Swordfish cooling plate.

[785boats]

Does anyone know what the cooling plate set up looks like in the Swordfish 120A ESC. Are the fets actually touching a plate attached to the two cooling tubes?

A pic of a failed ESC would be great if you have one.
This is the ESC.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=hef-HB60120L

[kfxguy]

I'll take a pic of the other side when I get home

[785boats]

Thanks buddy.
But I'm sorry, it's this version with the two cooling tubes. Not the one I mistakenly linked to with just the one tube.
It may not really matter. The question is mainly, are the fets attached to a cooling plate which is part of the tubes. I assume that they are, but I'm asking the question for a guy over on R/C Groups.
I'm also interested, because I don't know.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Peter A]

Hi Paul
I have a (dead) 220 at home, I can take some pics tonight. I was looking at it the other day but cannot remember exactly.

[785boats]

Thanks Pete. But it's the 120A version we are looking at.
The 220A may be the same though. Don't wreck it if you don't have to.
How did you kill it anyway?

[oscarel]

If it's like the 300 lite they do not touch the fets.

[Peter A]

Thanks Pete. But it's the 120A version we are looking at.
The 220A may be the same though. Don't wreck it if you don't have to.
How did you kill it anyway?

It already has the wrap cut off it. It just died! I was practicing a heat race came around not at full throttle to the start line much the same as any race, hit the throttle, it went for a couple of secs then stopped. Nothing is burned and it didn't get hot, just stopped. It will not do anything anymore. Bummer because I could've got a couple of T-180's or ose 150 esc's for the the price. I am running a V2 T-180 with no problems. The SF esc always had a glitching problem (cutting in and out) from new which did go away with a change of radios for a time but would still happen occaisionally. Must have just been a dud! It is a 220A plus.

[785boats]

If it's like the 300 lite they do not touch the fets.

That's what it looks like in the end view photo. That's why the guy is asking the question I'm intrigued as well. How are the fets cooled?

Pete.
I've had a Seaking 180 do that too. Worked perfectly every time I used it. Then one day when I plugged it in...nothing.
No beeps & no go. It had never been cooked, or over amped. The capacitors still looked clean & flat on the ends. The BEC still powered up the RX & servo though.
Nothing lasts forever I guess.

[Peter A]

I took a couple of pics last night, those cooling tubes must work some how but they don't cool the fets directly like other esc's. I just noticed and you can see in the pics that the fets are 'bubbled' so at this point I'm thinking that that is the reason this esc don't go no more. I would struggle to want to spend the money on one of these again as it only did about 10-12 runs. I have run on the T-180 more than that without issue.



20160728_185750.jpg20160728_185800.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

The above cools likes Schulz's esc. They cool the thick copper pc board with attached hex brass tubes. The 240 I have is the same.

I use some of this glued to the fet tops with artic silver. You will need more brass nipples or you can use Arctic silver to glue in brass or copper tubing. Just cut properly to suit. You may need to sand down some of the conformal coating on the top of the FETs, I did.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/162092924475...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ive added it to a SF200 and a Castle Mamba XL2 with good results. You need to cut away a center channel in the plate for a SF 200 for the center motor wire. I'll also be adding it to my sf240 that I removed the shrink and rubber from.... messy job. I'll recoat the 240 with dp270 so it's a bit lighter.

Let's see a pic of the Castle... nope, not working on this tablet.. search my folder, it's on the first page.