Lord have mercy. Good luck
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im surprised at the Etti, tho I did have a 120 go away quick but believed it to be my fault. Do you run cap banks?Originally posted by RuntheraceAMC View PostComment
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Just an update to this thread: I sent the Swordfish 240's back to the person I bought them from. They checked the data logger on one and it said I pulled 310amps and 6000 watts which is crazy because I wasn't hammering the throttle.
It's also crazy that a sf240 craps out in 30 seconds while I can drop a raider 150 in there and it runs fine (albeit at 125 degrees).
Ultimately the truth is I built the boat with the CG too far forward so I stripped it down, ordered the proper motor mounts and rebuilt the boat moving the CG back 2 inches. handles much better and runs dryer.
Still noticed it is running too wet under power though. These mystic hulls with the German built drives seem to have issues with the range of drive angle in that it's too much down angle. I shaved down the pedistals and now the drive angle is near neautral. Crossing my fingers this is the last piece of the puzzle to an awesome running boat. And my seaking 180's with cap banks are due in today.
It's like Christmas morning!Comment
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I'm getting to where I don't trust any data logging on anything.
We recently had a castle say that a 1950 kv motor was turning 41000+ rpm on 4s. Um......what?
I had a high end speedo report over 1000 amps on a setup that we run on a Seaking 180 all the time. Again.........what?
I've never had luck with the SF. I have a pair of 300 I can't figure out. I never gotto the data logging. There's a 120 and a 220 in my boxes somewhere too. Gave up.
The old Schulze were next level but they're not even servicing them anymore.Noisy personComment
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The lack of esc solutions in this hobby is astounding. The raider 150 is very capable, seakings are solid but have their limits, castle but they aren't waterproof and then you have to jump up to MGM. Makes it very hard to have confidence that a new build is going to ever run right.Comment
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It gets worse the high you get in cell count. There just are no options. Well, not without dropping a lot of coin. Even then, the options are hit and miss. The units are either perfect and bullet proof or they don't work at all. Not working will cost you at least 4 weeks repair which is a pretty large percentage of your season in the north. What do you do? Buy two super expensive speedo just in case? Frustrating as hell.
Nobody ever wants to hear it but all the bad recommendations for setups have led us here. Guys do what someone on some forum said would work. Everyone is an expert these days. Guys that have done it for decades through all the iterations of electric tech, guys that are proving it on courses, and winning championships, are labeled "old school". New guy blows a bad setup to bits and wants a warranty replacement. Heck, he needs it. "Who told you that would work?" Technicians that build them don't really know when a setup is insane. Usually. Companies got out of making boat ESC.Noisy personComment
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I'm looking st the eLogger data log system instead of the internal ESC logger. I'm getting what appears is "close enough" data, but I really don't like having to disconnect my motor! Those connectors wear out and then you have a whole new variable to work/debug through... The eLogger uses a magnetic RPM sensor that seems would be much more reliable. I agree about ESC manufacturers, especially marine units. They are not using the latest techniques that people have discovered regarding firmware programming. Did you know by using AFW mode, you can drop the heat of an ESC 5X during part throttle? Seems these manufacturers want people to blow them up so they buy more...Comment
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