Anybody got any pics of a seaking esc with 6 capacitors or know how to?
How to... add capacitors to an esc??? (seaking 180a)
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Heres how I did mine. I think you can also just tack one onto each existing cap. Just be sure to match the polarities. The new ones come w/ 5 caps. The 4th and 5th are split between connection points of 1 to 2 and 2 to 3.
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Here's a couple shots of mine. The final step was to heat shrink the capacitors together, I can't find the final pic though, sorry ...
IMG-20110830-00088.jpg IMG-20110830-00087.jpg
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Anytime, glad to help. Here are a couple more pics of the steps, hope they help..
Good luck !
IMG-20110830-00083.jpgIMG-20110830-00084.jpgIMG-20110830-00085.jpg
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Where did you get the card with loads of holes in?? What is it made of?Originally posted by Browning View PostAnytime, glad to help. Here are a couple more pics of the steps, hope they help..
Good luck !
[ATTACH=CONFIG]62531[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]62532[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]62533[/ATTACH]Everything that has a beginning, has an End
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It's just a small plastic circuit board that I get from Sayal hobbies http://www.sayalkits.com/CatalogContacts.asp. I'm sure you can get them from Radio Shack or The Source as well. Just about any electronics place sells them.
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Of course it isOriginally posted by Browning View PostIt's just a small plastic circuit board that I get from Sayal hobbies http://www.sayalkits.com/CatalogContacts.asp. I'm sure you can get them from Radio Shack or The Source as well. Just about any electronics place sells them.
Just bought 2 off ebay. I have a couple of escs to do. Thanks
Everything that has a beginning, has an End
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I did mine the same way as Tiqueman, except I used perforated board to provide the caps with a little more support.
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thats how Im doing my next set.Originally posted by driftah View Postyou can also get the same caps as factory off ose here and just parallel them off the original solder points underneath then shrinkwrap etc..easy peasy
Thats a good improvement as mine are easy to bump and push all over. Sometimes I knock intot hem and push the shrink wrap out of whack. eh, it was the first one I did. I saw the idea and liked how they were connected. It works well into you need to put it into a confined area (top to bottom) then the wires gave me some trouble from where I tapped into it. You lose a lot of flexibility. But, it works perfectly.Originally posted by JackBlack26 View PostI did mine the same way as Tiqueman, except I used perforated board to provide the caps with a little more support.
Actually Im setting my next one up like the new ones w/ 5.
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Here's two applications using the Etti cap board :
On a P-Sport FE 30 :
DSC02642.JPG
On an IB 34 ( wires attached on top of board to allow for hatch clearance - tricky to solder)
DSC02641.JPGDSC02640.JPGDSC02639.JPG
If you go this route, be sure to insulate the bottom of the board ( used G-10 & some electrical tape)
DSC02638.JPG2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
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Hi guys so I have the extra caps. I see no negative or positive signs on them just one wire is long the other shorter. Do they have a + and - or do you just keep each small wire in line and each long wire. BTW I have never added caps to anything before.....Everything that has a beginning, has an End
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There is a - on the side of the cap with the gray stripe. Usually, the gray stripe is always negative.
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