Solder temps & ?

[Steven Vaccaro]

I'm not sure which connectors you have, but with the connectors we sell the hole is about .130". So I will be ordering .125" solid rod.

[properchopper]

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Eventually you will get to where the connectors stay on just due to mass and high temp solder, but then What will happen is the wire insulation will melt and short out where they go into the can.
Take the end off the motor and put double or triple layers of shrink tubing on the motor leads, that will help, but it's not a fix.
When ya find the answer I'd like to know ?
T.C.

I routinely do this on spec motors, but where the wire spreads out into the windings seems to be the place that overheats and shorts. This spray epoxy insulating coating goes on and penetrates windings; I've used it on a Neu with the silicone noodle wire they're now using when a motor had the silicone split inside the endbell exit hole and so far/so good.

I use 62/36/2 solder from a local electronic supply store; flows well with a 40W iron and only $3.49 a tube.

It seems that the only 5.5 solder joint failures I've had came from poorly mating el-cheapo bullets that overheat from incomplete mating surface contact - I now hand-pick my connectors for the best fit.

[longballlumber]

Thanks Steven,

I will end up ordering the connectors from you since mine have half of the opening cut away.

Mike

[properchopper]

Thanks Steven,

I will end up ordereing the connectors from you since mine have half of the opening cut away.

Mike

I'm beginning to think that the cutaway connectors, which I once thought were preferrable because they seemed easier to solder, are not as substantial as the ones with the holes. I have tons of the better (holes) connectors on bonkered stuff that I'm going to recycle and use now that I got a small butane torch which makes them easy to unsolder.