Balaenoptera Musculus. Upgrades?

[Southwest]

This is for the best, strutter, i'll pass.

[seehuusen]

You'll need a motor shaft - 1/8 adapter connector.

thanks mate, I believe it comes with it

From the site:
1/8" flex cable with end
$15.00
300mm long complete with prop end.

Thanks for the setup suggestion South Fork
Correct me please if I'm wrong, but .130 = ~3.3mm and 1/8 inch = ~3.17mm, to me suggests that they are very similar in strength?
Either way, if someone points me in a direction of a "kit" with all bit included, I'd just go that way...
I understand all the pieces that go into the drive train now, but I don't really understand the sizes and what fits together...
Looking at HK for bits, I find nothing of interest, e.g. a 4mm flex shaft, but none of the other bits... they suck! :p

Cheers
Martin

[masonis1]

I have a turnigy 2700 where it has a heat sink built in. If you lay the battery sideways it works nice. Or straight.

[Southwest]

this is for the best, strutter, pass!

[masonis1]

You'll need a motor shaft - 1/8 adapter connector.

[seehuusen]

thanks for that mate, I think I understand now :)

I've gone and created a little package from one of the better Aussie sites, $27.95 without postage for the flex bits
I can't seem to find a stinger or a strudder that would fit?!? Am I understanding it right, do you press in the size bushing you require for the thickness of the shaft you run? Or is there something else that would tell me what would be the right size?

Cheers
Martin

1/8" outer tube $4.00
http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index....roducts_id=119

1/8" teflon liner $3.00
http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index....roducts_id=902

1/8" flex cable with end $15.00
http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index....roducts_id=123

1/8" drive dog $3.00
http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index....roducts_id=138

M3 threaded prop nut $2.95
http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index....roducts_id=713

[srislash]

Thanks for your explanation Shawn, really appreciated! :)
It seems a 4mm setup might be a bit large for what I want, I like the idea of something smaller TBH, especially if I'm going to run it on 3S, I'll need a smaller prop

How do you know, that the shafts etc will fit into the stinger drive? It seems to me that the drive shaft is connected to the flex shaft, inside the stinger tube?
If so, are there different sizes of shafts, which then fits the 1/8th flex shaft, which fits a specific teflon liner, that then fit a specific thickness of stuffing tube?

Also, those bushes, are they needed at both ends of the stinger drive? Should I look for drives with these included, or are they readily available?
I assume they are there to take most of the wear and tear out of the drive as well as stabilize the prop shaft?

I get what you're saying Mason, I'm just keen to have all the gear here :D in reality though, I'm currently waiting on a whole heap of gear, but it's all for a new Jet boat build (this boat was bought also, but I've got no hardware yet)

Hopefully all of it will start arriving over the next few days, and I can start gathering gear for the new Musculus (or 757 High Wind or whatever they are called LOL)
Sorry for all the silly questions, I guess it will all be revealed in good time (I hope I won't be missing bits though )

Cheers
Martin

Some of the struts will have a pair of bushings,some will have a pressed in steel one,and this is the preferred http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...Sport-20-strut You can replace the bushing easily though they last a long time so long as you get your prop balanced well.If you should get a 4mm setup it can be drilled out to put that bushing in.I did it on my twin Gieco build a bit ago.

[masonis1]

I want to get back in the hobby everywhere. I want my boats good like they are now and I want my rc10 to be as fast as my boats and I want my crawler to get creepin again and well I want a nitro again.

[masonis1]

Good. Can't wait to see this build. I want to redo mine too.

[seehuusen]

Nice when u gunna start tearing her down? After the first run? Haha

I doubt it will last much longer than that first run hahahaha and even if it does it'll probably still be torn down

[masonis1]

Nice when u gunna start tearing her down? After the first run? Haha

[seehuusen]

YAY!! Look what the postie brought to me :D
And it's even in the Aussie Green and Gold colour!!! WOOT WOOT (don't actually think I'll be painting the boat now... maybe later)

Yes, the stock batteries are charging, yes I'm going to take it out this arvo :) 3S test/ burnout on the weekend, just gotta get the rescue boat sorted hahaha

IMAG0719 (Medium).jpg

[seehuusen]

Thanks for your explanation Shawn, really appreciated! :)
It seems a 4mm setup might be a bit large for what I want, I like the idea of something smaller TBH, especially if I'm going to run it on 3S, I'll need a smaller prop

How do you know, that the shafts etc will fit into the stinger drive? It seems to me that the drive shaft is connected to the flex shaft, inside the stinger tube?
If so, are there different sizes of shafts, which then fits the 1/8th flex shaft, which fits a specific teflon liner, that then fit a specific thickness of stuffing tube?

Also, those bushes, are they needed at both ends of the stinger drive? Should I look for drives with these included, or are they readily available?
I assume they are there to take most of the wear and tear out of the drive as well as stabilize the prop shaft?

I get what you're saying Mason, I'm just keen to have all the gear here :D in reality though, I'm currently waiting on a whole heap of gear, but it's all for a new Jet boat build (this boat was bought also, but I've got no hardware yet)

Hopefully all of it will start arriving over the next few days, and I can start gathering gear for the new Musculus (or 757 High Wind or whatever they are called LOL)
Sorry for all the silly questions, I guess it will all be revealed in good time (I hope I won't be missing bits though )

Cheers
Martin

[masonis1]

Gut the whole boat first to a bare hull. No electronics. Then you need a cutting tool like a dremel and you need to cut some off the plastic tabs like battery holders, and some motor mount tabs etc. we want a hull with seriously nothing else except some tabs that you can mount plates too. So the "stinger mounts on back" need to be popped off, and those ad the drive shaft holes filled too. After that is do, we can talk about starting to make the hardware fit. You can listen to Shawn about the sizes and it does help having the back stick out further and actually I think it would wheelie and flip if it wasn't longer.
To make a stand is easy, just need a block of wood.

I'm excited to see you start this build. I want this to not have the problems mine has. I'm going to try and find one if these hulls and start again same setup just carry over to a new hull and fix the problems I did.

[srislash]

Hi Mason,

Cheers, I understand why you'd need a large pod with your setup... I never thought of that, so thanks for pointing it out
I'm not sure adding a pod to the back of the boat is a bad thing.
I believe, you can have positive effects by having a longer distance between the bow and the prop (in this case extended a bit behind the bow).
What it does is to make the boat act like a slightly larger boat (handling wise).



Cheers
Martin

You are correct sir,

Hi Mason,
The suggested strudder (I heard that somewhere, stinger + rudder = strudder... LOL) would only need a pod of less than 20mm I'd say...
Could someone point me to a howto on how these drives are assembled? I find it a bit confusing with the different sizes, and some are the same diameter, but different names??
e.g. 1/8, 3/16, 4mm (which is also .150?) and 1/4 (although that just seems ridiculous in size?!?)

The part I don't understand is, how do I put my own "kit" together?
What diameters am I looking for?
I'm sure this is not as hard as it feels right now, but I've never seen it assembled, or dis-assembled...

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated :)

Cheers
Martin

You can run 1/8(.098) cable for props 35mm and under(or I always have).You can go a little heavier duty with a .130 cable(good up to 40mm props),or step up to .150/4mm cable(and this is as large as you'll need for this hull).All these can be fitted to a 3/16 prop shaft(this is the part that runs through the strut and bushings).These can be silver soldered or glued with Loctite 638/648(my preference).That strudder setup is probably preassembled which means they come with bushings(not all include these) and the cable/prop shaft are together.
If you end up with a 4mm setup you will need a prop adapter http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1030 to fit the most popular props.