Question about Swordfish 200 esc

[runzwithsizorz]

Castle ESC's recommends using an rx battery for 4S and above. I have found no such warning for the Swordfish. Am I safe to assume I can power my receiver, and servo
with the Swordfish BEC on 5s, or even 6s?

[TINY]

Castle ESC's recommends using an rx battery for 4S and above. I have found no such warning for the Swordfish. Am I safe to assume I can power my receiver, and servo
with the Swordfish BEC on 5s, or even 6s?

Never had a problem with 6s but i add extra caps to all esc's other than the indistructable t180... serious t180 best bang for your buck part in FE hands down....

[Diesel6401]

Most of us experienced boaters including myself will dis-able the bec and use a rx pack above 4s. It's one of those tips and tricks you pick up along the way for reliabiltiy reasons. The higher the voltage the more work the esc has to do to lower the voltage and power the rx and servo which adds to excess heat. It is recommended. I do it on my swordfish esc's and on my Seaking 180 above 4s. I also don't run those esc's to their max voltage. I run no higher then 5s on my swordfish 200 and sekaing 180. Another one of those me things and I feel adds to relibility. On my CC ice 240 which is a 8s esc and I run on 6s, I do run my bec and it's adjusted for 6v output.

[runzwithsizorz]

Most of us experienced boaters including myself will dis-able the bec and use a rx pack above 4s. It's one of those tips and tricks you pick up along the way for reliabiltiy reasons. The higher the voltage the more work the esc has to do to lower the voltage and power the rx and servo which adds to excess heat. It is recommended. I do it on my swordfish esc's and on my Seaking 180 above 4s. I also don't run those esc's to their max voltage. I run no higher then 5s on my swordfish 200 and sekaing 180. Another one of those me things and I feel adds to relibility. On my CC ice 240 which is a 8s esc and I run on 6s, I do run my bec and it's adjusted for 6v output.

I was sort of assuming the on-board bec was kind of a separate circuit, but that makes sense. Other than reducing voltage, or filtering(?) doesn't this make the use of an external bec kinda moot?? Does the removal of the red wire somehow shut down the
on-board bec? Or is it because there is no draw, and hence no work? Am I correct in assuming there could be just a bit more run time by using an rx battery? BTW, I added 6s for emphasis, I always stay 1 S under the max of whatever esc I am using.
Perhaps it would be best if I explain what I am trying to set up now, WITH THE PARTS I HAVE NOW. With the goal of run time, I have a boat using the old version SF 200,(single cooling plate), a 1/4 scale servo pushing around a broad 6" rudder, a switch on
the receiver which DOES have a small draw, AND a vast array of nav. lights. My thinking was at only 4s 2p (13,000mah), I could *safely* power the rx, servo, and switch on them, and the lights,(which CAN run on volts up to 12), on their own battery.
OR, I could power the rx, servo,switch, and the lights on a battery, this limits my run time with the rx battery "I HAVE NOW". All of this will probably change when the money tree blooms this spring.

P.S. Diesel have you finished turning your sons room into a disco?

[Diesel6401]

I was sort of assuming the on-board bec was kind of a separate circuit, but that makes sense. Other than reducing voltage, or filtering(?) doesn't this make the use of an external bec kinda moot?? Does the removal of the red wire somehow shut down the
on-board bec? Or is it because there is no draw, and hence no work? Am I correct in assuming there could be just a bit more run time by using an rx battery? BTW, I added 6s for emphasis, I always stay 1 S under the max of whatever esc I am using.
Perhaps it would be best if I explain what I am trying to set up now, WITH THE PARTS I HAVE NOW. With the goal of run time, I have a boat using the old version SF 200,(single cooling plate), a 1/4 scale servo pushing around a broad 6" rudder, a switch on
the receiver which DOES have a small draw, AND a vast array of nav. lights. My thinking was at only 4s 2p (13,000mah), I could *safely* power the rx, servo, and switch on them, and the lights,(which CAN run on volts up to 12), on their own battery.
OR, I could power the rx, servo,switch, and the lights on a battery, this limits my run time with the rx battery "I HAVE NOW". All of this will probably change when the money tree blooms this spring.

P.S. Diesel have you finished turning your sons room into a disco?

On 4s2p shouldn't be an issue whatsoever, but depending on how many lights you hook up and everything else, It maybe worth wild to get a rx pack. Just check the voltage limits of your servo. Unplugging the red wire from the rx plug will disable it or a small 3" extension with the red wire removed for easy on/off functioning.


It's pretty much done, just need some lexan to cover it. Pretty sure I gave myself a seizure testing the flashing with the leds full bright. I think I am going to stick it in the bonus room, not his room lol... Safer that way!

[runzwithsizorz]

On 4s2p shouldn't be an issue whatsoever, OK, just what I wanted to hear. So how about 5s, for lord knows I can sometimes put the cart before the horse. but depending on how many lights you hook up and everything else, It maybe worth wild to get a rx pack.Therein lies the rub, for neither of the rx packs "I have now" have enough mah to give me all of the above for any amount of time. I have found a fairly light weight 6 volt 10,000mah battery for about $65, hmmm. Just check the voltage limits of your servo.The rx, and servo won't take much more than 6 volts. The lights however can easily take a fully charged 2s,(my preference). Unplugging the red wire from the rx plug will disable it or a small 3" extension with the red wire removed for easy on/off functioning.
The lights seem to work well enough with the 6 volts I have tested them with. But ya know there's always that deep down desire to see what they would look like at 8, or even 12 volts . which is why I wondering if I could power the rx with the esc's
bec on 4s, or maybe 5s. If not, I do have the ability to reduce my 2s batteries to 6 volt, and with my telemetry I can monitor. With lipo's on the switch side I'm thinking a lipo shield would be in order. I do so very much appreciate any, and all in-put, For I use
the info not only on this, but perhaps on some other wacky project down the line. Lord knows, just today I have learned quite a bit here from OSE members, was even given a homework assignment for crying out loud.


It's pretty much done, just need some lexan to cover it. Pretty sure I gave myself a seizure testing the flashing with the leds full bright. I think I am going to stick it in the bonus room, not his room lol... Safer that way!

As for YOU Diesel, just when you thought your little led project was over, I have found something you maybe interested in. Wouldn't it be neat to control your lights with not only sound, but with variable frequencies? And wouldn't it be neater still, if you
could control each individual color with it's own variable frequency? http://www.xkitz.com/catalog/light-o...nnel-p-28.html
Come on Diesel, you know you want it, Or maybe I'm the only wacky one.