There are better ways to check the caps than a huge connector melting spark.
A better way to wire anti-spark device
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These speed controls came with this installed and is something that is found on the new fightercat speed controls.Attached FilesLast edited by twissted; 10-02-2012, 01:59 PM.twissted from speed. Lead, fallow or get out of the way. Copy cats in back of the buss!!!
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I changed the picture so that it has arrows that point to the anti spark that these speed controls come with. also if you look at the youtube vids I think it is covered there as well.twissted from speed. Lead, fallow or get out of the way. Copy cats in back of the buss!!!
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Okay, I could see the resistors without the arrows but what I don't see is how the resistor lead connects to the batteries before the main power plug. Is there two ends on the black leads?Originally posted by twissted View PostI changed the picture so that it has arrows that point to the anti spark that these speed controls come with. also if you look at the youtube vids I think it is covered there as well.
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I disagree.Originally posted by siberianhusky View PostRemember if the anti spark is always connected you are adding unneeded resistance to the circuit. Basic electrical theory for resistance in parallel.
A 50 ohm resistor always connected in parallel is adding 25 ohms of resistance to the circuit, not taking account the bullet which will add a little bit as well.
Electricity 101.
Electric will follow the path of least resistance.
If you hook up the resistor at first it will flow thru and charge the caps. When you hook up the primary positive there will be no current thru the resistor as there is more resistance there than the primary wire.
So hook it up and leave it or remove it. Doesn't matter much.42" Osprey, 32" Pursuit, 26" Bling Rocket (rescue), Blizzard Rigger, JAE 21FE rigger, Hobby King rigger (RIP)
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Interesting thought
I hate the crack also, but I'm not at all used to it. But it is a very interesting thought that it provides confirmation that the caps are indeed sound. Think I,ll work without the extra leads for now.Originally posted by Fluid View PostKeep in mind that that "crack" you hate can save you an ESC. If you plug in a normal pack and get no spark, then your caps are bad and the ESC will blow soon. Seems to me a small price to pay to save an ESC, you just have to replace a pair of plugs once or twice a year. I wonder if there is a correlation between ESC failure and the use of anti-sparking devices.......
.KartRacer ~ Dennis B
Delta Force Pirate 35'~Leopard 4092~1480Kv~Seaking 180~2X6S 65C 5000 Mha Dynogy Lipo,Parallel
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Visual Inspection can turn up some failures, but it's not a sure bet.Originally posted by egneg View PostThere are better ways to check the caps than a huge connector melting spark.
A Huntron Tracker could check the Cap in circuit, but you'd have to map one out before it blew...and they are a pretty spendy tool.
Pulling the Cap to test is a real pain in the rear.
If I don't see a spark I discharge the Cap and try again. I've found the Caps bad on two AQ60 ESC's (older ones) this way and was able to replace them before any other damage occured.
I can think of better ways but they sure aren't easier!
What did you have in mind?This is NOT a toy?!?
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u r 100% correct only if the resistor was in series would the resistance be presentOriginally posted by Basstronics View PostI disagree.
Electricity 101.
Electric will follow the path of least resistance.
If you hook up the resistor at first it will flow thru and charge the caps. When you hook up the primary positive there will be no current thru the resistor as there is more resistance there than the primary wire.
So hook it up and leave it or remove it. Doesn't matter much.
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I am sorry sir but this theory is not true. explaination belowOriginally posted by Basstronics View PostI disagree.
Electricity 101.
Electric will follow the path of least resistance.
If you hook up the resistor at first it will flow thru and charge the caps. When you hook up the primary positive there will be no current thru the resistor as there is more resistance there than the primary wire.
So hook it up and leave it or remove it. Doesn't matter much.Last edited by fla350tt; 10-05-2012, 05:21 AM.
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I will chime in hear as I have a little knowledge in this area being an electrician and remembered hearing someone talk about this in class(when your older you like learning new stuff).Currnet will travel all paths of resistance, even in parallel circiuts. ex. your house lights, receptacles all are parallel. everything thing works at the same time and all have different resistances. so if you leave the resistor pluged in it will consume some energy from your battery.Originally posted by steveo View Postu r 100% correct only if the resistor was in series would the resistance be present
so better to disconnect the resistor
here is a good link for better explanation: http://www.mikeholt.com/technical.ph...ce?%20(2-8-2K)Last edited by fla350tt; 10-05-2012, 08:34 AM.
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Sorry to burst your bubble but in a parallel circuit the total resistance will be less than the smallest resistance - Ohms law.Originally posted by fla350tt View PostI will chime in hear as I have a little knowledge in this area being an electrician and remembered hearing someone talk about this in class(when your older you like learning new stuff).Currnet will travel all paths of resistance, even in parallel circiuts. ex. your house lights, receptacles all are parallel. everything thing works at the same time and all have different resistances. so if you leave the resistor pluged in it will consume some energy from your battery. here is a formula kinda hard to put in but, voltage squared/resistance=watts ex. 14.8x14.8 / 10ohms = 21.904 watts of wasted battery
here is a good link for better explanation: http://www.mikeholt.com/technical.ph...ce?%20(2-8-2K)IMPBA 20481S D-12
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