I have NEVER seen this happen to a motor!!! Fixable????????

[jkr]

648 would be the strongest in the retainer series. Kinda makes you wonder with those cheap motors imagine spinning a 40k rpm and coming apart inside hull aucchh.

Haha look my rotor did 200mph!

[m4a1usr]

Well now I forget how far the darn thing was pushed into the can.............It doesnt have a ridge inside to push it to...............I guess I can put it back together then take off one end and mark a line with a sharpie.

I would use the rotor as your guide. That way you can align the magnets to the steel laminations in the stator. And it would perform the best as well.

John

[tiqueman]

That looks like the cheap TP's that got sold. You could use the 638 retaining compound that we use for flex shafts.I think it is good to 250 celsius.Probably have to move pretty quick with it though.

Locktite 648 for engine sleeves and bearings.
Resists to hight heat and vibrations.

648 would be the strongest in the retainer series. Kinda makes you wonder with those cheap motors imagine spinning a 40k rpm and coming apart inside hull aucchh.

Srilash, didnt you mention to me that the 638 replaced the 648 as the 648 was discont.? I still have a 1/2 bottle of 648 and hope I can find more. that stuff is more than amazing.

[martin]

Loctite 638 & 648 are still made, 648 is a higher temp than 638.Problem with some loctites their only available in larger bottles which are very expensive to only use once or twice as they also only have shelve life of 2 years.
638 150c - 302f
648 175c - 347f
620 230c - 446f

[srislash]

Srilash, didnt you mention to me that the 638 replaced the 648 as the 648 was discont.? I still have a 1/2 bottle of 648 and hope I can find more. that stuff is more than amazing.

That is what the guy at Acklands-Grainger told me. I believe the 648 is just that much harder,but not sure as I didn't get the chance to use it.
I am plenty impressed with the 638 though,it has held with all I've asked of it.

Oops just caught Martin's post. And,yup,only a big $70 bottle.If anyone needs a flex/prop shaft bonded....

[nata2run]

By the way, this here can happen any day to any motor that has a one piece flex, as the prop is putting all the power on the rear bearing of the motor. Only question what gives first. Can even be your mount popping out of the hull. Imagine in a flash it would rip the hull apart. Solution, over engineer your motor mounts and install a thrust bearing so all the force in on the mount itself.

[MarkF]

I use to wind and assemble my own motors. Use high temp jb weld. Rub a thin layer on the stator and one inside the can. Just center it in the can as best as you can. Wipe the excess when done. The rotor will center itself inside the stator. The locktite might work as well but I never tryed it because of the expense. Also make sure you clean everything with acetone, scuff things up a little and watch which way the motor wires are lined up in conjunction with the front mounting holes on the motor.
Mark

[ray schrauwen]

Yeah, but JB weld is too thick for this application.

Not really.

[ray schrauwen]

Thanks for the post, I'll check my motor before I run it.

[Make-a-Wake]

I use to wind and assemble my own motors. Use high temp jb weld. Rub a thin layer on the stator and one inside the can. Just center it in the can as best as you can. Wipe the excess when done. The rotor will center itself inside the stator. The locktite might work as well but I never tryed it because of the expense. Also make sure you clean everything with acetone, scuff things up a little and watch which way the motor wires are lined up in conjunction with the front mounting holes on the motor.
Mark

Thanks, I'll give it a shot!

[Fluid]

By the way, this here can happen any day to any motor that has a one piece flex, as the prop is putting all the power on the rear bearing of the motor...

Uh, no. What you describe would cause the endbell to pop off, virtually impossible to happen with newer Neu, Leopard or Lehner motors - but entirely possible with motors having glued-on endbells. There is no thrust taken by the windings and stator, they are glued to the can. This type of problem was due to glue failure, likely from a poor glue job and heat.

I stopped using thrust bearings years ago, when I stopped using BL motors with glued-on endbells. Even running up to 90 mph, I haven't popped off an endbell or had other motor damage (besides a windings short in a ProBoat motor). Improperly assembled (most I have seen are) they will cause more problems than they solve.


.

[nata2run]

Uh, no. What you describe would cause the endbell to pop off, virtually impossible to happen with newer Neu, Leopard or Lehner motors - but entirely possible with motors having glued-on endbells. There is no thrust taken by the windings and stator, they are glued to the can. This type of problem was due to glue failure, likely from a poor glue job and heat.

I stopped using thrust bearings years ago, when I stopped using BL motors with glued-on endbells. Even running up to 90 mph, I haven't popped off an endbell or had other motor damage (besides a windings short in a ProBoat motor).


.

LOL I had this idea that the endbell came off. ok my bad ... but explain please how it would be impossible theese days? I'm building a mystic with twin lehners and I will definetly be using the thrust bearings. Im running 1717's in my other mystic, and the shaft is all over the place. I wish I had used the thrust bearings for that. but hey, everyone to their own :) leo motors (the ones I have are attached by 4 M1 screws) I really dont think I trust that with 4 HP.

[Make-a-Wake]

Uh, no. What you describe would cause the endbell to pop off, virtually impossible to happen with newer Neu, Leopard or Lehner motors - but entirely possible with motors having glued-on endbells. There is no thrust taken by the windings and stator, they are glued to the can. This type of problem was due to glue failure, likely from a poor glue job and heat.

I stopped using thrust bearings years ago, when I stopped using BL motors with glued-on endbells. Even running up to 90 mph, I haven't popped off an endbell or had other motor damage (besides a windings short in a ProBoat motor). Improperly assembled (most I have seen are) they will cause more problems than they solve.


.

Yeah, there was no pressure on the windings and the endbells are actually bolted on. Just a crappy glue job................ I never run thrust bearings either, I run a teflon washer between the dog and the stinger though.

[JIM MARCUM]

What is the KV of your HK 5692?

I bought one of the 1320KV motors (before HK ran out) cuz I couldn't resist the 1/2 less $ than a Leopard price. I'll give it a try on 8S2P and see how it works out compaired to my Leopards. JIM