Don't know if this has been thought of before, but I made a diagram to show a better way to wire your anti-spark device. It will save time and money. No modification to the battery pack is needed.antispark wiring diagram.jpg
A better way to wire anti-spark device
Collapse
X
-
I make my own, however, Kintec Racing has them ready made, (on the lead page), with 5mm bullets for $15. Kinda handy cuz they're portable.
09173fb39b80f86c625b20d067347fc3.jpgLast edited by runzwithsizorz; 09-27-2012, 10:33 AM.
Comment
-
Remember if the anti spark is always connected you are adding unneeded resistance to the circuit. Basic electrical theory for resistance in parallel.
A 50 ohm resistor always connected in parallel is adding 25 ohms of resistance to the circuit, not taking account the bullet which will add a little bit as well.
After you plug in the main packs or after the caps are charged you should disconnect the anti spark.
The 2nd diagram is the wrong way to go about it. Can't remove the resistor from the completed circuit. yes it does charge the caps but then you have a resistor in parallel with the bullet.
Egnegs is good as long as it's removed after the caps are charged like he says.If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?
Comment
-
I too believe disconnecting the anti-spark connection is the right thing to do after charging the caps. However, I am struggling to under stand if you have a direct low resistance connection without the anti-spark connected how the total resistance increases because you then connect the 50 ohm by-pass. You may lose some battery power over time heating up the resistor but I don't believe the direct main without a resistor circuit is affected. Think about it. Just my opinion.Originally posted by siberianhusky View PostRemember if the anti spark is always connected you are adding unneeded resistance to the circuit. Basic electrical theory for resistance in parallel.
A 50 ohm resistor always connected in parallel is adding 25 ohms of resistance to the circuit, not taking account the bullet which will add a little bit as well.
.
Dave
Comment
-
Keep it simple and do what egneg did. All you have to do is touch the contacts for 1 or 2 seconds and throw the unit back in your tool box. The caps are charged and you can plug in the battery with no spark. One resistor does all your boats.Mike Chirillo
www.capitolrcmodelboats.com
Comment
-
You can safely leave it in a parallel circuit as the total resistance will be less than the smallest branch. Say for example the resistor used is 250 ohms and the bullets are 1 ohm. The total resistance is less than 1 ohm.IMPBA 20481S D-12
Comment
-
Might as well ask this here, and now, does it make any difference what side,(+/-), the spark arrestor is on?
My FC ESC came with one on the negative side.
Comment
-
No there is no polarity issue with a resistor so it does not matter which side.Originally posted by runzwithsizorz View PostMight as well ask this here, and now, does it make any difference what side,(+/-), the spark arrestor is on?
My FC ESC came with one on the negative side.
Describe the FC ESC circuit if you don't mind.
Dave
Comment
-
Yeah, I kinda thought so, but thinking of changing it over to the positive side anyway, for I'm a creature of habit.Originally posted by 1945dave View PostNo there is no polarity issue with a resistor so it does not matter which side.
Describe the FC ESC circuit if you don't mind.
Dave
You can see the small black wire, and spark arrestor in the first pic in this thread; http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=#post452876
Comment
-
Keep in mind that that "crack" you hate can save you an ESC. If you plug in a normal pack and get no spark, then your caps are bad and the ESC will blow soon. Seems to me a small price to pay to save an ESC, you just have to replace a pair of plugs once or twice a year. I wonder if there is a correlation between ESC failure and the use of anti-sparking devices.......
.ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
Comment
-
Fluid, are you saying you don't think the anti-spark is needed?Originally posted by Fluid View PostKeep in mind that that "crack" you hate can save you an ESC. If you plug in a normal pack and get no spark, then your caps are bad and the ESC will blow soon. Seems to me a small price to pay to save an ESC, you just have to replace a pair of plugs once or twice a year. I wonder if there is a correlation between ESC failure and the use of anti-sparking devices.......
.
Comment
-
I copied this from the Castle Creations FAQ Web site. So now I am even more confused.
When I plug in my high voltage battery pack (4s-12s lipo, 12-20 NiMH) into my Phoenix HV or Phoenix-125, etc. controller there is a large spark. Why?
The spark is your friend. If ever you plug your pack into your controller and you don’t see the spark, contact tech support at support@castlecreations.com or (913) 390-6939 and send the controller in for repair. Your capacitors will need to be changed. NEVER fly if you do not see the spark, especially with high voltage applications! The higher the voltage, the bigger the spark should be. Remember, the spark is your friend!!!
Comment
Comment