I agree but the seaking would drain equal everytime. Always used lvc i have to bring the swordfish in before lvc hits
Anyone else think swordfish
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We've already told you, many people use these with good results, so you are also swaying people from using potentially successful setups based on a presumption that your experience is the end all be all, not to mention on a forum that was started and is run by somebody who sells these products. The way you went about it is less than tactful, especially when the problem is not likely the ESC at all. It is America, and this forum is a privilege, not a right. Speak your mind and share your experience, by all means, but you might want to be a little more tactful before you go ranting on 4 threads if you want to stay on here.Originally posted by Engelkefarm View PostBut my seaking 180 ran flawless. Guys last time i checked i live in america if i want to say some chinese trash is junk i will. Im helping other suckers avoid my problems. The only difference is i was using 5.5 bullets last year now using 8mmMy private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
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Different ESC's LVC is calibrated differently, some are more accurate than others, regaurdless, not many successful boaters are running them down to cut off.My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
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Are the individual voltages of each cell closely matched after a run? Do they take a long time to charge and balance?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
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Charge fine should drain the same. When i buy a product and say its defaulty and the owner says too bad thats a issue. Turnigys swell as well. Ill post the logger later. And im giving advice thats what the fourm is for buy a seaking 180. From experience
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So now what do i do buy another 180 and kiss the money i spent goodbye? Or is there a return policy on defective units
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Batteries puffin has absolutely NOTHING to do with your esc. Tell me how the esc is defective. Sounds more like you setup is defective. And/ or your batteries are junk. This is like blaming paper because you keep breaking your pencil lead.
"I'm a professional"
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Originally posted by Engelkefarm View PostCharge fine should drain the same. When i buy a product and say its defaulty and the owner says too bad thats a issue. Turnigys swell as well. Ill post the logger later. And im giving advice thats what the fourm is for buy a seaking 180. From experienceIt's sounds like you are beating your batteries to death. You shouldn't use more that 80% of their capacity during a run. Every time you knock the bottom out of them the cells degrade. The IR rises and the capacity is reduced.Originally posted by Engelkefarm View PostIndividual voltages are not the same. Packs are not even close after a run.
Originally posted by Engelkefarm View PostWhen i buy a product and say its defaulty and the owner says too bad thats a issue.Originally posted by Rumdog View PostBatteries puffin has absolutely NOTHING to do with your esc. Tell me how the esc is defective. Sounds more like you setup is defective. And/ or your batteries are junk. This is like blaming paper because you keep breaking your pencil lead.MODEL BOAT RACER
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Originally posted by Rumdog View PostBatteries puffin has absolutely NOTHING to do with your esc. Tell me how the esc is defective. Sounds more like you setup is defective. And/ or your batteries are junk. This is like blaming paper because you keep breaking your pencil lead.
"I'm a professional"
Time to look at your set-up...not the ESC.Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers
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I think you're missing the point. From everything you have described, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the ESC, it is not defective. Just because they charge fine at 5-20 amps, that by no means says they will drain the same at 180 amps. Your Atomics were just not up to the task. If your charger can read IR(internal resistance), you will likely find the Turnigy cells that are far off have IR #'s that are also off. Ideally they should be well below 5 for new packs, my Dinogy packs usually start off below 2. Quality packs have cells that are closely matched in IR, that is basically what dictates how fast they drain. Cheaper packs are not as closely matched, if they even make an effort to match them, on top of that, the IR changes slightly during the first few cycles as it "breaks in". Your ESC is not capable of draining individual cells more than others, and like I said, if llvc is set at 3.3v, and the cells aren't matched, that means some cells are going far below 3.3v. Once you compromise the packs, weather you brought them down too far, or they were just inferior cells with poor matching, they will continue to get worse. Once you puff a pack, even if the swelling goes down, it will likely continue to get worse. I ran a Genesis and a DF explorer, with the exact setup you describe with the 180, and I puffed a couple pairs of 3s, there just isn't enough there to run for more than a couple minutes. I got a Castle 240, and went to a 6s2p setup and it was far more reliable. What kind of current readings were you topping out with on the logging? How many Mah went back into the packs? The bottom line is that the ESC/motor is only a load to the combined cells, unless the data logging shows something abnormal then what those cells do while trying to feed the load has absolutely nothing to do with the ESC.Originally posted by Engelkefarm View PostSo now what do i do buy another 180 and kiss the money i spent goodbye? Or is there a return policy on defective units
Trust me, I've had my problems with a couple Swordfish's, but I have come to accept a certain inconsistency with most of these Chinese products. Just like the Turnigy packs, some fail early on possibly from poor quality control, and some perform great for a long period, but nothing you're saying points to the ESC.My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
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Please tell me how set up is defective. One esc runs fine one generates a bunch of heat please tell me how that is excusable? Setup is all new pretty much. I could rven run a x447 blade with the seaking. But wait...its not the swordfish right? Whats the point of having lvc if its not going to work. Lvc worked fine on seaking. Im stating facts you can say im wrong or your a expert but that will not change facts
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So what ever happened to your Seaking that you switched over to Swordfish??Mike Chirillo
www.capitolrcmodelboats.com
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