I recently purchased a product from MG Chemicals that seems to be doing the job. Albeit it's only been in service for a short amount of time, it seems to be doing the job well.
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Woo-hoo...mine are "out for delivery". Can't wait to get home from work tonight. [emoji1687]
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better placeComment
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Mine arrived today. With only a few pictures in this thread to go by, I thought that the four screws would be aligned to use the holes from the electric fan. Looking forward to the strap solution.Comment
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I just found a seller on eBay offering a 3D printed XLX2 mount (in several color choices). Technically, it's designed for mounting an XLX2 in a Traxxas X-MAXX...but, it probably wouldn't be too difficult to grind off the bottom-side rail-mounting (those with an X-MAXX will know what I'm talking about...for those that don't, check out the link (below), and look at the photos).
Instead of using zip-ties to hold the mount to the X-MAXX's chassis brace/battery-hold-down, 2 of the slots (on each side) could be used to hold the ESC & water block, while the third could hold the other end of the ESC. Using a Dremel, three channels could be created on the bottom, to "connect" the three pairs of zip-tie slots, then use longer reusable zip-tie. As for mounting the base into a boat, once the zip ties were in the proper positions, could epoxy the ESC mount into the hull. Here's the link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Castle-Crea...-127632-2357-0
Not only would the ESC & water block be "solidly" mounted in place...but, should the ESC and/or water block need to be serviced/replaced, doing so would be extremely simple - just 'unlatch' the zip-ties, remove the ESC/water block, do whatever needs to be done, put both back in place, and tighten down the zip-ties.
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Guys,
The four screws are to secure the top and bottom enclosure together. There are no threaded holes in the Castle heat sink and it's not thick enough to tap and thread. As I said before we will work on a 3D printed cage to secure the cooler using the 6x- OE holes.
If your kit did not come with instructions, you can read them here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/27...f?v=1633373035Tyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WRComment
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Would this thermal adhesive tape hold the plate in place? It's listed in the instructions.
https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Cond...tronics&sr=1-8Comment
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Thanks, again, Tyler & StumpFab...they look outstanding. In the meantime, I'm curious about a couple things.
First, regarding the 4 screws building the upper & lower parts together, what hex is suppressed to be used? 2mm was too small, and 2.5mm too large. I'm assuming the hex is imperial, not metric. Informally, I don't currently have any imperial-sized hex wrenches (technically, I do, but none that small...mine are auto mechanic sizes). I did discover that a T10 (TORX) fit perfectly...but, I'm sure everyone would prefer using the correct imperial sizing hex, as opposed to a TORX driver. So, what is the correct hex size?
Second...and, this is just an idea/suggestion/inquiry...but, for the silicone gasket (essentially, a giant, thin O-ring), is it best to leave it as-is? Or, would it be better/smarter to (very carefully) remove it, give it a light coating of O-ring grease, and reinsert it into the gasket channel?
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Gabe is 'Merican, and as such, uses standard threads unless someone holds him at gun point and says tap it metric.
Or at least that's been my experience in the past.
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)Comment
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Not talking about the threads...talking about the hex. I know it's imperial. I was asking what hex size?Originally posted by fweasel View PostGabe is 'Merican, and as such, uses standard threads unless someone holds him at gun point and says tap it metric. Or at least that's been my experience in the past.
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Gabe includes a standard 10-32 SHCS. Wrench size is 5/32. Google is your friendOriginally posted by Panther6834 View Post
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Thank you. [emoji1687]Originally posted by longballlumber View Post
I know I should probably have 'tiny' imperial size hex wrenches, but I don't. I haven't had any need of them, as all my RC stuff (well, except for some crawler wheels), as well as my bicycle, uses metric. I do have several "oddball" hex wrenches (if I can find them) that have come with Ikea furniture packages, water faucets, etc...maybe there's a 5/32" among them.
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better placeComment
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It's a 4-40 screw in each corner. 3/32" hex driver is standard for 4-40's.
There is no need to grease the O-Ring. It's not sliding or rolling over something. It's a simple compression by the top cover. If you wish to know more you can read the Parker-Hannifin O-ring guide. It is the bible for O-rings.
https://www.parker.com/Literature/O-...ORD%205700.pdfTyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WRComment
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Yes you can use HD heat shrink to hold the cover on.Originally posted by zooma View PostTyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WRComment
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Something to remember is that the bottom of the ESC acts for cooling also. You will notice some fins cut on the bottom sides. Covering the entire assembly in heat shrink may reduce the total cooling provided by the aluminum ESC case.
With that said I suspect it wouldn't hurt, just providing additional info.Comment
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