Drying out my 2028.................???

[m4a1usr]

I had the one from my 5b apart:

Your the guy I been looking for! Been toying with doing a 5B or T with FE. Not sure which version yet. Got a gazzillion questions to ask. RC monster has some info but nothing beats talking with someone who has learned along the way.

John

[lenny]

To hear about your boat,
But at least you can sleep now you found the rest of the boat.
Did you find any thing in it, That did not belong there ?
On mine i used wd40 and blow it out with air and left it in the sun to dry.
Than put some 3 in one oil on shaft ends an spun it some.
It sounds like its working ok.
I have some crc qd electronic cleaner i will try that out some time.

Hope yours works out ok.

[GeoVW72]

Agree with m4a1usr, taking the caps off is not that bad, you don't even have to remove the rotor to get at the bearings.
I had the one from my 5b apart:


The rotor is not as strong as he's thinking though, a good pair of pliers and a little bit of muscle is all that is needed to remove and install it.
Rear bearing is going to be hard to get out though.

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks guys, i took a 1717 rotor out once and it darn near pulled my arm off when i went to put it back in.........slammed in. This 2028 is so big i dont think i want to mess with trying it.

So, m4a1usr, it should be fairly easy to just take the rear off and oil it leaving the rotor in? I may just do that part.

[m4a1usr]

Thanks Guys for all the replies...............i'm really hesitant about taking off the rear endbell cuz i'm not sure if it houses the bearing and then the rotor may "flop/tilt" inside and bugger it up. Anyone know if the plastic cap just covers the end and the bearing is set in someway and can be gotten to and oiled?

Both end caps are made out of Aluminum. The rear one supports the bearing just like the front. To oil it its going to need to be pulled. Now if all your planning on doing is oiling them there is no reason you cant pull the rear one off. It will still be supported by the front one. And the rotor will not move to scrape against the windings. It will lay up against the armature steel plates towards the rear. But it will never see the copper windings if thats what your worried about. If it bugs you that much I can send you a piece of thin mylar. Its what I use to pull out rotors from motors. You just wrap it around the rotor air gap and carefully remove it as that allows you to pull it out even though its being forced against the steel laminations. But I dont know if I would "free hand" remove a 2028 rotor. Its huge and while in close approximation to the steel the rotor magnets have mucho force. Were it mine, I would use a vise to clamp the longer drive side of the rotor shaft. Then pull on the motor shell to get it off. Unfortunately putting them back together would require a strategy so as they not suddenly want to move instantaneously. That can cause something unforseen or unplanned to happen. Having access to a lathe where you could chuck things well and let things move in a controlled fashion would be about the only answer. At least to be safe.

John

[siberianhusky]

Water itself won't cause any problem with it running, they'll run fine under water, it's the possible crap in there that could cause the damage or moisture trapped in the bearing rusting. They don't dry out, you should see what comes out of dirt bike bearings, especially if you're riding through deep water and mud. They don't last too long.

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Guys for all the replies...............i'm really hesitant about taking off the rear endbell cuz i'm not sure if it houses the bearing and then the rotor may "flop/tilt" inside and bugger it up. Anyone know if the plastic cap just covers the end and the bearing is set in someway and can be gotten to and oiled?

Its GOT to be dry by now.......three weeks later and been sitting indoors with the shaft pointing down.

Yea, the vid is sure crazy the way it tilted in a millisecond.

[magnum500sw]

Wow. That's insane. Put that one up on the wall

[sanyijr]

hey Make-a-Wake,

A day or a week is not much difference. Corrosion happen fastest once out of water (unless salty). I would think treating it like a wet cell phone would be ideal. Get the water out ASAP. Spin it, shake it, blast it with dust-off, etc. Then, heat gently like on stereo reciever or something that emits slow gentle heat for a half a day or so, then lube bearings. And as i finish this, I see John has aswered similarly.... Should be fine. Good luck dude.

Sean

[Boaterguy]

any hull damage ? or was it flipped over ?

The bottom and transom ripped off and the whole thing got wrecked

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1469074

Edit: make a wake; is it too soon?

[LarrysDrifter]

I'd send it to John to take work with him.

[magnum500sw]

any hull damage ? or was it flipped over ?

[m4a1usr]

I can tell you how we do it at work. We get lots of stuff thats been salted off the "bottom". The motor needs to be disassembled. Rinsed with deionized water. Then placed in an ultra sonic cleaner for several hours. Then blown out with nitrogen and put into an oven for 24 hrs to dry out. Next step would to have the windings meggered. If it passes then the bearings get changed out and then back together. Thats the procedure for our IMA. If you havent sprayed it with WD or Corrosion X yet I would do your best to rinse the inside with good clean water before taking another step. Organic contaminants from the bottom silt/ mud are not good for the innards. With heat and time they react with the other materials as they decompose.

John

[1truckerdan]

I would take it all apart and inspect every part and surface inside....
Daniel

[siberianhusky]

Keep a close eye on the bearings, doesn't take much to start having them eat themselves.
I'd pull it apart and probably give it a good wash with water then WD or CRC it and replace the bearings, cheap insurance.
Used to use that maintenance for my buggy motors. Brushes and bearings all the time in those days.
The dash of your car is a great place to dry stuff out during the summer.