No water in the hull. Didn't blow on the lines
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I just tested the 4074 and 4092 with an old 30a esc and a 2 cell and both ran fine. So i definitely blew the esc.Comment
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That ESC stuttering is like it got wet the way it went back to normal for a bit but maybe just got hot.
Did you blow other ESC's in this? And how fast would you say it is moving?Comment
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I'm not sure I understand your question but yes I blew a raider 150. As far as how fast it goes. 5s 49-54 depending on the prop and 57-63 on 6s.
If you meant how fast did the motor go on that 30a esc I just tested it in my garage on a 2 cell. No stuttering like beforeComment
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No I was just looking for how the hull is running, wet or anything. You are not far off of where I feel it should be. I would think 70 on 6s.Comment
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Well, I guess cleaning things up is first. it'll give you a chance to redo the cooling lines. We will get it sorted outComment
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Length from end of the sponson to bow is 33. Total length 37"
Cog is 10"" from the end of the sponson so it should be running dry.Comment
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Well I need to order an esc though. I was thinking just a seaking 180 and run the prop set up more conservativeComment
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Are the guys having good results with the new ones? The old ones would have likely been ok but only just ok. How bad is the smell?Comment
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Don't get discouraged it's a learning curve building your first boat. We've all had our electronic meltdowns. One thing I noticed is you have a bulge pump in the boat and you put in a water RESISTANT esc, not sure how wet it gets inside the hull but it should be dry or maybe a few drops after a run. In my 32" fightercat I run a tp4060 1720kv with an m445 and it has blown the heat sink clean off a T-180. Motor pulls over 200 amps though, I'm sure the 1300kv pulls less amps but they are still a beast of a motor. Like srilash stated the seaking or turnigy might be "ok" but you may benefit from an eagle tree or some type of data logging to see how many amps your actually pulling. It's a fine line of bringing a boat in and having high temps, or not bringing it back soon enough and having a smoke show
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I have had great luck with the new v3 models I have 4 of them. The only issue I've ever had is burning them up from pushing them over their limit lolOriginally posted by srislash View Post
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It happensOriginally posted by Mxkid261 View PostI have had great luck with the new v3 models I have 4 of them. The only issue I've ever had is burning them up from pushing them over their limit lolComment
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The problem is there are not a lot of better options than the SK180 or raider 150. Fluid warned me about unpredictable results from swordfish esc's and I didn't realize ETTi's were not waterproof as well as just being plain finicky.
So I'm left with this dilemma, do I make another costly mistake and buy another esc for this set up? Or go a different direction?
The goal is reliable speed and I am beginning to believe I can't have both with a single engine. Think about it. If I want to go to 8s I have to buy a HV esc for at least $150 then a new motor for $100 and add some batteries. Or I could buy two raider 150's and another 4074 1800kv to match the one I have and run a couple 442's or 542's and be super conservative but fast on 5 and 6s. And I will have spent the same money but have a twin engine boat and use the same batteries I have nowComment
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I see where your at, the boat now basically has to be gutted so why not. Well this proposal is pretty much what I have going on right now but in a Daytona hull. You have that DF which is sooo nice and easy to put twins in. They really have nice accessComment
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I just priced out everything I would need to switch this boat to a twin setup and its $420.
Vs another $200 esc to get a 55-60 mph boat or $300 to get a new esc and motor then go by batteries to get me to 8s.
I think i know which way this should goComment
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