I ran some long rails in mine. But I was running the leopard 5692. It definitely is a good way to transfer the torque load.
HK Vanquish
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785boats, is that the power wire to your ESC from the battery sticking out of the hull? If so, how well does that work? Looks like a great idea!....unless you run in salt water, I guess.
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Yep.
It's known as a 'Safety Loop' I don't know about in the States, but here in Australia, & Europe too, it is compulsory to have one when racing.
It is mainly so that when the guy in the rescue boat picks up a dead boat he can disable the electrics to prevent any injury should the motor suddenly fire up.
Helps with prop changes & hardware adjustments too. No need to untape the hatch. Just pull the loop & it's all safe.
Cheers.
Paul.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
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I think North America is the only place you are not required to have some kind of battery isolation outside the hull for safety reasons, makes sense to me, much safer for the guy in the retrieval boat if he knows he can easily shut the boat down.
I retrieved a SV with an AM radio last year that kept starting up in the bottom of the aluminum boat as the radio glitched! Luckily I always place the boats upside down just in case somebody hits a throttle or something.If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?
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We run safety loops all the time including in salt water which i run on all the time. Their great as you dont have to keep untaping the hatch to switch off in between runs. Its their as a safety thing primarily, Your not allowed to compete in Naviga competitions without the external loop. It prevents someone getting injured from revolving props when the boats on shore should it get activated or a faulty radio or something else engages the drive as you only plug the system in when your about to put the boat in the water & unplug when it comes out of the water. Thanks.
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I have a pursuit and I didn't add any extra glass to it and it is holding up well with a leopard 4074 2200kv in it. This hull is FREAKING HUGE and theirs a lot of room to work in it. They did a good job installing the motor mount, better then any of the other TFL hulls I have. I am thinking off just adding FG to the bottom of the hull around the motor mount and the stuffing tube. I have no intention on doing rails at this time. I am hoping the extra FG will do the trick. It will be awhile until I get any work done on this hull. I have to finish 2 other boats first and come up with some funding for this badboy. I think I may roll with the CC 240 ice.Originally posted by 785boats View PostDiesel.
If the glass in the hull is thin, the motor mounts will twist the bottom of the hull from side to side & you will end up with cracks in the gelcoat under the hull. This is because the torque of the motor is transfered to such small contact areas in the hull with no bracing. I've also seen those freestanding mounts rip out of a 32" hull in a guys boat in the first 10' of it's maiden run.
I would suggest running a set of rails along the hull glued to the mounts & the hull & a fillet of glass added down each side.
I just gutted & rebuild a 32" Pursuit hull I bought second hand. Full of cracks in the gelcoat & the mount breaking away from the hull on one side.
I always run the rails from the transom to up past the front of the hatch with the battery tray in between them. also with a crosspiece to support the stuffing tube. Makes for a very rigid hull.
Here's a couple of pics to give you an idea.
Great looking boat you've got there, by the way.
Paul.
Thanks
$50 I think. Total price shipped was $128. I did not choose the expensive shipping method.Originally posted by forescott View PostWhat did shipping end up costing??
* Did you add any FG or CF to the bottom of your hull?Attached Files
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nice thread
was just looking for info on this boat, as I received mine yesterday, it's fun to know I'm not the only one with one
thanks to that, I will do some work on it to make sure its sturdy
I already have the ESC (Turnigy Marine 180A),
for motor, I was looking toward a Loepard 4082 1250kv and run this on 6s
any opinion on this set up?HK Vanquish, Leopard 4082 1250kv, Turnigy Marine 180A ESC, Turnigy 5000mAh 6s 40c, Octura x447 = 40mph
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Yea that setup would work. Would give you upper 20k unloaded rpm's the esc although a GREAT one IMO maybe the weak link in that setup. I am not a fan pushing esc's to their max voltage. Some have had good success running the 180 on 6s others no so good success. If you get a better esc like a HV esc, you could even run 7s and be good.Originally posted by Daniel2000 View Postnice thread
was just looking for info on this boat, as I received mine yesterday, it's fun to know I'm not the only one with one
thanks to that, I will do some work on it to make sure its sturdy
I already have the ESC (Turnigy Marine 180A),
for motor, I was looking toward a Loepard 4082 1250kv and run this on 6s
any opinion on this set up?
I plan on ordering the CC240 ice very soon. Tower says "On Order"
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hi daniel i have the same plan except motor is castle 1717 im using the turnigy 180 with full mods (water contact on all of the heatsink and double the caps) just to be on the safe side. ive also ripped out all the wood and will reinforce the hull with cf including the seam all the way to the bow and fill with small amounts of expander foam until its full about 2 inches back from front of the hatch then carbon fibre firewall and add some carbon fibre tubes under the lip in the side of the hatch (carbon tubes from shortening carbon arrows about 3 inches long) as they seem really flimsy also a thin layer of carbon fibre over the ply in the transomOriginally posted by Daniel2000 View Postnice thread
was just looking for info on this boat, as I received mine yesterday, it's fun to know I'm not the only one with one
thanks to that, I will do some work on it to make sure its sturdy
I already have the ESC (Turnigy Marine 180A),
for motor, I was looking toward a Loepard 4082 1250kv and run this on 6s
any opinion on this set up?genesis leopard 4074 2000kv t180/ hk vanquish cc1717 hydra 240/ fibreglass carbon hydro 38" build in progress
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then would you recommend to run a 5s with a higher kv motor?Originally posted by Diesel6401 View PostYea that setup would work. Would give you upper 20k unloaded rpm's the esc although a GREAT one IMO maybe the weak link in that setup. I am not a fan pushing esc's to their max voltage. Some have had good success running the 180 on 6s others no so good success. If you get a better esc like a HV esc, you could even run 7s and be good.
I plan on ordering the CC240 ice very soon. Tower says "On Order"
like the 1450kv or the 1500kv or even 4s with the 2200kv?
that would put the ESC in a safer voltage zone?
since I already have the ESC, I would like to still use it and make it last for a bit, and not burn it in my first run
and thanks for the adviseHK Vanquish, Leopard 4082 1250kv, Turnigy Marine 180A ESC, Turnigy 5000mAh 6s 40c, Octura x447 = 40mph
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If useing a 4082 1500kv whats the highest voltage you can go to to be reasonably safe on a T180 esc 5s & would 6s be pushing your luck in this large hull. Not sure whether 5s is enough in this hull though for reasonable speeds, Your thoughts. Thanks.
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I think the trim tabs on my Vanquish are mounted too low, even when moved all the way up they still stick out about 1.5mm below the hull.
I'm wondering if that is correct or I should drill the mount holes a little and move them up further.
Originally posted by martin View PostI have an Osprey which is the same boat & the tabs are mounted above the hull bottom. Martin.
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