How do you replace the caps on a swordfish 240hv?

[don ferrette]

If I could ask, what set up were you running that torched the stock caps? I've got 2 240HV's that I plan to run 8 and 10S on in hydros.

[millzee]

If I could ask, what set up were you running that torched the stock caps? I've got 2 240HV's that I plan to run 8 and 10S on in hydros.

Just a 1717 on 6s2p 5000mAh, it was only my 2nd run of the boat and it was set up incorrect and running wet, being a newbie I forgot to set my timer and after doing a few "just one more run's" I ended up running for 4m45s. The two caps on the inner row closest to the positive wire took most the punishment and the ends were 239f and had a slight discoloration.

[FRED]

Trouble with leaving them on is , bulky. Now it's apiece of cake to take off and replace the caps. Just do one at a time and look for the blue strip which indicates the polarity. Just use a small cutter and a soldering iron with a pointed tip and take your time. Use same #'s off the old ones when buying new.BTW, what size are the caps? You must have been drawing alot of amps due to running wet and too big a prop.Red wire, check to see if it is soldered on fully. Red wire will always or most always go first.-----**** Lipo power is correct, i just read what he typed.----**** Millzee-nice pictures- job well done-what size caps are those you put on?

[millzee]

When you done could you please upload few pictures, close ups if possible, thanks?

I'll put a few pic's up soon, my parcel didn't arrive as I thought it would so I guess it'll come tomorrow. So just to reiterate: I leave the stock caps on as is and add the etti cap bank, with no problems comming back to bite me in the a$$, yes/no.

[millzee]

Trouble with leaving them on is , bulky. Now it's apiece of cake to take off and replace the caps. Just do one at a time and look for the blue strip which indicates the polarity. Just use a small cutter and a soldering iron with a pointed tip and take your time. Use same #'s off the old ones when buying new.BTW, what size are the caps?

The stock caps on the sf240 are 63v 330uf, I can see how easy it is to remove and replace the top row but the lower row just doesn't have any room to get a solder or cutters in without taking the esc apart. see post #7

[FRED]

240hv

When i did mine, i soldered one cap stem like the inside stem and then did the other row so i wouldn't have go inside to solder. While i was soldering, i would strip covering off a 22 gauge wire and slip covering onto either + or - cap wire for insulation for insurance. The key is to leave one row cap wire alittle longer, just enough to get it soldered. I bought heat shrink at LHS. Each has they're own method and as long as it works, great. Use low heat so to not dislodge the others, i know sounds fussy.----**** I forgot, i moved led wires R and B out at an angle and staggered the caps.

[millzee]

When i did mine, i soldered one cap stem like the inside stem and then did the other row so i wouldn't have go inside to solder. While i was soldering, i would strip covering off a 22 gauge wire and slip covering onto either + or - cap wire for insulation for insurance. The key is to leave one row cap wire alittle longer, just enough to get it soldered. I bought heat shrink at LHS. Each has they're own method and as long as it works, great. Use low heat so to not dislodge the others, i know sounds fussy.

Probably the main question that keeps me wondering is if the caps are removed, and I just solder the cap bank to the +/- wires, would the current still get through to the esc ok or would the holes from the removed caps need to be joined somehow?
I'm sorry to drag this out but I'm new to all this and I just don't want to be throwing $250 in the bin because I didn't do something that everyone else thinks is obvious.

[FRED]

240hv

Take a look at the ETTI bank showing where they soldered wires onto. BTW, are your connectors 8mm? TTYL

[LiPo Power]

If you add etti cap board to the battery wires it will work exactly the same way as the original caps. They are sitting at the battery power input but they are just solder nicely to the board for proper look. That way they do not take much space....

Probably the main question that keeps me wondering is if the caps are removed, and I just solder the cap bank to the +/- wires, would the current still get through to the esc ok or would the holes from the removed caps need to be joined somehow?
I'm sorry to drag this out but I'm new to all this and I just don't want to be throwing $250 in the bin because I didn't do something that everyone else thinks is obvious.

[millzee]

If you add etti cap board to the battery wires it will work exactly the same way as the original caps. They are sitting at the battery power input but they are just solder nicely to the board for proper look. That way they do not take much space....

cool, I think I've just got to stop thinking and analysing and just start doing, at the moment I'm waiting for the postie like a kid waiting for xmas, been looking out the window like a mad man, I noticed someone signature the other night, something about there's a fine line between hobby and mental illness, I think I know what that means now!

[millzee]

Damn these Etti 63v 1000uf cap banks are huge, I now understand what you guy's have been saying about space saving, I think the stock caps are gunnu have to go but I'll have a play around tonight and see what I can come up with.

[DISAR]

I just had this idea, don't know if it's right or wrong. How about leaving the "legs" of the existing capacitors so cutting only the actual capacitors, and soldering the new capacitors to the existing legs? Rubycon ZL or ZLH series are good.
For the ETTI cap board I think that you can use some pieces of extra wire for +- to solder the board to the esc +- wires as close to the esc as possible.

[millzee]

Well after all that thinking I've finally done it, try it and it worked and didn't catch fire yet( not on the bench anyway). I ended up removing all the stock caps and attached the cap bank to the + & - as suggested, I tried to make sure I didn't cold solder the joint as much as possible and at one point had the board a tad hot and a little smelly but all in all, it's not pretty but it works. Thank you to everyone that helped me through this simple little task, I'm sure I will be able to do them now without wanting you to hold my hand

[FRED]

Now you can see what i typed about laying it out flat and being bulky, my hat tips to your work. Those are monsters and you made the best of it. Ok, since you got that mastered, now make a 90 degree hookup for your connectors. Got an idea; oh,no,where the connectors come up make the wire longer and have them come forward over the esc and angle them out alittle and forward. Now if you can do what you did, this would be a piece of cake for you.

[millzee]

Now you can see what i typed about laying it out flat and being bulky, my hat tips to your work. Those are monsters and you made the best of it. Ok, since you got that mastered, now make a 90 degree hookup for your connectors. Got an idea; oh,no,where the connectors come up make the wire longer and have them come forward over the esc and angle them out alittle and forward. Now if you can do what you did, this would be a piece of cake for you.

thanks mate
Gee, great idea, I'll make some up later, that'll take a lot or pressure of the bends.