This is my rotor at the moment... Continue to use?

[Jeremy]

Hi folks,

Time for my periodic motor bearing maintenance of the Pro Boat Sonicwake 36 (V1), and this is what the rotor looks like:

Rotor.jpg

It's from the stock Dynamite 3674 1900KV motor, and it was running fine before the maintenance, temps ok, although the bearings started to get noisy.
Should I just reassemble and continue to use, or is this rotor on borrowed time...

Thanks.

[jkflow]

You had water intrusion and your stators are rusty, that leaked onto the rotors. No wonder your bearings are done.
Should be ok to use, I doubt you are able to find new rotors as replacements. I'd buy a spare new motor in the near future to avoid shortages and downtime.

[Jeremy]

Thanks. And the slightly frayed bits on there, should that be ok as well?

[Panther6834]

I 2nd a new motor. SSS (by TFL) & Leopard motors are both great choices, and affordable. If you don't mind spending somewhat more, I definitely recommend TP motors. All three brands are available from Steve at OSE.

Don't know if you are still running the stock ESC and/or prop...but, if 'yes' on both, and running 4S, you could consider going with a slightly higher kv motor...say, something in the 2000-2350kv range...which would allow you to gain a little speed, while still keeping the electronics somewhat cool. If 'yes' on both, but running 6S, you should consider going with a lower kv motor, so as to not overheat anything. Alternately, for 6S, you could stick with the same general kv, but upgrade the ESC (ex. Hobbywing Speaking 180A).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Jeremy]

I 2nd a new motor. SSS (by TFL) & Leopard motors are both great choices, and affordable. If you don't mind spending somewhat more, I definitely recommend TP motors. All three brands are available from Steve at OSE.

Don't know if you are still running the stock ESC and/or prop...but, if 'yes' on both, and running 4S, you could consider going with a slightly higher kv motor...say, something in the 2000-2350kv range...which would allow you to gain a little speed, while still keeping the electronics somewhat cool. If 'yes' on both, but running 6S, you should consider going with a lower kv motor, so as to not overheat anything. Alternately, for 6S, you could stick with the same general kv, but upgrade the ESC (ex. Hobbywing Speaking 180A).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

OK, a new motor it is. I actually have a new Leopard 3674 1900KV laying around, but I need to solder the proper size bullets on. But ok, it is what it is.

I actually do have the Seaking 180A in the boat, running on 6S with an Octura M445 sharpened/balanced.
Got 90 kmh/56 mph out of it, and everything runs relatively cool, despite people saying that prop is too much on 6S.

[Panther6834]

OK, a new motor it is. I actually have a new Leopard 3674 1900KV laying around, but I need to solder the proper size bullets on. But ok, it is what it is.

I actually do have the Seaking 180A in the boat, running on 6S with an Octura M445 sharpened/balanced.
Got 90 kmh/56 mph out of it, and everything runs relatively cool, despite people saying that prop is too much on 6S.

With the stock motor AND stock ESC, that prop would probably be "too much"...but, the Seaking is more efficient, and runs cooler. With the Leopard motor & Seaking , you should (hopefully) be "plenty good". I've run that prep on the SW, with Seaking 180A & SSS 1920kv...and, while slightly warm, was still "good enough".

As I'm tired of constantly having to switch props whenever I switch between 4S & 6S, I'm taking my 'backup' SW hull, and building it up into a second boat - one will be dedicated 4S, and the other will be dedicated 6S. Haven't decided which will be which, but here's the 'backup' hull.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Bande1]

I have leopard motors. I have several TP motors. I can tell you with confidence Rocket RC motors are worth getting and are the least expensive out there that I know of. My Rocket motors perform extremely well for what they are. little 3670 takes 2200w all day long.

big dog TP motors
IMG_20230727_100524.jpg

[jkflow]

Those frayed bits and rotors should be ok for now. I have similar looking ones, and they still keep on ticking. I do have a spare motor as well. If you re-use, make sure you clean the stator first. Some alcohol and maybe some light oil on the inside, just to coat and don't slather it on. Just need to address surface rust, and you don't want it to drip on rotors.
It is a Kevlar wrap and a little fray can get out of hand eventually, very hard to predict, anywhere between years and next run Nothing bad will happen except for an immediate stop of the motor.

[Jeremy]

Thanks for all the replies.
I have finished and installed the Leopard 3674-1900KV so I'll see how long that motor will last me in the existing Sonicwake 36 setup (HW SK180 / 6S / Octura M445).
The thing about those motors, as well as the stock Dynamite one, is that they all have open front and end bells. The boat always takes on some water inside, especially when flipped and self righting. So those motors will always swallow up some water, being a feast for the bearings/rotor/stator, etc.
Thought about closing up all holes with electrical tape, but if water would get in anyway, it wouldn't have a way to get out, so I just left it as it is.

[Panther6834]

The boat always takes on some water inside, especially when flipped and self righting.

If you're SW is "always taking on some water", seems you might have another 'problem' needing to be solved. I rarely have more than a spoonful (if any)...and, on those rareoccasions I have now than that, it's usually been because I forgot to reinsert the drain plug. Of course, I already seal the hatch with hatch tape...I never rely in just the four thumb screws.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Jeremy]

Well, that might just be it, as I never use the hatch tape on the Sonicwake, and I indeed >rely< on the 4 thumb screws. Water intake inside the hull isn't all that bad when there was no flip, but when there was, there's def more thaan a spoonful.

[jkflow]

Hatch tape is almost a must-do on any boat. A little water in your bearings and you have a new set of problems and don't even think you can use WD40, it will destroy bearings with excessive cleaning after use.

[Xrayted]

Same issue on my Pro Boat Miss Geico Twin. You MUST use hatch tape in addition to the thumb screws, or it will leak immediately if flipped over. Bone dry even after an hour upside down testing in my garden tub when using tape

[ray schrauwen]

If you do run without it and flip, don't right the boat without opening the hatch while upside down so most of the water falls out so not to drench everything. Even with tape this is still a good idea.

[Panther6834]

If you do run without it and flip, don't right the boat without opening the hatch while upside down so most of the water falls out so not to drench everything. Even with tape this is still a good idea.

Sorry, but this isn't possible. Are you not aware that the SonicWake is a self-righting boat? When the body flips upside-down, the water chamber leads it to righting itself, usually in less than 10 seconds.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place