P spec/ltd timing

[JIM MARCUM]

I have a P spec/Ltd motor from Aquacraft, but the box info doesn't say what type of wind it is. Is it a D or Y, and what should the advance be set for it? Help! JIM

[siberianhusky]

Factory esc timing is 10, been running mine on medium on a swordie 120, runs great there.

[monojeff]

I run my aqua sv blue can at 12 have also ran it at 15 but didnt see much diffrence on my 1/10th vintage hydroplane.
Gets warm but not to bad even when running full mile course.

Pretty sure I read somewhere the aqua 60amp esc is times at 12 but just checked again and he is correct the new motley says 10 for timing. Maybe the old ones were 12 not sure.

[T.S.Davis]

I run 9 on most of my Castle/AQ combos.

[Darin Jordan]

Jim... I'm not sure what your controller settings have, but I've been told, and have experienced myself, that anything over 10 or so just builds heat, without much benefit...

I have mine set to "Normal", or around 7-10, depending on which controller ...

Better to focus your performance improvements on setup and props... Find a prop that works, and play with THAT prop until you get where you want to be...

[monojeff]

Sounds like I need to lower my timing.

[JIM MARCUM]

Jim... I'm not sure what your controller settings have, but I've been told, and have experienced myself, that anything over 10 or so just builds heat, without much benefit...

I have mine set to "Normal", or around 7-10, depending on which controller ...

Better to focus your performance improvements on setup and props... Find a prop that works, and play with THAT prop until you get where you want to be...

Thanks Darin - will do. Boat is an Apparition cat and is being built for P Ltd Offshore racing - any thoughts on which prop would be a good start? JIM

[Darin Jordan]

Thanks Darin - will do. Boat is an Apparition cat and is being built for P Ltd Offshore racing - any thoughts on which prop would be a good start? JIM

I'll be happy to give you some suggestions... Let's get together on the 22nd and discuss...



You didn't mention which KV motor you are using... Is it the 1800 or the 2030??

[JIM MARCUM]

I'll be happy to give you some suggestions... Let's get together on the 22nd and discuss...



You didn't mention which KV motor you are using... Is it the 1800 or the 2030??

It's the 2030KV. I'm still scrambling to get 4 boats ready, as well as picking up my dive tanks today. I'll be at Legg Lake on Monday the 19th. See ya there or at the Ramada Inn. JIM

[Darin Jordan]

It's the 2030KV. I'm still scrambling to get 4 boats ready, as well as picking up my dive tanks today. I'll be at Legg Lake on Monday the 19th. See ya there or at the Ramada Inn. JIM

Tony would be a better source for a starting point. I've never run that motor in a Cat... My default prop for a starting point for that motor is always the Grim or ABC 42x55... It's safe, and shouldn't get me accused of suggesting setups that will kill people's stators...

[TheShaughnessy]

Tony would be a better source for a starting point. I've never run that motor in a Cat... My default prop for a starting point for that motor is always the Grim or ABC 42x55... It's safe, and shouldn't get me accused of suggesting setups that will kill people's stators...

I would think the 42x55 would be a good starting point as well, perhaps even a good stopping point. m445 is right on the raged edge of being too much prop for the 2030kv, i've taken a couple out with that prop, but some setups will be ok on it. Both could use a little mods for optimum performance.

Jim if it makes ya feel any better you are not the only one scrambling to get things together. Tomorrow is the last day of my semester, then its game time for my toy boats. Only have to build one boat though, rest is just getting stuff together and some touch up stuff.

[Darin Jordan]

Jim if it makes ya feel any better you are not the only one scrambling to get things together.

Not by a LONG SHOT!! I'm JUST about finished with my Sport Hydro, which represents TWO classes for this event... Will likely, however, get a test run or two on her before I start heading south.

And, I still need to paint my Lynx for OPC... unless I just run out of time and bring it in white primer... I'm hoping to get it in primer tonight. If I stay on schedule, I'll have it painted by the weekend.

Otherwise, I think I'm about set. Just some tinkering and soldering to do here and there to get some spares ready.

Looking forward to some fun!

[JIM MARCUM]

Not by a LONG SHOT!! I'm JUST about finished with my Sport Hydro, which represents TWO classes for this event... Will likely, however, get a test run or two on her before I start heading south.

And, I still need to paint my Lynx for OPC... unless I just run out of time and bring it in white primer... I'm hoping to get it in primer tonight. If I stay on schedule, I'll have it painted by the weekend.

Otherwise, I think I'm about set. Just some tinkering and soldering to do here and there to get some spares ready.

Looking forward to some fun!

Darin, while I had a lot success racing 10th scale brushed off-road trucks & buggies in the 80s, this will be my first ever NAMBA FE Offshore race. I expect to face a very steep learning curve there. I hope all you guys will have mercy on me - off the track - and help me absorb some of your knowledge.

I expect no mercy in the races. But, I would really appreciate it if one or more of you nice guys could help me with "loaner" N-2 & P-Ltd props. While I've learned quite a bit about how to build & setup a FE race boat - cats anyway - how to make a competitive prop is a mystery to me. I just don't want to be lapped twice in a four lap race.

No matter what, it will be FUN FUN FUN! Great people, great lake & great FE boats. I can hardly wait! See ya all in two weeks. JIM

[D. Newland]

Jim-what packs are you running for the offshore class?

If you're running 5000 mAh packs, you need to keep your amp draw to around 55 amps. This will drain 4000 mAh's out of your packs, including a little mill time. Meaning, X440 on the prop as a starting point as I don't think a 42 mm prop will keep the amp draw below 65 amps.

If you have higher capacity packs, then you can work up to the 42 mm props.

[Darin Jordan]

Jim-what packs are you running for the offshore class?

If you're running 5000 mAh packs, you need to keep your amp draw to around 55 amps. This will drain 4000 mAh's out of your packs, including a little mill time. Meaning, X440 on the prop as a starting point as I don't think a 42 mm prop will keep the amp draw below 65 amps.

If you have higher capacity packs, then you can work up to the 42 mm props.

David is probably right... Just for reference... the STOCK Miss Geico and the Mystic (1500 and 1800KV respectively), with the STOCK prop, average about 56Amps...