was aware but it was the only way it would really work out with this setup so I ran with it. If I were pushing things hard and temps were an issue, I would have done things differently, but this motor isn't even breaking a sweat in this boat. Thanks for looking out :)!Originally posted by martin View PostYep keep the wires separate to reduce temps if things start getting warm.My favorite search engine http://google.com
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I used the existing motor mount plate that I had, so it isn't slotted for the motor. I did not want to slot the rails to drop the whole plate in and out as that would weaken the rails in that area. If you go with a bent aluminum mount that bolts between the rails, you can slot the motor mount bolts so you just loosen them and pull the motor. I was going to make one this time around, but it isn't that hard to remove it as it is and I don't plan on taking the motor out often. Thanks.Originally posted by lenny View PostThe temps on my setup are hottest at the motor plugs,
I get temp from 120f to 150f so I keep them loose and check them first.
The rails and trays setup look very good.
But I would like to make the motor mount a quick change some how,
So the mounting bolts come in from the top for easy in and out with the motor and mount.
JoeMy favorite search engine http://google.com
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Finally got a video. Borrowed Tony's GPS and got a speed reading too. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zL0SpeeA-e4
Hit 54.4 mph. Esc batt lead connector de soldered so gotta look into that. Hopefully it was just a bad solder job.
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Boat's a nice strong runner. Gonna be a competitive P-Mono raceboat ['tho things get a little dicey in racewater as Tyler found out with his Pursuit-like Cyberstorm while temporarily leading the packOriginally posted by TheShaughnessy View PostFinally got a video. Borrowed Tony's GPS and got a speed reading too. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zL0SpeeA-e4
Hit 54.4 mph. Esc batt lead connector de soldered so gotta look into that. Hopefully it was just a bad solder job.
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2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
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Poor start timing by most all boats. Many off plane in the front straight.... just sayin'
Nortavlag Bulc 
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I've pretty much only concentrated on the finish timing....Originally posted by ray schrauwen View PostPoor start timing by most all boats. Many off plane in the front straight.... just sayin'
2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
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Looking good! Did you happen to see my videos in the video section here? I need a bigger area to run! Any idea if it's possible to determine speed from a video clip?Originally posted by TheShaughnessy View PostFinally got a video. Borrowed Tony's GPS and got a speed reading too. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zL0SpeeA-e4
Hit 54.4 mph. Esc batt lead connector de soldered so gotta look into that. Hopefully it was just a bad solder job.My favorite search engine http://google.com
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Depends on the clip probably. I imagine there is a way to calculate it if you can find two points of a known distance and time how long it takes to get from a to b. Im not sure if I saw the vids, ill go have another look, pretty sure I did though, think I noticed the 642 kept accelerating and then you made a similar comment.
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? ONLY IF THEY WORK 

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