A big mono hull that will be coming next week @Hobby king...maybe Im not sure

[ray schrauwen]

When in Rome do what the roman's do! Nitro guys don't care how much water gets in. They use a sealed radio box. With weight being less and less of a concern these days, a good size radio box that includes the esc is not out of the relm of possibility .

Very good point Steve. Something that we could learn from the fuel runners.

The only thing that needs water sealing really is the servo & Rx. If you have a well coated esc, the rest can get soaked and dry out fairly quick.

[martin]

Very difficult to do this in radio boxes on Mini & micro boats though where weight distribution of components is critical for correct cog & where every thing needs to be in a certain place to aid self righting as well. + you physically dont have room in the boat to get boxes into the hull. But i agree on larger boats we could do more with sealed radio boxes, Having said that ive seen countless nitro boats turn over & their radio boxes were full of water. So down to builder to choose or build suitable boxes that work. Batteries & motors still pose a problem if water gets in the boat though especially if you run on salt water though. I will still choose hulls that i can make water tight where i can make the hull with a double seal on the hatch area. Ive got a thing about seeing even the smallest drip of water in my boats & im looking for where its got in & rectifying it. If you run on fresh water as i done for more than 40 years with my tethered hydros (ic) with the engine literally full of water after each run when it stops where the boats sit so low in the water a simple clean through & then run again & no corrosion problems ever. I now have to run electric on salt water & the corrosion even on stainless bolts that are also coated with Corrosion X still rust. Please dont say stainless dosnt rust, It does because of the iron content. Thanks Martin

[Steven Vaccaro]

Very difficult to do this in radio boxes on Mini & micro boats though where weight distribution of components is critical for correct cog & where every thing needs to be in a certain place to aid self righting as well. + you physically dont have room in the boat to get boxes into the hull. But i agree on larger boats we could do more with sealed radio boxes,

I agree, a micro is just to small. IMO, sealing a hatch is easier than sealing a radio box. I dont like to have all the wires sealed with silicon coming out of the radio box with esc in it. It makes repairs on the fly much harder. The best step forward in this area has been PROBOAT hulls, their Tupperware sub hatch is a step in the correct direction. I just wish and have made suggestions to use some sort of hatch lock on the outer hatch, instead of magnets.

[dana]

I agree, a micro is just to small. IMO, sealing a hatch is easier than sealing a radio box. I dont like to have all the wires sealed with silicon coming out of the radio box with esc in it. It makes repairs on the fly much harder. The best step forward in this area has been PROBOAT hulls, their Tupperware sub hatch is a step in the correct direction. I just wish and have made suggestions to use some sort of hatch lock on the outer hatch, instead of magnets.

those stupid magnets dont do their job at all. my elam took on more water than a submarine. what a joke

[Steven Vaccaro]

those stupid magnets dont do their job at all. my elam took on more water than a submarine. what a joke

The Elam is a couple of years old. The new stuff is much better. The problem I find with magnets is that in a roll over the water suction pulls the outside cover off. I use a piece of tape on my geico and haven't lost one yet.

[martin]

On all of my boats i always fit a clear plastic sub hatch, If a particular boat has a next to impossible shape to fit a sub hatch i wont buy it. On the top hatch i always modify the hatch so that at the front of the hatch has a round pin coming out of the hatch with a corrosponding blind round socket for the pin to push into. Ive seen so many boats that use a pin or flat plate in this way but the socket the pin goes into is just a hole or slot cut in the glass fibre so you have another way for water to get in. Ive also seen to many hatches torn of boats in high speed flips. So i always use a positive fixing at the rear of the hatch. This is normally an ancored bolt coming up through the hatch with a nurled nut on top of the hatch. Where the bolt comes up i put a piece of silicon water tube slide onto the bolt just the right length so as when the top hatch goes on it compresses the tube & then screw the nut on so theirs no leak even around the bolt or threads. Thanks Martin.

[Husqy510]

Anyone know what these will be selling for? What would be a good and affordable motor/esc combo?

[martin]

Leopard 5692- 1340kv, Turnigy 180 esc & 6s lipo For a reasonable price build & probably mid 50s mph. Thanks Martin.

[Alexgar]

i tape all my magnet hatches to third time out i lost a hatch cover on my fastech that day bought some spray foam and foamed all my hatches

[Scott T]

What would be nice, is if, in the process of knocking off a nitro/gas hull and marketing it as an electric version, the design would not duplicate the hatch hold down recesses and exhaust pipe depressions so that the hatch could be taped down much easier. Take a good look at the rear of the hatch and imagine how taping over these irregularities to provide a waterproof seal would be, let's say, a PIA.

My brand new Delta Force 21Mkii is exactly the same. It has an FE hatch, but the deck has the depression still for the tuned pipe. But I've watched a friend of mine tape up his DF45Mkii which also has the depression, and it only takes one extra piece of tape. Not worth filling in and painting (the gelcoat is too nice to paint over!).