Originally posted by FloatDaBoat
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water cooling a esc
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so you opened up the inside like this mine will be a little differentOriginally posted by FloatDaBoat View PostJust completed my version of ScarabChris' idea for the SeaKing 180A ESC Cooling enhancement - - in pictures . . . .
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Originally posted by hyrulejedi86 View PostThat is GENIOUS! How did you attach the 90* fitting to the inside of the cooling area and what did you use to seal on the metal plate? I can't find that other thread you mentioned.
The bypass tube isn't 90 degrees, it's straight with 45 degree angles filed on the undersides to prevent epoxy from blocking the openings when the end plates were added (the 1st pic only shows one end beveled - - needed one end square to stand-up for the pic). I used a Dremel to grind the opening, then used a small amount of 5 minute epoxy to hold the tube until the end plates were attached using Marine Epoxy, which I added pigment to in order get the blue color (natural color is white).This epoxy is very viscose & doesn't run like regular epoxy does. It stays put where applied when used in reasonable quantities.
Properchopper's Herb Stewart Tunnel Hull build
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Originally posted by lectriglide View PostIf you haven't checked already, make sure to remove the heatsink to make sure they are getting good contact with the FETs. Many instances of only a few (like 1/4) of the total FETS contacting the thermal tape the mfg uses. Just want you to get the maximum benefit of your outstanding mod.
I'm aware of that possibility. After I run this ESC in the hydro I'm building, I'll check the temperature, & if it runs cool, I won't have to mess with the Heat Sink/FET contact patch - - why bother? Lots O Luck !!!
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Excellent idea!!!
What I noticed in mine is that the caps are the ones which get way hotter than the rest of the esc. The temps on the caps may be 140-150F and on the cooling plate 86F.Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
http://www.rcfastboats.com/
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Check it out
What do you think all sealed with honda Bond and red locktite SS water fittings and SS 10/32 the I opened the 2 inside water channel I think it came out pretty good for using hand tools Thanks chris
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Looks GREAT, but let us in on the secret of how you opened it up. Dremel with a looong bit?Originally posted by dasboata View PostWhat do you think all sealed with honda Bond and red locktite SS water fittings and SS 10/32 the I opened the 2 inside water channel I think it came out pretty good for using hand tools Thanks chris
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The screws and fittings are the key to keeping it sealed and bolted on. This is the best one yet I have seen.
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Yes Dremel 1/8" ball ,,, agressive cut . I have been a dremel hacker for over 25 yearsOriginally posted by lectriglide View PostLooks GREAT, but let us in on the secret of how you opened it up. Dremel with a looong bit?
I would of prefered to use a Mill but I don't have 1 LOL,,, I wounder if FloatDaBoat opened his,, I did not see any pics but then again how would that work ??
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It is normal for the caps to be the hottest part of any ESC. The outside of the cooling plate will be the coolest as it is 'insulated' from the ESC board. Internal ESC temperatures will be higher of course, sometimes by 40*F to 50*F from datalogging. Also remember that the ESC cools off as soon as you stop running so it was hotter than you measured.What I noticed in mine is that the caps are the ones which get way hotter than the rest of the esc. The temps on the caps may be 140-150F and on the cooling plate 86F.
Chris sure did a great job on the cooling plate, not that I'm surprised given his background.
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That is a Cool Mod. I may give it a go.
I might also try to make a Cap cooler, circulate water around them one way or another...
Nortavlag Bulc 
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If it is Aluminum, you can go over to Lowes and look around the hardware/tubing section. They have various lengths, bends, thicknesses ect.
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