A Little Disappointed with the T-180 v3 water inlet/outlet setup

[properchopper]

Great idea, is there enough meat in between to run a drill bit down through instead of crushing the tube to fit in between the fins?

I used 3/16 O.D.tubing ; when flattened a bit to fit in the fin groove it still has plenty of internal flow capability (it's actually larger than the stock barb hose fitting) + this goes into a 65+ mph hydro which has tons of pickup pressure from the rudder pickup. I'm not worried by any slight (if any) flow restriction - these setups rarely get hot under race conditions anyway

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I considered drilling out the fin area but, even with my drill press the margin for error was a little too worrisome

you can see the butt of a 3/16" bit if you look closely

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Mike, I was fresh out of copper and/or silver tubing

[TheShaughnessy]

Just given you a hard time

[T.S.Davis]

Silver tubing? I could use some of that for other things.

What about some thermal compound in there Tony?

I ran one of these a few weeks ago with no extra cooling and had no issues. Of course the water was 38 degrees so means exactly....jack.

[properchopper]

I'll probably just pot the tubing in place with some carefully applied JB. Should act OK as a thermal transfer agent. Again, my intention wasn't to provide additional cooling but only to re-direct the output line back towards the motor. That this mod appears to provide more cooling potential is just a free gift of the design. The stock single in/out of the ESC might be all that's needed - maybe the critical components inside that benefit the most from cooling might just be under the stock cooling path. I'm not going to open it up to find out

[sundog]

Tony, after studying your pics I think I would just pry/snap/break off that last fin and JB weld some tubing in its place - that has the same i.d. as the stock nipple. It is a shame about the new cap placement, but then again there's not much I don't modify anymore...

[properchopper]

Tony, after studying your pics I think I would just pry/snap/break off that last fin and JB weld some tubing in its place - that has the same i.d. as the stock nipple. It is a shame about the new cap placement, but then again there's not much I don't modify anymore...

I thought of removing (Dremel cut-off) the last cooling fin & cleanly JB'ing a tube in place. What I have pictured took all of 2 minutes to vice-squeeze a flat area on the tubing to make it tightly fit in between the fins. Again, this wasn't intended to add cooling (which it probably will) but to re-direct the water path.

[sundog]

Haha, no I realize what you did probably works just as well and took less time than cutting off a fin (which I know was just to re-direct water in a tight situation) but just seeing the squeezed tubing gives me the willies.. it's all in the perception, so I would have to fix that. I surely don't mean to diss your good work - just pointing out a weakness in me!

[TheShaughnessy]

Silver tubing? I could use some of that for other things.
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Silver has slightly better thermal transfer characteristics then Copper. But, since the intention of this modification is simply to redirect the flow of water and NOT to provide additional cooling the point is somewhat moot.

Tony and I have discussed water cooling/chilling/ air cooling/heatsinks several times so I was just poking a lil.

I'm sure the left over scrap brass tubing is far more convenient then making a purchase just for copper or silver tubing

Looks like I never hit enter after I typed this yesterday

[Fella1340]

The sticker price on silver tubing would be a bit of a shocker! Pure silver is a great conducter but way to soft. Diamond is even a better conducter and no worries about the it being to soft either. Still searching for a supplier though!:-)

[TheShaughnessy]

Yes I think diamond tubing would be the ultimate. Still time left for the KBB build competition.

[properchopper]

Finally installed the T-180 with the flow-redirect mod. Did the trick (with the help from a tad bit of JB Qwick.)

This seems to be the need if the ESC is in front of the motor.

[FWIW the last few Neu motors I ordered have gone back to the "can't shorten & solder 'em" motor wires which are extensions of the stator windings. The ends were tinned 'tho.]

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Another new "feature of the T-180 V3 is the on/off switch. Ordinarily I would just cut & splice the wires together but this is a customer's boat so I included it tucked out of the way

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[tlandauer]

Happy New Year Tony!
Always love your creative ways of building, looks awesome!
Yes, my re-built Neu is the same way, wires are extensions from the stator windings.