Keith, any reason you placed the servo this far forward?
I just copied the way Grimracer laid out the UL-1. Also the stock UL-1 Steering rod assembly will bolt up easily with minor adjustment. The 440 rod that I used is stiffer than you think (very little deflection). I can always move servo if I am not happy with its location.
Jan, that is the preferred mounting position. Getting the CG forward is critical on this hull and putting the servo near the transom would be counter productive..
I agree! The reason of my question is I always wondered about bending push rods.
My hulls are either too "small" or huge... on the small ones the servo is always in the back anyway due to crammed quarters and the huge hulls don't care where the servo sits... therefore I place it close to the transom and use a thick push rod (just in case).
Fill pin holes using spakling paste before painting hull. First Scuff hull using Red Scothbrite pad. Then apply spakling paste using bare hands rubbing over pin holes to fill them...wipe off excess. Afterwards when spakling has dried sand off dried spakling using Red Scothbrite pad. Shoot primer then "DRY SAND" using 320 grit paper.
Here's hull with black guide coat sprayed over two thick wet coats of 2K High Build Urethane primer.
My automotive urethane paint job has a few flaws (minor runs and orange peel). So I decided to color sand the paint using 1500 then 2000 grit paper. I will have to hand polish the paint afterwards to get a near perfect glossy paint job. Meguiars recomended their new 105 Ultra Cut polish for fast hand polishing. All this paint finishing is a learning experience for me all over again.
I will be painting a different windshield than the traditional SS21 windshield. This will take lots of thought.
My big 580L 2100kv motor came in yesterday. I will install it when I complete the paint. Brian Buaas said hull will be VERY fast using m445 prop with this big motor. The extra weight of this motor should help keep hull planted on water.
Narrower ride pads will be fabricated using .093" or .125" Black G10 fiberglass. I will have to experiment with their location by tacking them in place using 3M contact spray adhesive before run.
While my wife is at work I used her stove top as a work table...she will never know.
Very nice workmanship, those glass hulls are a pain in the ass to paint. I will be going through the same process with a Dark Horse Shovel 26 purchased from Raptor 347
Paint is not completed because of high humidity and hotter temperatures. Whenever the weather matches up with my MID temp reducer I will finish up painting this hull.
Here's picture of big 580L (2154kv) motor test fitted into hull. Motor sits very low in hull. Hydra 240 ESC will be mounted crossways in front of motor.
Looks good, I am interested to see how that 580L runs in that hull... I just picked up one of these hulls today,, thinking about UL-1 power system.. Nice hulls for sure!
Nothing like keeping you lipos warm and your prop wet!!
Job and rainy weather has put a damper on this build, but finally finished paint. After applying 4 coats of White Acrylic Urethane I color sanded paint using 1500grit then progressing to 2000grit paper. The Harber Freight 3" mini buffing kit (part # 95394) made quick work of polishing using Meguiars 105 compound then finishing up using Meguiars 205 compound. I can now assemble the hull...LSH?
Paint is not completed because of high humidity and hotter temperatures. Whenever the weather matches up with my MID temp reducer I will finish up painting this hull.
Here's picture of big 580L (2154kv) motor test fitted into hull. Motor sits very low in hull. Hydra 240 ESC will be mounted crossways in front of motor.
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