Seeking 120 a little hot

[Mxkid261]

Since this has been dragged off topic (Jim will forgive me-it's a D19 thang)-

My V3 has 2 water inlets - How'd that happen ?

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Well I know what Im doing this morning!! Thanks for the pictures hope you dont mind me stealing your idea!!

[Mxkid261]

Guys..it wasn't the cooling block..it was the caps..so if I were to cut off the inline ones..how should the be replaced..and should more or bigger be added?? Again..This was the inline caps on the positive and negative power wires..not the ones actually on the dpeedo block

Definitely add more/bigger, like a nice bank of 1000uf ones! My t-180 has the 2 rubycon 390uf on the little diode board thing and then 4 more after that, they could be bigger but they do their job!!

[rayzerdesigns]

what if you tok of the little diode board..and just soldered on to wires

[tlandauer]

what if you tok of the little diode board..and just soldered on to wires

That should do it.
( post #4) :-)
Happy L-D Weekend guys !

[rayzerdesigns]

I see you wire them it looks like on a board..any pics of how?? or parts

[Jim Osborne]

I first use 1 - 1000 cap as the ones that were on there were 2 - 450"?" in series. But just the one got hot just at partial throttle on the bench. So switched it out for 2 - 1000 and now works fine.
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[Jim Osborne]

On Tony's note I have added extra cooling to a 180 for 6s use with a 1717 castle motor. I know I'm at the max for this esc, but it works and gets warm to hot. I have also added 2 - 1000 caps as well.
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[properchopper]

This T-180 V1 has been used and abused for years in my P-Mono (Jim, you've thrown this in for me "back in the day") . The Ettie board has a well thought out bank of smaller caps which are quick to charge/dump. A tad tricky to solder on & do get a tad toasty in my application but I wont argue with long term success.

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