We will be testing a new coupler design for a Neu 8mm motor shaft. Here is a picture of the coupler.
8mm Neu Coupler spy shot
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I would have to agree with Mon Signor Doozie.....it appears that there is room for another 12 set screws, slightly offset from the existing set screws.It's a small world, but I'd hate to paint it!
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come one guys. 12 please 14 maybe 16 for sure !
lmao! just kidding.
looks nice Steve Should hold tight for those neu's
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Steven,
Have people been having issues with the 8mm Octura stuff that would warrent and new coupler design???Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
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No but I aways disliked having to wrench down on the Octura flex hex. Plus its quite a weight savings in the drive line.Originally posted by Darin Jordan View PostSteven,
Have people been having issues with the 8mm Octura stuff that would warrent and new coupler design???Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
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No but I aways disliked having to wrench down on the Octura flex hex. Plus its quite a weight savings in the drive line.Originally posted by Darin Jordan View PostSteven,
Have people been having issues with the 8mm Octura stuff that would warrent and new coupler design???Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
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Tell me about it. I have some motors way down deep in boats and i find it hard to get the wrenches in there.Originally posted by Steven Vaccaro View PostNo but I aways disliked having to wrench down on the Octura flex hex. Plus its quite a weight savings in the drive line.
I like this idea! thanks for posting
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There is no need for so many screws, and the engineering behind this design is faulty, IMO anyway. You should never have opposing set screws applying force to the flex cable; there is limited contact and high stress risers on a non-solid surface. I could live with with screws 90 degrees apart forcing the cable against the coupler, and non-functioning screws opposite to maintain balance.
Still, the best method to secure any round rotating body is with a collet. This method has proven its reliability in automotive applications for many decades. A good collet does compress the cable with time, but set screws cause damage to the wires. The solution for both is to use silver solder on the cable end for strength and durability - and the knowledge that the cable is an expendible item, eventually.
The angular momentum difference of a steel collet versus an aluminum coupler is very small compared to the motor magnets/armature/flex cable. You would never notice it under anything resembling normal running.
That all said, having more choices in this rather rare size is still good. :)
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I read that on the other forum. Thanks for the info. I can cut down on the setscrewsOriginally posted by Fluid View PostThere is no need for so many screws, and the engineering behind this design is faulty, IMO anyway. You should never have opposing set screws applying force to the flex cable; there is limited contact and high stress risers on a non-solid surface. I could live with with screws 90 degrees apart forcing the cable against the coupler, and non-functioning screws opposite to maintain balance.
Still, the best method to secure any round rotating body is with a collet. This method has proven its reliability in automotive applications for many decades. A good collet does compress the cable with time, but set screws cause damage to the wires. The solution for both is to use silver solder on the cable end for strength and durability - and the knowledge that the cable is an expendible item, eventually.
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I more than value your opinion, but on this one I'm going with my experience. The ONLY flex shafts I have lost have been with Octura hex's. I lost two. Both different boats. After that Ned S made me some straight couplers and I never looked back. I try to use a straight coupler in all the builds I do. So far so good, all of them have had opposing screws. The largest motor I have run with a coupler of that design is a Lehner 2250/12t with 32 cells. Its been a couple of seasons and its still holding like a champ.
Someone will be testing the Neu coupler in a week or so. We will post the results.Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
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For what it's worth, my vote is for the collett. I've had to bend some wrenches to fit into tight spaces, and I solder the ends of my cables. I remove and lube after each day's running & I don't beleive setscrews and cables can sustain their integrity after frequent uses. [One of our members stripped a setscrew at the THC and was out of the race for that day]. Just my 2 cents.Originally posted by Fluid View Post
Still, the best method to secure any round rotating body is with a collet. :)
.2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
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We have guys in the club that use both with equal success...... I think it all boils down to how you use what you have... If care is taken, either can work fine...
One nice thing about the set-screw style is that a person with the right tools actually could make these themselves... to any tolerance and spec they desire...
I wish I had the tools...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
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Ned did not make this one. But he does make nice stuff.Originally posted by Doozie870 View PostYou could strip 3 or 4 on this one and still be ok
It looks good to me, I dont know if Ned made this one, but he makes some great stuff that holds up really really well! :DSteven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
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