Originally posted by fweasel
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TP Power CM vs SVM
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Thank you!Originally posted by donhuff View PostIvan,
The TP 4070 will work just fine all the way up to 50,000 rpm. I thought that they were good to 60,000 and have a couple set up for that. I haven't had a problem out of them yet.
I also have a question about voltage. I like the 1650kv 8s model. But according to the manual, the maximum voltage is 30.8V when 8s is 33.6V when fully charged. How will this motor work at 33.6v?
It seems to me that the 1350kV 9s version will not have enough rpm at 8s.
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I would not worry about using the 1650 kv one on 8s. With full packs, that's 55440rpm. That's not a lot over the rpm redline, but in reality, when running on the water and proping to a reasonable level which would be 80% of that unloaded rpm. That would be only 45,000rpm, well below the redline. That's where I would prop it for heat racing. For a SAW run, you can go way below that 80% to get closer to the horsepower peak which is at 50% of max unloaded rpm. The motor will get hot on a run like that, but will cool down during deceleration and turn around.
That 20% rpm reduction gets the voltage down to around 27 volts. Which is just theoretical of course, but real world results that we have seen are pretty close to that.
I'm glad you posted TP's "chart of confusion" I believe most people look at this don't really understand some of the info. And I think this is where the phrase "TPs are amp hogs" comes from. If anyone has a question about these spec charts, please ask. I'll see if I can help with an answer.AmpDaddy
don huff
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Thank you very much for your advice. I bought the regular version TP4060 today.Originally posted by donhuff View PostI would not worry about using the 1650 kv one on 8s. With full packs, that's 55440rpm. That's not a lot over the rpm redline, but in reality, when running on the water and proping to a reasonable level which would be 80% of that unloaded rpm. That would be only 45,000rpm, well below the redline. That's where I would prop it for heat racing. For a SAW run, you can go way below that 80% to get closer to the horsepower peak which is at 50% of max unloaded rpm. The motor will get hot on a run like that, but will cool down during deceleration and turn around.
That 20% rpm reduction gets the voltage down to around 27 volts. Which is just theoretical of course, but real world results that we have seen are pretty close to that.
I'm glad you posted TP's "chart of confusion" I believe most people look at this don't really understand some of the info. And I think this is where the phrase "TPs are amp hogs" comes from. If anyone has a question about these spec charts, please ask. I'll see if I can help with an answer.
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What ESC did you use on this setup? My weak point now is Swordfish 240A.Originally posted by fweasel View PostI ran a 1750kV 4060 on 8S in a SAW cat no issues, despite their voltage limit on the chart.
I decided to start with 1350kv 8s measuring the rpm and temperature. If everything is Ok I will remount the motor to 1500 kW or more.
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Wow! 674A? How is this possible?Originally posted by donhuff View PostIvan,
If you'll use the Castle XLXII, you won't have any trouble . That esc is hard to beat. I have pulled 674 amps on 4s SAW passes.
I like this ESC, but according to the specifications its operating current is only 180A (which is strange), and it is quite heavy.
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I ran a 250A MGM, and it was really hot after only a few passes. When I re-rig that boat, I'll put in a Castle Hydra X8S. The XLX2 would be a little tight and more headroom than I really need.Originally posted by Ivan Kozyakov View PostWhat ESC did you use on this setup? My weak point now is Swordfish 240A.
I decided to start with 1350kv 8s measuring the rpm and temperature. If everything is Ok I will remount the motor to 1500 kW or more.Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
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I like Castle ESCs, but how can I understand their real maximum current? For example, Hydra X8S according to the specification is only up to 140A.Originally posted by fweasel View PostI ran a 250A MGM, and it was really hot after only a few passes. When I re-rig that boat, I'll put in a Castle Hydra X8S. The XLX2 would be a little tight and more headroom than I really need.
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I wasn't aware that they listed a max amps rating.
The X8S will easily do 270-280 continuous and I've hit 330A once, but it gave me a warning that if I continued at that level, permanent damage will result.
The XLX2 I,ve done 6 laps at 375A and no problem.AmpDaddy
don huff
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Same here. The X8S is just fine if you're gonna stay below 300A. If you're gonna play north of 300A, get the XLX2. In our club, guys have made 6 laps at 475A and the XLX2 is happy to oblige.Originally posted by donhuff View PostI wasn't aware that they listed a max amps rating.
The X8S will easily do 270-280 continuous and I've hit 330A once, but it gave me a warning that if I continued at that level, permanent damage will result.
The XLX2 I,ve done 6 laps at 375A and no problem.
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