Salt Water......

[Doby]

Boats are faster in salt water than in fresh!

[FighterCat57]

Lately I've started to coat the connections in liquid tape (vinyl) to prevent corrosion. I've also started using Tech Spray conformal coating on exposed metal and having a fair amount of luck preventing corrosion.

Still... If it's been in salt water, I can tell between it and a boat that's only been in fresh water.

I really like the plasti-dip and think I might start dunking my lipos in it. I've lost a few packs due to residual saltwater that corroded the foil and killed cells.

[martin]

I bought it fm local shop, but any kind of 24 hr epoxy should be fine. Run the epoxy on the esc and through the esc and use another cup to recover the epoxy which runs. and again and again 3-4 times and at the end leave the esc level. also for rx i use the same epoxy.
Please note that no any guarantee is valid with this way.
Finally I have an esc from MGM which has the waterproof option where the esc is totally encapsulated by a material

http://mgm-compro.com/index.php?cat=brushless-speed-controllers-race-boat-e-series

also all connectors must be totally sealed by 6mm silicone tubes or tape, cleaning the boat-hardware and shaft after each run and no problems

Do you mean 6mm silicon tube slid over the bullet conectors, How do you seal lipo plugs & other pronged connectors. All of the 24 hour epoxy ive seen is thick adesive type, Would the quicker drying epoxy that is used on glass cloth or carbon be ok.

[Krowbar69]

What about using silicone on the ends of wires.. easier to peel off if you have to take off the wires or something...

[DISAR]

Do you mean 6mm silicon tube slid over the bullet conectors, How do you seal lipo plugs & other pronged connectors. All of the 24 hour epoxy ive seen is thick adesive type, Would the quicker drying epoxy that is used on glass cloth or carbon be ok.

Yes, 6mm silicone tube slid over the connectors and whatever 2pack epoxy you can find with curing time over 1 hr.
I tried silcone at the ends if the esc but with the epoxy I think is more secure
Here is a photo with the silicone tubes over the connectors and with the mgm waterproof esc

[martin]

What do you seal the 3 prong connectors from the lipo leads with. A bit more difficult because of their square shapes.

[DISAR]

I spray the balancing tabs with electrocleaner CRC or better with "Wet Protect"

http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/graupner-wet-protect-6480-0.html

http://www.wet-protect.com/

(sorry it is in German)

[martin]

I spray the balancing tabs with electrocleaner CRC or better with "Wet Protect"

http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/graupner-wet-protect-6480-0.html

http://www.wet-protect.com/

(sorry it is in German)

I think Corrosion X spray does the same job, I know a lot of people say that Corrosion X is one of the best products around for this use. I think they also use it to coat the esc & rx with several coats instead of epoxy or silicon & also spray inside the motor on brushless.

[FighterCat57]

Yes, 6mm silicone tube slid over the connectors and whatever 2pack epoxy you can find with curing time over 1 hr.
I tried silcone at the ends if the esc but with the epoxy I think is more secure
Here is a photo with the silicone tubes over the connectors and with the mgm waterproof esc

marine epoxy typically has a longer cure time. I really like the silicone tubing over the connectors. I think I'm going to use that. I use vinyl tubing over the batt connectors while not in use to prevent shorting.

BTW- I've used Silicone to seal electronics and it always ends up peeling off somewhere and then basically let's water in and makes it much harder to dry... sealing moisture in and causing more corrosion. The epoxy approach has worked on a few models. Perhaps I'll try some Arctic Silver filler and make the epoxy itself become a cooling block... hmmm. ideas...

[martin]

Can you just use Corrosion X on esc & rx succesfully or is the epoxy method better