Originally posted by donhuff
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" did I get screwed" follow up report
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The crap always sticks to my wires. What is bst way to clean it off Don?Originally posted by donhuff View PostYour not gonna like the answer!!!
I use a 3" diameter iron rod with a well bored into one end, filled with 3 parts LYE and one part salt. Put a torch on it and heat until it is liquid and blazing ass hot. Dip the wires in it and wait till it stops boiling, then dip slowly into water to cool before the lye has time to harden. Wash off with soapy water and solder pretty soon or the copper will corode. BE CAREFUL!
Ray sez he uses an iron pipe cap and that should work fine too.
Nortavlag Bulc 
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OH, just wait until you get a tiny bit of it under one of your fingernails.. Ouch che mama!!! and it takes three days for it to dissolve and go away.
If it's sticking and solidifying on your wire, you probably don't have it hot enough. After it melts, keep the heat on for a while before sticking the wire in. When it's right, the boiling will be vigorous but will remain low to the surface, and the fumes will ignite in flames instantly, but remain very short. The boiling wont last 10-15 seconds, and the wire should come out pretty clean. Have a container of water close and stick it in there quick as you can before it has time to harden. Be warned that the water will erupt when you do this so be prepared to get splattered with little drops of hot water/lye mixture. Wear protection or turn away.
Then I use spray cleaner like spray 9 or 409 and soak it, brush with a wire toothbrush, rinse with water. Blow dry, flux and solder.
It's real simple, don't know why your having a problem??? LOLAmpDaddy
don huff
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It wasn't helping that I did it in cold weather.
I don't think I cleaned the wires well on one motor I did. 2 out of the 3 wires take solder well the one not as well.
My brother gave me a big solder pot. I might fire it up and soak the ends in there a while and maybe recover it.
I sent you the motor we talked about before I re read this.
I have a couple Leopards that could use some of your TLC too and could have went in the same shipment.
Making the steel outer form would be too much trouble for me but I could do the aluminum parts no problem. I would have to rig up a press with a car jack or something and then I'd have to source wire and most likely I would only find it in the USA.
Depending on how long this CV-19 stuff lasts I could possibly get around to it.
I wish I was living in the USA sometimes.
Nortavlag Bulc 
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I don't know what you mean by "steel outer form"
Yes, some of the Leopards really wake up after a rewind, mostly the .5 (half) winds. Because they have only half as much wire as they will hold on one set of the coils. But all leopards use that cheep Chinese wire with the low temp insulation, and none of them have as much wire in them as they will hold.
I use a one ton arbor press from Harbor Freight, because that's what I have. You could make a press out of two by fours that would work just as well. It doesn't take that much pressure.
I use Temco brand wire. Surely you could find someone in Canada that sells good. Just make sure it is 200*C rated, that's the big difference.AmpDaddy
don huff
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This old thread came back to life with a post. Don, teach me and I'll write the damned book. I may not be the sharpest crayon in the box but I think I've shown I can type.......a bit.Originally posted by donhuff View PostHA!!!
I won't live long enough to write a book. It took me half a day to write these few paragraphs and add the pictures.Noisy person
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Thanks for sharing Don,
How about some pics and descriptions of those rewound AQ motors with modified rotors.
-TylerTyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
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O.k. my mistake. The outside 'former' is aluminum. I probably used the term former incorrectly. You use it to keep the windings from squishing out too wide when compressing the windings.Originally posted by donhuff View PostI don't know what you mean by "steel outer form"
Yes, some of the Leopards really wake up after a rewind, mostly the .5 (half) winds. Because they have only half as much wire as they will hold on one set of the coils. But all leopards use that cheep Chinese wire with the low temp insulation, and none of them have as much wire in them as they will hold.
I use a one ton arbor press from Harbor Freight, because that's what I have. You could make a press out of two by fours that would work just as well. It doesn't take that much pressure.
I use Temco brand wire. Surely you could find someone in Canada that sells good. Just make sure it is 200*C rated, that's the big difference.
I could do this.
I can't write for shiznits, let me wind the motors.
Nortavlag Bulc 
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"How about some pics and descriptions of those rewound AQ motors with modified rotors."
I'll Try to do that Tyler. But I usually wrap the rotors with carbon fiber and you won't be able to see the magnets. I'll see if I have some that didn't work out, in my "motor parts boxes" and I can take the carbon off and show the magnets.
PS. I like the little sneeky looking fellow.AmpDaddy
don huff
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OH OK, Now I know what you mean. Yeah, I guess a former would be a good name for them. Mold and die too I guess.
But yeah, make them out of aluminum, no need for the strength of steel. I bet you could make them out of wood and they would work ok, cause like I said, you don't press all that hard. But it would need to be a hard wood like oak, or maybe maple. And also like I have said before, some times you don't have to press, only if you have so much wire that by being loose, it won't fit back into the case.
For the first few rewind jobs, I recommend not trying to "fill it up" to the brim with wire. It would be better to hone your "threading?" skills, and getting the motor back to running condition. Then after getting the hang of replacing the wire (correctly!!!) and without shorts, you can go for the "fill it up" process.AmpDaddy
don huff
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Hey Don,
You need to get yourself some "mag film" and you can show off your rotors without removing the sleeve wrap.
Add this to your next Amazon order. You will thank me.
https://www.amazon.com/CMS-MAGNETICS.../dp/B000UV6ZPSTyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
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You can use that to see if a rotor has lost any Gauss over time. Check one rotor vs another, etc.... That's cool.
Nortavlag Bulc 
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Don - you had made a comment earlier about difference between "Y" and "D" winds.
I am looking at two different motors for a twin build. One setup would be a pair of SSS -1200 kv 5D. the other setup a pair of TP - 1170 kv 4Y ?
Any body else may comment also.
LarryPast NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
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