bullets getting hott!

[m4a1usr]

As work we use an electrical jointing compound on lugs when we are bolting cables up to transformers & switchboard busbars. This is to increase conductivity at the mating surfaces. These circuits are rated up to 2,500 Amps in some cases. I've often wondered if a smear of the compound on some bullets would do any good. I'll have to nick some & do a few tests. Good thread, this one.
Cheers.
Paul.

Thats true for higher AC voltage operations. One thousand AC volts can jump an inch of open air gap between leads. A layer of conductive grease is not going to be an issue there. In RC applications we are operating with square wave DC volts emulating a AC signal and at potentials only in a max 50 volt and lesser range. There is a conductive grease electricians use when installing big breakers and large line fuses in transmission lines.

I was a licensed electrician myself during the early 80's. Lots of commercial work under my belt. These days I play with Hydrophones, Transducers and Arrays of all types in my underwater work. Low voltage connectors need to be very clean. We operate with voltages up to 1200kv and frequencies from 1k up to 100k. Power in excess of 15k watts. Carbon, dust, fingerprint oils and other contaminants are my number one enemy. It changes my impedance measurements. Not to mention it changes the frequency response of my sensors. Some of my ITT Cannon connectors cost over a thousand bux each.

Trust me when I say keep your connectors clean. You guys dont want to listen, thats another story. I'm not singling you out Paul, no offense made towards you. Its just your comment was a good example to use and convenient.

John

[Jeff Wohlt]

John...you are right..gold colored crap is more like it. Really depends on the contact surfaces.

[Rich]

rich, i just might change over, cause running the 442 after the 445 makes my mm seem like a tugboat lol

LOL I hear you there! I am running a Leopard 4082 1500kv on 5s2p with the x442. I have hit 52mph so far, but it averages around 46mph. I will try the m445 next! Let us know how it goes!

[785boats]

Message received & understood John.
Guess I'll save myself the trouble then.
Cheers.
Paul.

[properchopper]

rich, i just might change over, cause running the 442 after the 445 makes my mm seem like a tugboat lol

I'm not sure if this is on or off topic here, but today my Bud Naveed ran the 31" Arowana I built for him with the Leopard 2200KV, T-180, 4S2P 65C TP 5000's with one of my race-prepped X447/3 props & it ripped. Bear in mind that it was de- tounged, tip-rounded, mildly cupped and hub-cut. Boat totally woke up :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwzDzBUPn60

Temps were low after 1 1/2 min, even the 5.5's, but the crappy motor wires got hot enough to melt their insulation. There's the weak spot as I see it.

Here's a picture (a little fuzzy, sorry) of how I dressed the rather flimsy motor wires of a PB 1800 motor (yes, It has a Geico cooler on it.) A little time shrink tubing these wires can prevent melted insulation shorting problems which will take out the motor AND SC.( BTW this motor goes up for sale tonight)

[sailr]

I use the same. Plain old lead solder can melt pretty easy but the silver bearing does the trick. I have found that the higher the silver content, the hotter the soldering iron needs to be.

Same here...

I use Radio Shack #64-013 Silver Bearing Solder (62% Tin, 36% Lead, 2% Silver)

[sailr]

Good you posted the pics! I ran into the same thing! The HK 5.5's with the open side are a loose fit and constantly need to have the male prongs stretched back open. The HK's without the cutout (2nd from left) are a really tight fit! That is what I'm using now and really like them. It's too bad it isn't the other way around. The open side is so much easier to solder big wirese onto!

That's a good point John about the fit.

There is 2 different part number for HK 5.5mm bullets one set sucks the other set is ok. Ray S knows which ones are which, but I been digging some ebay 5.5mm bullets, I have the seller saved really REALLY nice connectors. Those 5.5s from ebay and the 6.0mm from HK have a VERY tight connection just like the CC bullets do.

On the left is the not so good 5.5mm from HK (i ordered the wrong ones), next are the ebay 5.5mm very nice good fit and clean look, 3rd is the HK 6.0mm Bullets slowly becoming my favorite really REALLY tight fit just like the CC last on the far right is the standard CC6.5.

I have slowwwwwly been converting my motor/esc connections over to the 6.0s on most of my other setups. The higher amp setups i run CC 6.5 or the 8s

[dana]

ok guys i cleaned bullets last night with rubbing alcohol and qtips. i gotta say i was surprised by the amount of black residue that came out, and surely some oils from my fingers. im glad i did it, and hopefully this helps a little bit

[dana]

I'm not sure if this is on or off topic here, but today my Bud Naveed ran the 31" Arowana I built for him with the Leopard 2200KV, T-180, 4S2P 65C TP 5000's with one of my race-prepped X447/3 props & it ripped. Bear in mind that it was de- tounged, tip-rounded, mildly cupped and hub-cut. Boat totally woke up :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwzDzBUPn60

Temps were low after 1 1/2 min, even the 5.5's, but the crappy motor wires got hot enough to melt their insulation. There's the weak spot as I see it.

Here's a picture (a little fuzzy, sorry) of how I dressed the rather flimsy motor wires of a PB 1800 motor (yes, It has a Geico cooler on it.) A little time shrink tubing these wires can prevent melted insulation shorting problems which will take out the motor AND SC.( BTW this motor goes up for sale tonight)

tony, i got some of those bullet boots from kintec and just cut on end, then slide it over the connections. maybe this will help. i definitely have had those wires get sticky

[lectriglide]

ok guys i cleaned bullets last night with rubbing alcohol and qtips. i gotta say i was surprised by the amount of black residue that came out, and surely some oils from my fingers. im glad i did it, and hopefully this helps a little bit

This is what I use to clean and maintain bullets. http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

[ray schrauwen]

That's a good point John about the fit.

There is 2 different part number for HK 5.5mm bullets one set sucks the other set is ok. Ray S knows which ones are which, but I been digging some ebay 5.5mm bullets, I have the seller saved really REALLY nice connectors. Those 5.5s from ebay and the 6.0mm from HK have a VERY tight connection just like the CC bullets do.

On the left is the not so good 5.5mm from HK (i ordered the wrong ones), next are the ebay 5.5mm very nice good fit and clean look, 3rd is the HK 6.0mm Bullets slowly becoming my favorite really REALLY tight fit just like the CC last on the far right is the standard CC6.5.

I have slowwwwwly been converting my motor/esc connections over to the 6.0s on most of my other setups. The higher amp setups i run CC 6.5 or the 8s

The better part# for 5.5mm bullets at HK is AM-1005, they have some in stock right now I think but, often go on B/o while the similar ones are always in stock.

Some guys say "I don;t see a difference", sorry but, I would need to be blind to miss the differences and even then I can feel how different they are.

[U1Racing]

no reason to buy castle, i would almost bet they are made in the same factory as the chinese ones!!!!