Soldering wires on turnigy motor.Help

[maxmekker]

Well I'm having a hard time getting the solder to grip the masive wires on this turnigy motor. I thought I'd replace them with some softer ones I had, and in the same time make them longer. So I just cut and started,but no luck. Any tips on how to make this work. Any cleaning fluid I could use ore another type of solder ?
All I had now was ironside.

[Doby]

A good RMA Flux would probably help, I use it and it eats its way through almost anything.
Just be sure to clean off the residue afterward as it is corrosive.

Steel wool can help as well, but a good flux is your best bet.

[maxmekker]

I have some flux , but it won't grip no matter what. I spread the cabels and I removed the 'residue' but no luck. Will take it to work tomorrow and try a small torch lamp on it.

[maxmekker]

Got a pm that I should try to heat asprin tablets and dip the cabel in that. will try.

[JimClark]

probably coated wire

[Alexgar]

acid flux?

[ray schrauwen]

NO!

You are trying to strip MAGNET wire and it has a VERY tough coating on it. You would need to unwind the wires individually and either take a hobby knife to scratch/scrape it off or sand it off.
You can also use heat to burn it off but, that messes with the coppers strength.

Actually, in hind sight, this is not a regular practice on these types of wires exiting an outrunner because they are the WINDINGS of the motor!!

Changing the length changes the Kv of the motor slightly, they should never really be cut as you have done.

That said, you have cut them, for a purpose of thicker wire??? nevermind.

So what to do now. I would strip the wires as suggested and you will know if you have cleaned them enough because normal 60/40 with resin will stick no problem.

Please ask first next time.

Leopard motors also use the windings as hook up leads on 4074's 5692's etc....

DON'T CUT THEM!!!

[ray schrauwen]

Got a pm that I should try to heat asprin tablets and dip the cabel in that. will try.

Never heard of this but it might work. Test it on the waste wire you cut off first.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Yep, Acid flux seems to help a lot.

[ray schrauwen]

Yeah it will work, and keep on working. Acid flux was never designed for electronics but, if you can make it work for you, all the better.

[ManuelW]

@ ray schrauwen:

Where do you have this information from: "Changing the length changes the Kv of the motor slightly" ???

Because now I have some successfull years in FE racing but never heard of that before, I also can't imagine how this could have a physical reason.

Best regards,
Manuel

[maxmekker]

thanks 4 the info, just wanted to replace the stiff wire( inded a part of the winding) with a softer, (same length) wire so I could better wrap it arround inside the hull. It's only a 20$ motor so I'm not devistated if it will not work, still a month ore so before the ice on the water will let go here in Norway, so I still have time to get another one. I will clean one by one and try again.
Thanks for the info folks.

[ray schrauwen]

Well, it's kind of basic. The wires cut are winding wires. Shorten them and the Impedence changes for each winding you cut. If not cut accurately enough, windings will differ slightly in impedence therefore not only giving you a different KV but, also take the windings out of balance as the original wire lengths before winding are set exactly the same.

I don;t know how much difference it will make or if it will be noticeable. I am mearly letting you know what is happenning when you cut lead wires that are actually winding wires.

If it was just normal 10 Guage extension wires it would not matter, that is not magnet wire.

[ManuelW]

Sorry but I just can't agree to that. I can agree, that the wires between motor and ESC's should have the same length. But what about normal wire and "magnetic" wire?
Hopefully its all just pure copper, beside the fact that its enamelled copper wire.

Best regards,
Manuel

[ray schrauwen]

Sorry but I just can't agree to that. I can agree, that the wires between motor and ESC's should have the same length. But what about normal wire and "magnetic" wire?
Hopefully its all just pure copper, beside the fact that its enamelled copper wire.

Best regards,
Manuel

Whatever, It is all copper but magnet wire, when in a bundle as in the windings of any BL motor, each wire does not conduct with the one beside it.

Prinz,

You are correct, the battery output can vary a great deal with temperature. Sometimes I forget that here is sunny southern California, the temperatures are usually a bit warmer than the rest of the country. Here I get 2.8 volts per cell from my A123 cells, but in colder climates you may only get 2.6 or even 2.5 volts per cell.


As per Lucien of Scorpion...

WBFAir,

If this is your first larger helicopter I would highly recommend that you do not get the HK-2221-6 motor. You would be much better off using the HK-2221-8 motor. Using the -6 motor would be like putting a blown Hemi in a Drivers Ed car! Don't get me wrong, the -6 motor is awesome for experienced pilots, but it is actually too much power for a newer helicopter pilot.

The -8 motor with a 12 tooth pinion gear is a great place to start, and when you get more comfortable with the helicopter, you can step up to a 13 tooth pinion gear for more head speed.

The Scorpion motors are Outrunner type motors, where the entire outer can of the motor rotates. The stator winding sit stil in the middle of the motor, and the magnets, which are glued to the inside of the rotor can, spin around the stator.

It is best not to cut the lead wires on the motors, since they are the actual wires that the motor is wound with. These wires are tinned at the factory to remove the insulation from the wire before the bullet connectors are soldered on. If you cut the wires, you have to individually re-tin anywhere from 32 to 40 wires per lead, which means a total of 96 to 120 wires that need to be tinned! If you miss one or two, this can lead to current imbalances in the motor, so you are better off leaving the motor leads alone.The ESC leads, on the other hand, can be easily shortened if needed.

Your battery ESC and BEC sound well matched for the -8 motor. The -6 motor can pull over 53 amps of current in very hard 3D maneuvers, but you will probably not be pushing it that hard for a while.

If you have not purchased the motor yet, I would go with the -8 model and keep your existing ESC.

Lucien

I'm done in this thread. It's not about theory really, of which i am right, sorry.