custom Water blocks

[keithbradley]

You need to have a separator between inlet / outlet, otherwise the cold water will exit sooner that you want, not cooling the whole surface.

^^^This is a basic principle in dual pass heat exchanger/cooler design. Typically if a separator is not being used, it is on a design where the outlet and inlets are on opposite sides (single pass).
In a design like those shown in this thread, however (big square block with a common contact area, regardless of flow design), it's not going to make a big difference either way.

[paultbg]

I do not know the whole design / testing / manufacture story behind this product but I was one of the testers. My particular setup was Osprey boat with Leo 4082 1600 kv on 5S, Octura X445, 4x 8000 mAh batteries. I know that this is not the proper setup for this boat and I should have a HV setup. Still, when you compare the costs of a regular setup with T180 and a HV setup with any good HV ESC my decision is easy to understand. So, in my case, the esc was always thermalling after 2-3 minutes (using roughly 30% of the batteries). That’s why I have received one for testing. I have run 2 tests in the same day, few hours apart. Everything was the same, the boat, setup, batteries even the ESC was the same. The ambient temp was ~ 1-2 degrees Celsius warmer on the second test. The cell / voltage detection was disabled all the time.
In the first test ( the original top) the ESC thermalled after 3 minutes and the temp measured within 30 seconds at the heatsink level was 70-75 degrees Celsius.
Then I have charged the batteries and in the same time changed the heatsink, putting the new one.
In the second test with the new top I have been able to run full time (more than 8 minutes). The temp measured again in the first 30 seconds was 45-50 degrees. The batteries have also 25-30% power left. Sure, the cables between the ESC and motor where very hot (~70-80 degrees Celsius). Also, maybe an important detail is that I am picking the water from 2 pickups mounted on the transom, I am not using the rudder ones.
Now, I am not claiming that this was a pro test. It was just my test and those where my results. Maybe other testers have different results.
Also the guy told me that they have tested 3 different versions: this U shaped version, the full hole version ( no divider inside) and one version where the serpentine was M shaped. It seems that after the tests, this U shaped version was the best one from the lot.
As for doing in home, I am sure that is a lot cheaper but only if you know how to do it and you have the skills & tools to do it. That is not for me as I do not have any of them. I can not comment on the selling price as I do not have any details but as others have already flagged, it is not cheap to machine parts not to mention the cost of the materials : durall block, 4 nipples, bottom plate, painting, profit, etc.

[Jeff Wohlt]

The real key to any of this is CONTACT with Fets. I have seen where many do not ever come in contact with the cooling plate. Just my 2 cents. Any amount of water thru a plate will keep temps at bay. We even experimented with cooling the water in a closed lope system with a pump. Only needed if you are runninng in water that is 90 degrees plus. I still like a pump idea that is cooling as soon as it is in the water and then even idling back or stopped.

[paultbg]

A quick update with some images of the final product and a new lower price!!!





You can find the product here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=281233321371

Regards