Castle 1717 motor with free water jacket

[Brushless55]

Yeah not surprising. The sound of people chatting was quite high when I talked to them and there were several interruptions during conversation. I'd say they are BUSY!

Still, it's worth waiting a week for such a deal IMO.


BTW- the flat spot in the fins will cause the O-ring to roll and will tear as you're slipping the can on. The fins hold the small o-rings in place. There's no way to hold them while they are being compressed during installation. They will just roll and tear.

Ask me how I know.

I will watch for that
and I just got off the phone with Castle, my motors are shipped and they are all the car motors!

[keithbradley]

I just got my motors...(2) 1520's (Hmm..what would one do with 2 identical motors)... and One 1717-1Y. The BOX for the 1717 says "1717-1Y 1580kv. However, open the box, and the motor inside is clearly marked "1717-1y 1500kv"....flat spots on the sides...holes in the ends.... I got the air version.

[FighterCat57]

I just got my motors...(2) 1520's (Hmm..what would one do with 2 identical motors)... and One 1717-1Y. The BOX for the 1717 says "1717-1Y 1580kv. However, open the box, and the motor inside is clearly marked "1717-1y 1500kv"....flat spots on the sides...holes in the ends.... I got the air version.

Yep. Everybody that ordered did. Just call them and they will swap it. Make sure to call though, they are quite backlogged on email.

I just got my 17's swapped out and am still waiting on a 1520 from 9/24. One of my orders was mixed up and another was completely overlooked. Email from them said they were shipped, when in fact, it hadn't been processed at all. They havin sum issues with their clearance orders...

BTW- also found out the 34-38 outrunner was a typo and doesn't exist. It's been removed from their order page...

[Jesse J]

making a cheap motor cooler for 1717 1Y

I just made me a $4 water jacket for the 1717 1Y. more if you don't have gasket material or silicone on hand. Less if you do and are not above robbing nipples.

Here are the ingredients:

Go to hardware store and get a 3" chunk of 2" diameter PVC pipe (have them cut it so ends are square ($0.20 at Ace).
If you don't have any, get some 1/16" gasket material (automotive store - super cheap and a must have for any boating supply cabinet (maybe $5)
Get some clear silicon caulk (another must) ($3-4)
and then the expensive part, two nipples.

I used 1/8" drill bit to make my water nipple holes and robbed a couple nipples off a spare water jacket and screwed em in - you could also use bits of K&S tubing. You have all the choices in the world on where to put your nipples - offset or inline.

Ok, so you have a total of 1/8" play around the can and that is where the gasket material comes in; you slip in two small strips (1' by .25") front and two in back on opposing sides (obviously not on the flat spots). This makes for a slightly snug, but not tight fit - basically centering motor in tube. Now, carefully rim the openings of front and back with your silicone and let set for 4hrs - make sure it makes a seal (once it is starting to cure, you can block one of the nipples and suck on the other to see if it is sealed). I made my "can" line up perfectly with the front of the motor. I ran it today in my 45" cat with an X447 prop on 6S2P and motor got warm but not hot, so I'd say she worked fine! I can post up some pics if people would like.

[FighterCat57]

I just made me a $4 water jacket for the 1717 1Y. more if you don't have gasket material or silicone on hand. Less if you do and are not above robbing nipples.

Here are the ingredients:

Go to hardware store and get a 3" chunk of 2" diameter PVC pipe (have them cut it so ends are square ($0.20 at Ace).
If you don't have any, get some 1/16" gasket material (automotive store - super cheap and a must have for any boating supply cabinet (maybe $5)
Get some clear silicon caulk (another must) ($3-4)
and then the expensive part, two nipples.

I used 1/8" drill bit to make my water nipple holes and robbed a couple nipples off a spare water jacket and screwed em in - you could also use bits of K&S tubing. You have all the choices in the world on where to put your nipples - offset or inline.

Ok, so you have a total of 1/8" play around the can and that is where the gasket material comes in; you slip in two small strips (1' by .25") front and two in back on opposing sides (obviously not on the flat spots). This makes for a slightly snug, but not tight fit - basically centering motor in tube. Now, carefully rim the openings of front and back with your silicone and let set for 4hrs - make sure it makes a seal (once it is starting to cure, you can block one of the nipples and suck on the other to see if it is sealed). I made my "can" line up perfectly with the front of the motor. I ran it today in my 45" cat with an X447 prop on 6S2P and motor got warm but not hot, so I'd say she worked fine! I can post up some pics if people would like.

Yeah, why not? I've seen quite a few home made cooling cans and as long as you get water around the motor... go for it!

You can also use a piece of tubing as a nipple, just drill at an angle and glue it in place.

[johnf]

Yeah my 1520 order came in as a 1512 yesterday.. Hope they have more 1520s laying around.

[ray schrauwen]

I not above robbing nipples.

.

Really....

[old guy]

who is paying for all of these returns for the wrong motors being shipped

[ray schrauwen]

They are.

[Brushless55]

I just made me a $4 water jacket for the 1717 1Y. more if you don't have gasket material or silicone on hand. Less if you do and are not above robbing nipples.

Here are the ingredients:

Go to hardware store and get a 3" chunk of 2" diameter PVC pipe (have them cut it so ends are square ($0.20 at Ace).
If you don't have any, get some 1/16" gasket material (automotive store - super cheap and a must have for any boating supply cabinet (maybe $5)
Get some clear silicon caulk (another must) ($3-4)
and then the expensive part, two nipples.

I used 1/8" drill bit to make my water nipple holes and robbed a couple nipples off a spare water jacket and screwed em in - you could also use bits of K&S tubing. You have all the choices in the world on where to put your nipples - offset or inline.

Ok, so you have a total of 1/8" play around the can and that is where the gasket material comes in; you slip in two small strips (1' by .25") front and two in back on opposing sides (obviously not on the flat spots). This makes for a slightly snug, but not tight fit - basically centering motor in tube. Now, carefully rim the openings of front and back with your silicone and let set for 4hrs - make sure it makes a seal (once it is starting to cure, you can block one of the nipples and suck on the other to see if it is sealed). I made my "can" line up perfectly with the front of the motor. I ran it today in my 45" cat with an X447 prop on 6S2P and motor got warm but not hot, so I'd say she worked fine! I can post up some pics if people would like.

Pics Jesse!

[ray schrauwen]

YOu can get o-rings to fit...

[carnalito]

What about aluminum tubing, coiling it around it would that work??

[ray schrauwen]

Yes but, copper would be better. I used to put heat shrink around those so they conduct heat better.

[Jesse J]

Yes but, copper would be better. I used to put heat shrink around those so they conduct heat better.

ya and then might as well goop it up with thermal paste before the heat shrink to help with the poor contact with the can.

the pvc is really super easy... I could even make some and sell em just add sillycone.

[K.R.Joye]

Anybody track down #of poles & Max Watt rating for the 1717s?

I posted some ?s on RCForums MFRs`Castle thread' but no answers yet.