Question on bullet connectors

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  • BHChieftain
    replied
    Originally posted by blackcat26 View Post
    I bought a 150/230w gun from sears and I have never looked back since. Works great for soldering my 6mm bullets. Much aggravation was caused with my old less powerful gun. So much that I bounced it off the water heater......
    I could not find a 200+ gun anywhere in stock, so I picked up a Weller 140/100 gun, and it worked out fine.

    -Chief

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  • ozzie-crawl
    replied
    it does not matter which one is covered,both negative and positive can create a short
    but as long as one is isolated then no circuit can be created.
    care needs to be especially taken with carbon fibre in hulls as its conductive,if the pos and neg both make contact with C/F it can short the battery out.
    i put my batteries in my boat before i head to the pond, but i leave the caps on till i connect battery to the esc, once finished i replace caps straight away.

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  • MLJones8
    replied
    Originally posted by m4a1usr View Post
    Actually I only cover the male bullet on a pack. Since the female bullet already has heat shrink over the exposed surface only the male (neg lead) has any chance of making contact with anything. I use something similar to what lectraglide recommends but its sized 1/4" to cover the 5.5 male bullet connector. That way between the heat shrink AND the cap/cover on the male bullet the chance of opposing polarities meeting is highly doubtful.

    John

    Originally posted by ozzie-crawl View Post
    i use rubber caps they were a throw away item at a electrical manufacturers i worked at
    I too am using a rubber cap... However it only fits snug over the female 5.5 connector, this I assume is fine as the female connector is on my positive discharge wire.

    - If I didn't cover it w/ something then about 1/64 an inch or so would be exposed. Theres no reason to worry about the negative lead touching anything other than the positive lead, right?

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  • ozzie-crawl
    replied
    i use rubber caps they were a throw away item at a electrical manufacturers i worked at
    Attached Files

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  • m4a1usr
    replied
    Originally posted by MLJones8 View Post
    Great tip!

    There is no reason to cover the negative (male) bullet if the positive (female) bullet is covered as you have done correct?
    Actually I only cover the male bullet on a pack. Since the female bullet already has heat shrink over the exposed surface only the male (neg lead) has any chance of making contact with anything. I use something similar to what lectraglide recommends but its sized 1/4" to cover the 5.5 male bullet connector. That way between the heat shrink AND the cap/cover on the male bullet the chance of opposing polarities meeting is highly doubtful.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • MLJones8
    replied
    Originally posted by lectriglide View Post
    I use 5.5mm bullets and found some 3/8 inch "screw protectors" that fit nicely on the female connector as protective caps.

    http://www.lowes.com/pd_137984-37672...ategoryDisplay

    Great tip!

    There is no reason to cover the negative (male) bullet if the positive (female) bullet is covered as you have done correct?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeepers
    replied
    Originally posted by BHChieftain View Post
    Yes, I discovered that!!! The 40W iron barely worked to tin the leads, but it worked, so it is strong enough to apply the connectors, but it isn't strong enough to bond the dual hyra wires togethers-- so much metal that it whisks away the heat too fast...

    Do you think a 60W iron would work, or do I need to step up to the solder gun?

    -Chief
    I think a 60 would work, I am not sure,I use a 80 watt iron, I cant stand those solder guns to bulky.
    I picked up a really nice Weller 80 watt from OSE but I cant find it in Stevens store.

    Leave a comment:


  • blackcat26
    replied
    Originally posted by BHChieftain View Post
    Yes, I discovered that!!! The 40W iron barely worked to tin the leads, but it worked, so it is strong enough to apply the connectors, but it isn't strong enough to bond the dual hyra wires togethers-- so much metal that it whisks away the heat too fast...

    Do you think a 60W iron would work, or do I need to step up to the solder gun?

    -Chief
    I bought a 150/230w gun from sears and I have never looked back since. Works great for soldering my 6mm bullets. Much aggravation was caused with my old less powerful gun. So much that I bounced it off the water heater......

    Leave a comment:


  • BHChieftain
    replied
    Originally posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    One of the rules for electronics is.

    RED HOT FEMALE.

    Therefore the + wire from your batteries = RED FEMALE
    The - wire from the batteries = Black Male

    Input on your ESC
    + = RED MALE
    - = BLACK FEMALE

    The out put from your ESC going to the motor is the hot side = Female connectors.
    Motors will have Male connectors on them.

    Larry
    Thanks for the tip. Luckily, I did put male connectors on the motor, so the only rework I have to do is lipos and charger connectors...

    -Chief

    Leave a comment:


  • BHChieftain
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeepers View Post
    on your build thread you stated you used a 40w iron to solder with. your gonna need something heavier duty to solder those wires on the Hydra 240.
    Yes, I discovered that!!! The 40W iron barely worked to tin the leads, but it worked, so it is strong enough to apply the connectors, but it isn't strong enough to bond the dual hyra wires togethers-- so much metal that it whisks away the heat too fast...

    Do you think a 60W iron would work, or do I need to step up to the solder gun?

    -Chief

    Leave a comment:


  • Tangmo1
    replied
    I put FEMALE on both + and -. BLACK shrink wrap for - and RED for +, same with ESC MALE connector. Now I do not need to carry the cap protection for my batteries.
    This is because some kids used to play with it and plugged the male and female on my early batteries setup. Imagine what happen!!!!!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • TRUCKPULL
    replied
    One of the rules for electronics is.

    RED HOT FEMALE.

    Therefore the + wire from your batteries = RED FEMALE
    The - wire from the batteries = Black Male

    Input on your ESC
    + = RED MALE
    - = BLACK FEMALE

    The out put from your ESC going to the motor is the hot side = Female connectors.
    Motors will have Male connectors on them.

    Larry

    Leave a comment:


  • Chilli
    replied
    I hate soldering that CC 240!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeepers
    replied
    Originally posted by BHChieftain View Post
    Well, I was all proud of myself for soldering up two lipos and hyperion charge wires... I can see how having the exposed postive male connector could cause problems... back to the iron we go! (At least I have not gotten to the battery side of the hydra 240 double-wire esc yet...)

    -Chief
    on your build thread you stated you used a 40w iron to solder with. your gonna need something heavier duty to solder those wires on the Hydra 240.

    Leave a comment:


  • BHChieftain
    replied
    Well, I was all proud of myself for soldering up two lipos and hyperion charge wires... I can see how having the exposed postive male connector could cause problems... back to the iron we go! (At least I have not gotten to the battery side of the hydra 240 double-wire esc yet...)

    -Chief

    Leave a comment:

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